BleachZee

you will need parts from a 1982-83. The mounting points for the calipers on the a-arm are different. So get the entire trailing arm assembly with rotor and calipers. You can re-use the axels and hub. Your brakes may still click or clunk. Mine always did on my 1982 Z and they were complete.

like was said earlier, replace those battery cables first. That is usually the problem. While you're out getting cables put your battery on the charger so its topped off.

Plus if or when you send it back, you have to do all the labor of pulling your manifolds again and unbolting your exhaust. (unless you weld to the y-pipe) Not fun. Then your car will be down for who knows how long. If they replace it then maybe only a few weeks. If they don't want to replace it...

I sent you a PM Pull that ECU and MAS for someone before they're gone

I had a paint shop tell me that if I brought my car in primered that I should sand it lightly at 300 grit so they had a surface that the paint could adhere to.

wow, Eurozx disappeared a LONG time ago. I remember his black car. I'm honored to post in this 8 year old thread

Fenders are $25 each in the wrecking yard here. I dont' have any but if I did, you could drive here, swap them on, and drive back. Duty free (oh ya, you're not in BC)

Like this... I know I can get these new. I'm just wondering if there is a used one around that someone wants to sell.

No, the 280ZXT ECU does not take any modifications into account on the a/f ratios. The oxygen sensor makes very little adjustment for richness I don't believe there is a piggyback system. If you do a 1988-89 Z31 (300zx) turbo ECU then you have the option of having it reprogramed for those injectors. Then you would have to have it programmed again when you go with forced induction. I believe so. I think the factory NA injectors were 240cc (?) 440cc is very large All the work you mentioned could be done, minus the injectors and it should run fine until you're ready for a standalone ECU or Megasquirt to go along with the 400c injectors.

Sounds like you got it running in your other thread. 280ZX and 1987 300ZX are single batch fire. No need to number injectors. 1988-89 I hear are two banks of 3 so it does matter a little for those ECUs.

oh ya Tim Hortons is good stuff. I've only seen them in Canada though. my impression of the low compression L28 turbo is laggy lag lag... That Z31 ECU sounds like a miracle! Only thing better would be slightly higher compression to add more torque and throttle response.

Sweeeet! Now I want to do my swap.

I did not know about the TPS trick. I think I just read how to set timing in the factory Nissan service manual and did it that way by turning the distributor.

With a timing light sure, advance to 24 deg and see how it runs for a while. Others mentioned they went more advanced. I never have. My old turbo I ran at 24 on premium. I was constantly having boost leaks even though the engine was stock. I wanted the extra protection... my recent car is a factory turbo. no leaks, all stock right now. I run mid grade but plan to do Z31 ECU (1988) and some other junk. Not sure what I'll do on timing. time will tell I highly recommend you get an Autometer manual boost gauge. They are much more accurate than the factory gauge.

could be a very small boost leak I had a small leak at one of the injector o-ring seals when I did a turbo L28 engine swap

you're probably not getting the "wide open throttle" position sending a signal to the ECU. So the fuel supply is limited, reaches a lean point and makes that popping backfire sound. Who knows what the Z32 TPS has compared to the Z31 or S130. Why use it? Isn't the swap supposed to use the 280ZX TPS and just wire it in?

The 300ZX turbo has slightly higher compression than the 280ZX turbo so I would guess that is one reason the 300 timing is farther back. Also the 280ZX ECU is not very precise on the fuel map and runs a bit rich under any sort of boost or anything above 3000 rpm. The richness and low compression fights pre-detonation. (also meant to run low octane fuel) 300zx runs more lean but it is a more proper mixture for more torque and horsepower. If you're running high octane fuel only then it would make sense that you can run the advanced ignition timing. Listen for pinging though. Also, are you at stock boost right now? I would assume so since you made no mention of other modifications. I did read that 1988-89 300ZX had a smaller turbo, lower boost, but higher static compression. The ECU supposively pushes timing another 2 deg advanced under boost. You won't have to worry about this if your ECU is truely a 1987 though. 8-bit

Get the hood too. Turbo scoop. scoop or die!

Check out the NorthWest section of my350z.com A guy there was giving away a free hatch with no glass but only if you picked it up in person in Washington state.

Are you also swapping to a solid axle or did they switch to IRS in 2009?

I've emailed that guy with the 280ZX 4x4 a few years ago. I think it was a Nissan 720 4x4 with a Z22 engine. Those are 6-lug hubs, same as all Nissan trucks. A truck has a IFS setup with a small R180 diff hanging under the engine. Not what you want for a low ground clearance car. If you can find an AWD steering rack like out of a Skyline that would be a good start. Then there's always the SR20DET like you said... Pulsar running gear. Nissan did make a awd Stanza but the drivetrain may not hold up to 200 foot pounds of torque.

I believe that was the first year of that particular body style. 1981 only. 1982+ they switched to a welded bracket but I'm not sure the wagon was the same. The Maxima wagon might actually have rear drums since it has a solid axel. That generation of Maxima was 1981-84. also, the front struts and brakes look like the 280ZX style but they are not 100% the same. Brake pads ect do not switch out between them and a Z. Good only for core charges.

Rota RB-R 16x8 +4, Hyperblack spokes

Isn't his mom worth more than that? You could get a fake money order for $500,000 if you wanted to.

Find a Z31 turbo with a blown engine and put the L28 in there!