BleachZee

I've heard of this booster swap being done on the S30. You have to cut the mounting bolts to the appropriate length and turn the booster upside down (rotate 180 deg from how it mounts in the 280ZX) With that done, just route a new hose to the intake manifold. I might do this in the future but I haven't done this on a Z yet.

I do!

That is not free. Trading labor for a car is just that, trading. If the guy owed your dad nothing and then gave the car away it would be considered free.

Uppon further investigation, I see some European models had different mirrors. Are these what you think were correct for your car?

Yes someone has done that. I remember a member of Zdriver did the Z31 swap on a non-turbo 280ZX and got it running.

http://www.bleachgarage.com/images/event/canby10/ Picture 35, 36, 37 are of this car. Its really clean on the outside. The price was not listed on the sign. I think if this car was a factory turbo then it would justify the asking price.

The plastic power mirror is the OEM type. Even if your 280ZX had no power mirror, the mirror housing will look the same. You can leave it as it is and adjust it by hand or hook up the power controls later if you find the switches from a 280ZX.

They will screw into the block just fine. The signal they send it meant to work with the appropriate oil pressure gauge. so I'm saying those non-turbo senders will show a slightly different reading on your gauge. If you want it accurate, run the non-turbo gauges. (you lose the oil temp)

I started with a 1982 NA and dropped in an L28et so I hope this is the same... The dash wiring is basically left by itself. Your starter should crank independantly of the ECU being in the car or not. If it is powered while cranking then your fuel injection works. The wires that power the coil are your key spot to splice a couple wires into the harness for the fuel injection near the turbo ECU. Over by the battery your main power wires comming from inside the fender are the same on the non-turbo and turbo. Cut those main wires and splice them into your turbo harness. This gives everything power as it should with ignition. The one clip on the left with the crimp connectors is the only part that was different. I matched the colored wires to the NA setup and that leaves one white wire going from the FI harness to nowhere. it did not seem to affect the engine. The NA power and ground wires at the coil you hook up to power and ground on your turbo coil. Pull the turbo transistor out of the turbo car's coil wiring harness and it looks like this. Then run that wire through the fender alongside the factory NA power and ground. It splices into the lower left yellow wire in this pic (coincides with the picture on your schematic) The "dash" harness that was already in place puts power to the coil, then the transistor thing sends a RPM signal to the ECU. Good enough! The other wires I did not need to connect. I think that is all you need to know. I did this swap 4 years ago.... its been a while

I've found that the Nissan brand sender units will send out a slightly different signal on the non-turbo vs the turbo unit. I used a turbo sender (engine swap) with my non-turbo 280ZX gauges and the gauge reads funny. I switched it back to the non-turbo sender and it read like it should. You may find different results with various aftermarket senders.

yeah, $50 should have gotten you the entire strut with brakes! poo'

I just took a look at craigslist for some of the PA cities... lots of overpriced 280ZXs over there. I even see a couple 1973 280ZXs! wow, really rare since they didn't come out until 1979.

Not totally sure, but I think the 1981-84 Nissan Maxima is the same hub. Their brake rotors and calipers look the same but are just ever so slightly smaller. What is "top dollar" for a Z-car part? A pair of full front 280ZX struts with brakes only goes for about $100 these days and only that high because 510 guys want them. I can get hubs from a local yard for maybe $14 each...

It does not look like anything I've seen on a Z or ZX manifold. Where does the line trace to in the other direction?

well, I check for the personalized plate and it is not available so someone has at least been buying tabs every year.

But this thread has pictures! Its hard to believe that people will actually be willing to pay over $13,000 for that car.

well, i'm in Washington and I have a Fairlady so if you're not going to use it afterall...

Very nice! Too bad they didn't get the gradual fade of the lines in like factory. Still a good deal since the Nissan ones aren't available.

A new member who did not post his location.... most every place in California (if not all of CA) require smog checks on 1975 and newer cars.

The half shaft u-joints are usually the first to go. The driveshaft joints from what I have seen, can last forever. The ones in my first 280ZX were still solid after over 200,000 miles. If you're switching out to an R200 and you find CV shafts to go with it at the same time, then sure I can see doing the whole setup at once. Plus you're replacing those worn u joint half shafts at the same time.

Yes it works. I used a 280ZX radiator in a 1984 Maxima before. (81-84 had the L24 engine)

The doors in the 2+2 are longer. therefore, the inner door panels are longer, window glass, and yes the t-tops are longer. You could possibly cut the door panels up a little to fit if they are in really good shape. Its your call. Engine is the same. Perfect fit for a swap or a spare turbo engine. Although the driveshaft is longer (and auto is different flanged) the rear differential and other rear suspension is the same. The rear bumper, tail lights are also the same. The back hatch is NOT the same.

Why do this swap if you have a non-turbo automatic? The R180 is lighter and will have slightly less drivetrain loss. also, are you sure you have CV half shafts? Only the 2+2 or the turbo models did in 1982-83 from what I know. The others, like yours, should have u-joint half shafts.

I put spacers under the struts each time I lowered the car with springs so I removed the whole strut. The second Z I also put on larger sway bars and T3 tension rods at the same time.

I could write up instructions. I've done this twice on a 280ZX now. The rear pair are far easier than the front. You have to battle the sway bar and holding it all in there to line up the lower control arm spacers and start the two bolts threaded can be a little struggle.