Nismo280zEd

lol when i get the knack of it i'll charge ya a nominal fee and rebuild em for houston area Z guys. Alot cheaper than anyplace around. -Ed

Yes, I did get my camera back and took some more pics today as i got the block and head in today. I can't really host them though right now, if somebody has some space I'll be glad to email whatever size you want. The color is a little off in the pics, but i think it shows the gloss fairly well. Keep in mind i didn't bother making it extremly smooth in there. Also, if you try to buy in gallons from boaterisland there are only white. The quarts have allt he colors. I used laguna blue I think. I'll check the can Friday, been sick lately haven't been able to do a whole lot. -Ed let me see if this link works.. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=636

Yes, I did get my camera back and took some more pics today as i got the block and head in today. I can't really host them though right now, if somebody has some space I'll be glad to email whatever size you want. The color is a little off in the pics, but i think it shows the gloss fairly well. Keep in mind i didn't bother making it extremly smooth in there. Also, if you try to buy in gallons from boaterisland there are only white. The quarts have allt he colors. I used laguna blue I think. I'll check the can Friday, been sick lately haven't been able to do a whole lot. -Ed

I haven't tried clearing it, however when I spray my g/f's front clip, I'll spray a little clear on it and see what happens, my guess is it will crinkle but ya never know. Further more, ZR responds very well to PPG DBC/DBU clear. Sticks quite nicely. -Ed

It is not necessary to clear the paint, It's a one part polurethane, like a built in single stage car paint. Except much shinier. I took some pics tonight, but left my camera at the house, I'll try to post tomorrow after work.

been there done that and more. I've never had a slave cylinder blow, ya'll must not be keeping the fluid clean or something. they should be flushed yearly as hydraulic fluid attracks moisture, here in houston mine gets flushed about every 4-6 months depending on usage and rain. -Ed

Actually my whole car is in ZR right now, so I'm gonna do a test patch on the hood to see how it adhears to ZR, I'm sure it will be fine. Not sure if it floats, haven't made it to the lake yet. I'll keep you posted lol. -Ed It does adhear very well to tie coat primer and por-15 and reg paint with the proper interlux primer, I have tried that already.

Ok i'm coming up short hear using the search feature and it's becoming agrivating. It appears from what little research i can find that the 280z 5spd uses the synchro rings for all gears? I just need verification on this. Also does this follow suite for the ZX tranny? I'm also needing a source for rebuild information, the tolerances, torque specs, etc. As My factory manual has been missing for over a year now. Thanx alot guys. -Ed

Sprayed it, and thinned it very very little maybe like 10% with some lacquer thinner. I used Interlux Brightside. It's a super high gloss, i'm really surprised. -Ed

Well it's official, I've kept it kinda underwraps but it's now time to let out my project details. I'm completed the test patches using boat paint on my car. And it's absolutely remarkable. I'm going to go ahead and paint the whole car, I'll load up some teaser pictures in a couple dayz. It's about 20 a quart 70 a gallon. And the primer is a little less. Plus no clear required. Similar to the other paint thread started on here except it's a one part polyurethane. Dries really hard but still flexable. You can even go two part if you desire. -Ed

lol so many different opinions. Just wanted to update on my most recent find, ZR holds up pretty decent to hydraulic fluid, it didnt' dissolve the paint, just lifted it from the metal where my leak was, came up in big chunks like the por-15 did. -Ed

May God be with you in your days of tuning. I switched back over to a custom fuel injection setup running off MS. My car runs like a 911 on an open track. I honestly don't know why I didnt' do this sooner. I might loose "cool" points from straying from the triples, but it's alot more reliable, better milege, and I can change the fuel map in 2 seconds as opposed to rejetting and tunning in my drive way for a couple hours. But best of luck to you guys. Your brave. -Ed

well the whole motor is out of the car being rebuilt now, maybe once it's running stable

well i'm running mine about 6" after the air filter on a custom CAI I welded up. I have no problems thus far, however my milege is still low, maybe this could be a possible reason?

hmm for some reason i thought the N42 head yielded a higher compression. What's the casting number on the old maxima heads? That's the head I was thinking of I guess. Yeah I finished building my back up motor last night, it'll go in the car sometime this weekend. When I'm not workn' on the two broken maximas, and doing a brake job on a pontiac. As for my motor build up I want to rebuild it a little stronger with out getting into custom parts. I had some sort of ring failure on the #5. It didn't completley fail cause theres no scaring or scratching in the wall, or carbon trail or anything. It looks identicaly to all the others on the top as well as the cylinder wall. I think it might be something minor with the ring. At anyrate i won't know for sure till i pull it all apart. Does anybody here run Moly rings? the harder rings? I just want a really reliable motor. In the next coming years i'm gonna have to start drivn' it around 80-90 miles each day for my University Degree. I need to have it rock solid for then. Thanx for the help -Ed

Ok so I was always under the impression that the N42 head compared to an N47 head was a higher would yield higher compression due to the smaller quench areas on the heads. Well my motor blew a ring about two weeks ago and I bought an old Z motor off a member here that went to V8. I'd been using it for parts and i thought it was and N47 motor and head. However, Now that i have my head on it and new gaskets, etc etc. I was outside scrubn' it down to paint the block, when the grease came off it read N42 not N47. I couldn't believe my eyes. So I ran over to the old head I pulled off it N42. So am I getting excited for no reason? I though this motor was a standard 77 280 motor. However the pistons looked different than mine too. They have notches cut out in each piston towards the front (timing cover) of the motor. No numbers on the pistons though. So basically I'm asking the difference between N42 heads and blocks compared to N47 heads and blocks. -Ed

Mike you need to fix the vacumn leak first, that completly fucks up Megasquirt. -Ed

So then you could use the VG30et pistons with the stock 280 rods and have a stronger setup? I'm assuming the bore is bigger on the VG30et pistons. -Ed

What's the difference between a ka24 piston and an l28e? I thought you could use the l28e pistons with the 240 rods to achieve a 10.5:1 compression engine roughly -Ed

I was getting bad feedback from the coil on my car, had to move the wire for it to spark right, happened after like 3 weeks or 4 weeks of driving it. Also the large connector on the back of my MS broke some solder connections was giving me funky signals.

my block doesn't need retaping i used molly on them when i rebuilt the head about 1 1/2 years ago, but the head has only seen like maybe 2k miles since then. The difference between a stud and a bolt is they way they tighten. Head studs are designed to stretch when torqued that is what holds them in the head so they don't back off along with the washer. Conventional bolts are designed to stretch, they use the nut combined with a lock washer to stay tight.