BleachZee

The Z31 open diff accepts 280ZX CV half-shafts, possibly even S30 U-joints shafts. Its a normal R200 on the outside.

I did run 2-piece 4 to 5 lug adapters from Techno Toy Tuning. They don't make them anymore. The outter piece is held in by some allen head bolts. They were very hard to remove after they had been installed for a while. However, when in place they worked flawless. No rattles or vibrations... no steering issues. I ran 18x8 wheels. The adaptors were 45mm thick and that is the only thickness offered. I had +38mm wheels. In hind sight, I was planning out and researching switching to 5-lug. I wish I had just done that so that I could run some crazy offset for really big lip in back. oh well.... Now I have a new 280ZX and just run the Rota 4-lug wheels with +04mm for a little lip and it bolts right up.

I just bought Tokico springs for my 280ZX. I plan to cut them a little but no more than 1 full coil. I'm going to install them first though and see where they're at and either cut 1/4 to 1/2 coil off front and rear to get it level and slightly lower. What size tires do you have? Are they proper size or undersize? I cut the stock coils on my 280ZX just for fun to slam it. 3.5 coils off the back and 1.5 coils off the front. Its plenty low but very stiff and bouncy... not fun to drive hard

If he clocked them 45 deg back then he could at least add caster and negative camber at the same time.

It used to connect to the hose between the AFM and the turbo. In that location it was always under vacuum, never under boost pressure. Now it connects right to the manifold which will pressurize your valve cover only when under boost. Its probably ok, but its not totally the same as before.

I kind of miss the torque and quick response of a 1982 NA engine with 3.9 gears vs my 1983 turbo with 3.54 rear lag and high gearing feel sluggish but its only just the beginning

I've never seen an L28 CHTS go bad, but for some reason the Z31 (same sensor type from Nissan) goes bad all the time... weird stuff

Sounds a bit like a 280ZX running with no AFM plugged in... I tried this once and the car would idle but die as soon as the throttle was touched. Also make sure your head and block temp sensors are still plugged in.

Rockauto.com might have better pricing and if you have to wait for it with AutoZone then you might as well do mail order. 225mm for non-turbo 2-seater 240mm for a 2+2 Z

1. Buy R200 open 3.7 diff from 1987-89 300ZX only because the earlier R200 doesn't have the same bolts to bolt in the KAAZ LSD 4. get the side lash set and new bearings pressed on by an experienced shop + $75 5. Then do burnouts

I did cut the springs for now. 1.5 coils in front, 3.5 in back. (my car rode really high in back) I have sway bars and T3 tension rods as well. I did just get my Tokico kit in with struts and springs so I'll be putting that in soon. It may ride slightly higher. http://www.bleachgarage.com/280zx83.html Wheels are Rota RB-R 16x8 +4 225/45-16 front 245/45-16 rear

Just lowered my car. 1983 turbo 5-speed. 141k

I spent $150 shipped for a pair of them from Nissan... 5 years ago

Have you done a compression test and checked the ignition timing? I prior owner may have shaved the head after warping it and possibly advanced the ignition. Running high octane fuel like you do should have solved the problem though.

All I remember about that front end is that it can not be purchased in North America. Its fairly common in Japan.

don't forget about hydraulics and airbags as options.

For that price it better run good! Is it a regular driver for the current owner or is it parked a lot? New spark plugs and new gas in the tank should get you back home without a problem. Once you're home doing a more thorough tune-up would be good.

The bumper trim looks better

Put your battery on a trickle charge all night long. See if that helps. You may just have a weak alternator that is intermittently charging or not while driving.

I used some early 90's CRX Si seats in a 280ZX. They were very low and thin seat coushion. I'm 6' 1" I was able to do a little drilling and fit the factory ZX seat rails to the CRX seats. That let me use the factory Z seat belts which is nice for safety. (no hacked together seat belt mounts) I gained maybe 1" of head room and was still able to adjust the seat forward and back. You could mount seats directly to the floor to gain more room but then you loose your forward and back movement ability.

thanks for the pictures. I also did not go this year. I usually have a lot of pictures. my website has pictures from 2006, 2007, and 2008

I was planning to go with Tokicos on my '83 turbo. A low ride and stiff suspension are what I'm after so I like the feedback I read above. I personally bought Suspension Techniques drop springs from shox.com for a 1982 turbo I had (actually 2+2) and I loved them. A good 1.5" drop in front, only 1 in back (could use maybe a little spring cut) Nice firm ride. I used KYB gas-a-just shocks on all four corners. That was my first and only experience with lowering a Z and I was happy with it. I hope the Tokicos do a 1.5" drop even though they say 1" on their website.

Have you thought of just taking out your stock radiator and measuring the max size you can fit in there. Also get what you would think would be the min size you'd want. Just get an aluminum radiator with the upper and lower hose connections in approximately the same area and bolt it in with just a couple holes drilled. Maxima might do the trick. You may need to switch to an electric fan since your fan shroud may no longer work.