ryant67

Got the Xdi installed on Sunday. Took me about 3 hours, but the majority of that time was spent tidying wiring. Very straightforward job and the car fired up on the first try, huzzah! Not that noticeable a difference in performance, but it does look nice, new, and shiny. No complaints. I installed the Xdi box into the glove box, so as to avoid it being visible, yet still easily accessible. I just made up a base for it to mount to with some spare aluminium sheet metal, which also screwed down onto where the glove box itself mounts. Easy job, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The coils went where the HPV was mounted.

It will be really interesting to see what sort of numbers you achieve with the 45's, since theoretically the 40's have been holding your engine back a little. Here's hoping you get some good luck going this time and everything works out!

New toys for the car. Isky L6 grind cam, and an Electromotive Xdi, which popped up on ebay for a price I couldn't resist. Shouldn't be too much of a hassle to swap out the old HPV-1 system for it. It will be interesting to see if the new, updated system makes any difference over my very old looking one. Not sure if I'll swap the cam now, or wait until spring, we'll see.

Attended a local car show last week and one of the professional photographers snapped this pic, love it! No other Datsuns were at the show, lonely place to own these cars, but I guess it does make my car stand out a little more at least, haha...

The body shop redid some of the work, and the car looks a lot better off for it. I'm still not entirely happy with what they did to my car, but I am willing to cut my losses and walk away at this point. Just an accumulation of little things, such as: - Repainting the headlight buckets and cowl to match the incorrect paint code they used on the fenders and hood. The paint is close to the original colour though, and it blends well enough through the doors that the difference isn't noticeable going back to the rear of the car. So it's annoying, but not the end of the world... - They clearcoated over some dirty areas of the inner fender by where the hood meets them. So yeah, now I have a small area that's impossible to clean. At least it only shows when the hood is open and it's a subtle thing - few will ever notice it I suspect, but f###ing sloppy on their part. - They got paint on a bunch of rubber pieces and they didn't remove the cowl for painting, something that would have required 2 minutes and the removal of 4 screws. Those 4 screws, which were new fasteners, are now painted over. - There is a touch of primer overspray on the rocker on the drivers side. How that passed their inspection is beyond me... But anyway, the panel alignment is better, and I did get a lot more paint work done than what I paid for, which is a good thing provided they did the paint work properly and it lasts. I'll likely strip the entire car down for a proper full paint job in 10 years or so anyway, so this is very serviceable in the meantime. While they were doing all of this, I also bought some 6 louver inspection lids from ebay and had them paint them as well. Quite pleased with them!

Great read with a lot of useful info in there, might save me from some real headaches - thanks for the heads up! Will be sure to double check everything, thanks! I have an extra set of aluminum retainers that were ran on my old E31 head with a .520-ish lift cam, which might be a useful backup option. The N42 I am using on my engine right now has stock retainers though, so I will be moving to Schneider ones. I think I have read of folks running into some difficulties with valve stem clearance on high lift when running them, but we shall see. Hoping things work out with the viton seals.

I just ordered a camshaft from Isky and the fellow I spoke to on the phone seemed very sure that the .540 lift, 270 duration cam would not make contact with the flat top pistons I am running in my F54 block. As I, perhaps mistakenly, understand it, it's not just lift that makes contact, but duration and lobe separation which both alter where the piston will be in relation to the valve. . I'll be running Schneider springs and retainers, and those fancy Ford V6 viton stem seals.

Are spare parts available, and what is the cost of them like? That would be my first concern. TVR has changed hands, shut down, reopened, etc, quite a few times over the past couple decades. Could lead to some headaches when it comes to support. Would make for a pretty compelling swap though!

Wow, beautifully done!!!

Nothing worse than having scumbags going through your personal space, sorry to hear this happened to you. Hope you had insurance and the loss will be covered? Doesn't help with the mental side of the incident though

Might as well add a pic of the damage too

Had someone back into the car a few weeks ago and the front of the hood got damaged. Thankfully I was in the car at the time, and the guy was very apologetic and things got settled easily. Unfortunately my body shop of choice didn't do their best work though... Looked good at a glance: IMG_20160805_193950~2 by ryant67, on Flickr Mismatched paint and no blending: IMG_20160801_064218 by ryant67, on Flickr IMG_20160731_175515 by ryant67, on Flickr Primer overspray on the cowl: IMG_20160731_175929 by ryant67, on Flickr I had them do some rust repair while they were doing the hood work. I bought some tabco lower fender panels in an effort to make the job easier. Here is what I wound up getting back from the shop... IMG_20160808_144704 by ryant67, on Flickr IMG_20160731_180026 by ryant67, on Flickr IMG_20160731_181335 by ryant67, on Flickr IMG_20160808_144650 by ryant67, on Flickr IMG_20160808_144655 by ryant67, on Flickr IMG_20160808_144700 by ryant67, on Flickr Terrible alignment, and a real lack of attention to detail. They guy also build up the lower part of the door in an effort to get the fender to align, so should I every install a different fender, the door will now not align with it. What the hell? I went back in and complained, and they are redoing the work right now. Very anxious about this, and really hoping they get it right this time - I paid good money to improve the car here, and the sloppy work has effectively hurt the value of the car. I wonder if the shop thinks these are still cheap little cars, so they aren't trying too hard? I should get it back this week, so we will see. Worst comes to worst? I'll keep an eye out for some good condition used fenders and have another shop paint them, more money though, sigh...

ZCCJDM lists it for $5100 shipped. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt94875/pd2155224/KAMEARI__SPL__HEAD__PARTS_

Edited - double post

$11k? Where from? That's highway robbery... Retail from Kameari's own website shows the retail price as being 435k Yen, which is around $4250 USD. Even with shipping, duties, and some other extra fees, it shouldn't be anywhere close to $11k. If I were you, I would call Slovers porting out of California and see what they can do for you.

Beautiful work on the tank!!

Pretty much, words can be taken however the reader wishes them to be. Emoticons do help, but only when acknowledged.

Oh, also, no holes, smooth. The emblem was attached using adhesive I believe.

For what it's worth, my 12/70 240z has the rear hatch vents. From what I understand though, it was around this time that they were switching over from series 1 to 2 and some cars got early parts, others didn't. My car could have been from the first week of December and yours from the last week, maybe that would have been enough time for the change? I'm 15981, by the way.

I recall being allowed to 'like' a single post each day when I had 'donating member' status. So can confirm.

You'll be very happy with the Glisten PC, Chris. I did my Mikunis with the stuff just over a year ago, and while I was changing the venturi in them tonight I gave them a good look over and wipe down - they still look exactly like they did the day I coated them, no flaking, no yellowing, perfection! Great product. Smart work on the test rig, should save your back from a lot of pain, and streamline the wiring process quite a bit!

Are the LEDs dimmable?

Was just re-reading this all again, and I must have missed this point the first time around. If your fuel pump is putting out 4psi (Carter 4070 presumably?) then why are you running a pressure regulator? 4psi is pretty much perfect for these carbs, is it not? If I were you, I would either adjust the regulator full open as a method to bypass its function completely, or remove it from the system, and see how that affects things. It could be restricting flow enough to starve the carbs at sustained WOT.

A few finishing touches to the engine bay, just minor stuff though. Painted the starter and the brake booster, as they both had a little surface rust on them. Just scrubbed them well with a scuff pad until the rust was off, then masked and sprayed with good old Rustoleum matte black. Re-arranged the ignition leads due to some sloppy routing and contact points. Ground down the bracket for my magnetic sensor so it better aligns to the trigger wheel, it was a touch too long before. Painted by fire extinguisher matte black while I was at it, so it no longer sticks out like a sore thumb. It's there, and I'm thankful, but it looked a little too "hardcore" for my taste when it was bright red. I've placed the order for the new camshaft now, so waiting for that to come in, then I'll go ahead and do the swap. I already have schneider springs and retainers, as well as a clean set of used rockers sitting ready.

Steve, I have noticed the same leaning out when in 4th on long pulls - usually at the strip when doing runs for fun. It only happens when at WOT for extended time, something you never see on street driving. On Chickenman's list, the only item on my car that doesn't meet his conditions in the Holley Regulator. What I find odd is that the Holley regulator to dead head at the carbs is a very common setup on these cars, and I have seen many race-oriented Z's running that exact setup. Not sure why it would be an issue for some, but not for others. Unless of course the stress of running a high flow pump to a dead head on a daily driver has weakened the pump over time and it's no longer putting out its advertised flow figures anymore, is that possible? I agree that it's a better practice to run a bypass regulator after the carbs, but the stock return lines aren't large enough to carry the capacity and it's a decent amount of effort to plumb a larger one into the tank, unless there is some trick I am missing.