Nismo280zEd

I'm using the GM sending units for intake temp and water temp. Now I would assume there are some gauges I could use that work with the GM sending units. Does anybody know of certain vehicles? or If some generic gauges such as autometer will work? I'm trying to avoid having two sending units in the thermostat housing. -Ed

look like they are off a motorcycle, honda maybe? Sweet design, can you imagine some blow threw triples up there!? crazy.

the link you showed has 4oz for 17 bucks, That's quite pricey compared to normal paint. A quart of ppg usually runs about 30 bucks. and that's 32oz. However if you have a source to obtain it in bulk cheaper, It does sound interesting. -Ed

lol the way every good BOV should be, Scaring little kids lol

can't say that i have, I'm still trying to get the data logger to work to analyze driving data. -Ed

Well still tweaking. Car was running pig rich cut map by 20% twice then had to increase it by 10%. Tweaked accel settings slightly. Tried to tune with Lm1 but i blew out the 02 bung the other night, so it'll be a little longer till i can post a tuned map. but if anybody wants my roughed in one, let me know. -Ed

You are a privledged man, I've never seen anybody weld that good in person. I'm jealous. -Ed

looks pretty good, make sure you weld it shut, if you don't feel that confident that it is completly sealed use marine grade fillers as they are waterproff. DO NOT USE BONDO unless you want to do this again in 4-5 years. Once i weld all my bare metal I use a product Ernie turned me onto "Zerorust" I paint it by brush with that stuff, let it dry good, then "scuff" it with 80 grit so the filler sticks, then i use a marine fiberglassed re-inforced body hair putty. Basically waterproof filler with glass mat mixed in. This stuff is super hard to sand though so don't go globing it on. Put it over all the weld areas as this is like laying fiberglass over it to seal it. This will ensure no water will come through your paint from the backside again. Once you use that stuff, use a sanding filler (waterproof) or atleast water resistant. depending on your money budget. Sand that with 80 grit to get the major hi's and low's (cross sanding). then hit it with 180 grit, then primer, then 220, 400 paint, clear. BTW the nasty black guey stuff came stock. It was a problem when i welded up the same area on mikes car (on3go). -Ed

sounds sweet, you running the MS now? got mine working tonight -Ed

you could do like i did and actually make your own relay and fuse boards and re-wire everything how you want. It's no harder than installing a kit, just a little extra work on making the boards. -Ed

on the 280z it is VERY easy to put the dizzy down on the wrong tooth, jump it back one and try again. -Ed

yeah i got it working, i feel like an idiot. It was my vacumn bottle, it hase a one way check valve in it from when i ran carbs to keep my brake function. I reversed the connections so that it doesn't use the check valve, works fine now, revs like a mean Z should! Thanks for all the help guys. -Ed I'll post my maps after i tweak them, it smelled a little lean top end.

I'm still havin trouble, I can get the idle good, the VE map looks good, i hit the throttle it goes up no coughing back fire, smooth, then i let off... and it jumps into the 80-100 kpa zone and usually can't recover and dies. Is this my vacumn dizzy screwing things up for me again? EDIT: plugged vacumn for dizzy same problem

so did you get this working?

Well if your running MSnSE or MS for that matter you can run by speed density or alpha-N one runs off map the other off tps. So it's kinda your choice. he shouldn't have had very good accelration with the tps off the car though. -Ed

ok, i got my pwm% down to 21 and the ms is at 1.0 but i might put it at 1.1ms. I'm going to upload my current msq however it is still not driveable. I'm also still having problems starting when it's hot. -Ed ok hyrbrid wouldn't load the msq as a pic file and i dont' have time to host it on my site so i took some pics of my settings. they are in my user gallery. I think this is the link not sure. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=5684&size=big&cat=500 -Ed

I noticed something else, from the maps i've viewed on here everybody has the PWM % at 100, I thought this would burn up the stock injectors, the MS manual says 75% and at 1.0ms where most guys here have it ath 100% and 25.4 or 25.5ms. So maybe i'm the first to run the pcb3.0 board with it built in and everybody else is running resistor packs or a daughter card i guess?

100 psi? what fuel pump are your running? I thought the injectors siezed up around 70psi.

what's the matter? you two arn't brave enough to COMPLETLY REWIRE EVERYTHING? lol

I believe the stock injectors are 24lb/hr for N/A although I could be wrong. I just want to clarify this.... Set constants first, then VE table, then adjust the warmup after the VE is set, then accel?