Nismo280zEd

well the front brakes seeming to be wearing in just fine, equal dust and no pull to one side. I think the caliper on the driver side had frozen up a lil when my car sat while i was in Florida. Either way everything seems to work now and they grab nicely. -Ed

So I've been building this board in the wee hours of the morning whenever I get some free time. I pluged in the DB9 (serial) connector to the computer tonight to verify what i have done so far. so I use the hyperterminal like it says jump pins 2&3 on the cable, verify connectivity, it works. Ok so i plug into the board like it says, jump 12&13 on the 40 pin socket like it says. and no connectivity. So i start checking voltage. I trace it back to the serial cable, making me wonder if my motherboard on my computer isn't being gay on me? pin 1 and 9 are supposed to carry a 5v charge correct? I only get like 2.25 -2.35 from pins 2&3. So is it something i did on the board or my computer? (yes i have verified the cable is pass through and checked the voltage coming from the back of my computer (no cable) same thing. Thanks for any help. -Ed

took everything apart the last two days. wonderful MSA sent me the wrong damn wheel bearings. Cleaned mine and inspected them, they look excellent still, repaked them, got the rotors turned, put rotor and hub back on, manually pushed each piston back on the calipers, so i know they aren't sticking. Put new hawk pads in, bleed the front brakes. No squeal and no brake pull, however doesn't stop that well either. I'll check the rear drums this weekend hopefully. -Ed

Yeah boy!

I'm not talking about the warning switch. I run an 83zx booster and master cylinder in my 78 280. -Ed Yes i realize brake dust on one side and not the other is a dead giveaway, but that does not tell me the source of the problem, just that one wheel is using more pad than the other, I checked the calipers today, that's not the problem.

the car has new master cylinder, brake booster, lines, and SS lines to the calipers which also are relatively new (3 yrs old) They both blead off the same though, so I wouldn't think its the caliper? If the piece is just a T then i'll go pick up a fitting from swadgelock and solve that problem right there. I was thinking it was a valve for some reason, I'll have to look at it again. My car doesn't get driven enough to show significant pad wear. The only thing you can tell is more brake dust on the passenger than the driver front wheel only. I'll see if the local auto store has a caliper in stock, if that's not it i'll just bring it back to them. -Ed

mine is the opposite, i get no fumes windows down, windows up i get a little through the vent, but that's recent, prolly because i broke the welds on my header and my pipe is being held on by a coat hanger from my tranny mount? lol -Ed

seems like i really started the fire with this one. I guess I should mention I run synthetic only and will not ever switch. Judging by my own experience with engine tear downs, synthetic is MY personal choice. Having said that, I found data only with amsoil, it appears to be the only oil up there with mobil one fully synthetic. As you said Mike Kelly, I can buy the mobil at my local walmart on my way home from work, where as Amsoil is downtown Houston, or shipping charges. However you guys did get kinda sidetracked, I think only two people answered what weight they run in their Z. To add to the flame what filter do you run? I used to run Mobil one filters, I now run K&N oil filters. -Ed

So the front of the car takes the hydraulic line from the master cylinder then goes into a proportioning/splitter valve that is supposed to evenly distribute forces to the left and right side of the vehicle, well mine is putting most of it to the right(passenger) side of my car. A new one cost 230 bucks, so i'm wondering if i could use and adjustable bias valve inline? (60 bucks) to control left and right? or am I better off just junkyarding the part? -Ed BTW if you have a working one i'll buy it from you

already went to Tech hated it came back home. I'm around 50-60 credit hours depending on which ones will transfer. I can't go out of state or anywhere very far, A&M college station area might be freasible, but i'm prolly buying a house (hopefully) come this summer, so I can't be drivn' like 4 hrs to dallas or something like that. I don't plan on havn' a 9-5 desk job, my degree is mainly just to say i have one. I already own my auto business and the electrical engineering and programming is mainly out of pure curiousity and interest. I just want to play with cars and design some crafty ecu's and electronics and program some systems that are much needed in the auto field. -Ed

I can't decide what university to attend. Choices are between Sam Houston University or University of Houston. I'm majoring in Electrical Engineering with a minor in Computer Science. I can't really find much info on either in those fields. Thanx guys. -Ed Hopefully have a degree soon

yeah the sketches maybe copyrighted but unless your pending a patent doesn't stop anybody from making something that looks exactly like it. Just a thought next time you design something. -Ed copyrights are for documents. patents are for objects. Usually how that works.

evercoat makes some pretty decent products. That primer sands very nicely if memory serves me well. Epoxy primers and paints can easily be obtained and just about any boat store. Not as hard to find as you might think. Yes they are toxic but so it epoxy resin which you can order through the mail with paying hazardous cargo tax. However I'm not so sure you'd want epoxy paint on your car body. Epoxy is generally a hard brittle substance once curied, unless you pay big bucks for the really good stuff it's not going to flex without cracking. It'd be better used for things like wheels, suspension pieces, control arms, valve cover, pulleys, brackets, engine blocks, things of this nature. Hope that helps a little. -Ed

Michelin Pilot makes a performance tire, my dad runs it on his 911 unbeliebable grip. Also Dunlop SP 9000 or lesser series depending on wear level you want.

I did my own carpet from a boat store, so much nicer. As for the seals i've used the MSA hatch and door seals (non OEM) I have 78 280z. Hatch seal is EXCELLENT very impressed. Door seals however are a bit annoying, your doors don't close right for a while till the rubber "wears in" about a month or so in hot TX weather did the trick. However they do seal excellent and don't leak. -Ed

Thought I would bring this up with all the marketing money being spent on Castrol's Syntec. (which btw is under FTC charges). What motor oil and weight do you run in your Z or car? I personally run Mobil One super synthetic and have for the life of the car. I've different weights from 15w40 to 10w50 However when i got online to look up the castrol hyp, i came across amsoil anybody here run it? thoughts? It appears to be one step above mobil one. -Ed

so ugh.. raise your hand if your getn' rapped by school? *waves both arms frantically*

I guess I should describe my car a little. It's a 2+2 but the interior is just about gutted. Back seat no longer exists, and i took the false flooring out for more storage. Thus i was thinking about putting two tens in the wells where the backseat used to be. Also my girl likes bass.

damn... VR6 in that light car.. nutz mike

agreed, discussed several times, the head won't bolt on, spacing between cylinder 3&4 is different if i recall correctly. Do a search

brought this back as i just purchased infinity speakers for the stock locations in my 2+2 just behind the front seats on the side. Still pondering sub placement, in a jumpseat well or hatch area. -Ed

running megasquirt? -what color blue is that, looks like the vette blue i had before. -Ed

any 02 that i can get my hands on i'll be using lol. Mike said my fuel rail finally came in today, haven't gotten to look at it yet. So now i have everything in hands. -Ed I'm running the pcb3.0 board. upgraded from the 2.2

so this is kinda fuel related. Is there any particular reason the TB is mounted so the butterfly opens on a horizontal plane? what if i rotated it 90deg and put it on a vertical plane? There's no fuel going in, only air, I don't see how it would matter much. Just wondering -Ed

have you tried victoria british? -Ed