BleachZee

ok, so you replaced the block. I thought you guys were saying the top plug in the factory turbo "T" was 1/8 BSPT. i was trying to get a fitting for that. I haven't tried screwing this into the actual L28 block. If it does fit all I need is that NPT T-block. the first item you posted looks to be exactly what I got from McMaster My turbo engine is running like crap though... so I'm just using the stock line for now..

two things, the throttle linkage was slightly different so I had to move the gas pedal stopper back to allow the car to idle lower. The vacuum leak was the BOV. The stupid thing was opening all the time. It would open and then the idle would go down and then it would close. The idle would go up a little and it would open... I took the BOV off and it runs much better. Idles pefect but the engine does not run perfect. I get massive popping out the intake. Adjusting the distributor base doesn't help either way. The car only is drivable under 2K rpm and at only 1/4 throttle or less. In neutral it revs a little better but will still pop if you get on the pedal too much. When it pops the power just falls flat. I can't accelerate hard if I wanted to. I think this means it is running lean. does that sound right? I can still hear that turbo spooling. (I have no boost gauge right now, running the NA 280ZX gauges still)

Keep jacking up the prices on Fairlady Z's. I'm all for that!

Plug 2: ignitor plug (YW) to YW wire on coil ignitor connection Plug 2: Yellow wires to ignition switch, connected to single blade wire by NA ecu (280zx) that has power when key is on I then ran the + and - NA coil wires to the + and - coil wires on the turbo harness. I stuffed the extra NA wires into that hidden tunnel inside the fender. It fired right up. I think I have a vacuum leak though but I drove the car and it boosts all the time and idles high. I still need to install the turbo fuel pump. But the wiring was easy. This is a 1983 280ZX turbo engine into a 1982 280ZX NA

I will have some pictures of an '83 turbo harness but I'm putting it into a 1982 280ZX NA. I do have a question though; why can't you just run power to the NA coil. + and - on the coil and then start the engine? What is so special about this little black box by the turbo coil? ...will the turbo distributor get fried if you run the NA style coil? ...or is it just about getting a tach signal to the dash?

My paint is long gone. The passenger fender and door were repainted by a body shop 2 months after I got the whole car painted at Macco. All the Macco paint has since faded and the two panels are still shiny. I'll be doing bodywork and paint soon on the whole car. I don't have pictures of the adaptors apart. You take these apart and bolt the back half to the four lugs on the car. Then the outter section has 6 allen head bolts to hold it together and the 5 lugs come out of the outter half. The one thing they didnt' tell me is that your 5 lugs in the adaptor will not be 12x1.25 like your factory lugs are. They sent me those generic locking lug nuts and I can't use my good set that I had on before...

The FI is plugged in, vacuum lines ran, fuel lines on, intake just about in. I still have to hook up a temporary exhaust, get the alternator in there, radiator, and then look into the wiring. So basically I have not yet gotten to the ECU wiring yet. I've had a few other things going on that has kept my work time on the car down quite a bit. Also, I was reminded of this website http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/ there is a wiring diagram further down the page. http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/my_schematic.tif by the battery I just looked at the colors of the wires and spliced them into the NA plug to match colors.

4 > 5 lug adaptors from Techno Toy Tuning http://www.technotoytuning.com/products/wheel_adapters.html the 4 lug are pictured and are vailable in 32mm and thicker. The 4 to 5 are available in 45mm only as they are two piece for strength. My Z31 stuff is not available. I may end up doing the 5-lug swap anyway even though I already have the adaptors. But now I can take my time and I have the wheels I wanted.

part # 4860K141 or part # 4860K611 One is male/female, the other is male/male both BSPT to NPT http://www.mcmaster.com/

I went to the hardware store and they dont' have anything like these fittings. but, I could certainly buy the fitting I need online if I did re-tap the T.

I just put the turbo FI wiring harness in my 280ZX. Once I drop the engine in tonight or tomorrow I'll be at the point where I have to wire some of this extra little stuff up. I hope it goes well.

have you read this article? http://www.yadamnfool.com/turbo_z_conversion/s130_zxt_to_s30_z.htm

Is 1/8" the diameter of the thread or is that the thread pitch? I just ordered a 1/8" BSP to -4 AN adaptor and the BSP end is way too small of a diameter to thread into the Nissan T on the side of the block. There is a lot of slop. I have the -4 stainless line so the other end fits the line perfect. Did I get the wrong part? This is the only British adaptor they have available... http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-033&Category_Code=FTG For the turbo side, I got the aluminum T3 plate they make, a 0.060 restrictor, and adaptor to go to the -4 AN line. All looks good on that end.

oil return is just a small pipe welded to the oil pan... no harder than installing a BOV. Oil supply is just a T screwed in between the block and oil pressure sending unit. right?? I was thinking more along the lines of the pistons and rings being different and in the head its just the shape of the exhaust ports that is different. However, you could rebuild an NA F54 block with dished pistons and turbo rings. Then buy a P90 head anywhere and have it mailed to you. Buy a generic T from most any turbo fittings supplier (ATPturbo.com) anyway... so ya it is possible to piece it together with very few original parts. Going aftermarket will cost you thousands in the end but you'll have a 400hp engine. for my swap, I'm under $1000 total and maybe 240hp but I'm running almost all stock turbo parts... still working on it though

Ok, so later on I changed my mind again and just went with 4 > 5 lug adaptors. They work great so far and I have my 5-lug 18" wheels I wanted. I sold the 16x9 / 16x10 racing wheels. 45mm adaptor thickness wheels are 18x8 +38 tires are 225/40/18 every now and then one of the front tires rubs just a little while turning hard; usually moving slow in a parking lot and hitting a speed bump. The rear has lots of room inside and out. The car is lowered 1.5" front and 1" rear with ST springs.

I just sold a set in the classifieds section of this website...

I'm doing this swap soon... and my plan is to run about 12psi, stock turbo, stock ECU, stock injectors, JSK fuel rail, RRFPR, and small intercooler. I should be looking at 230-250hp from what I've heard. That's good enough for me. Beyond that PSI, you probably want bigger turbo and bigger injectors, and then you're going to need a diffrent ECU to meter fuel properly. The stock ECU just doesn't seem to work well for anything other than what it came with from the factory. These guys are so basic in their design.

Stock ECU setup will be WAAAAY easier than making and hooking up Megasquirt. depending on your horsepower goals, the stock ECU may not be able to do what you need it to. If you're keeping the turbo engine fairly stock then the stock ECU would be just fine.

Datsun Z 1977-83 810/Maxima 1977-84 trucks 1977-80 The 1977-78 200SX 5-speed as rare as it is will not work right. It is about 2 inches shorter and a much weaker transmission. (dog leg 5-speed) However, if you find one get it and sell it to 510 guys for big bucks. The 5-speed was introduced in 1977 so older cars might have one but you'll have to check.

One of mine that started leaking from the lower e-brake pivot I took apart. It appeared that the insides were dry and the metal was wearing away. Pulling them apart and putting some grease in there probably would have added 20 years to the life of the caliper. I got it from a wrecking yard so it sat for who knows how long.

The caliper had to be replaced. Some shaft was sheared off inside. The handles on the calipers should only move about half way before they will be fully engauged when already adjusted properly. Yes, when you get the parking brake fixed in back then your rear pads will self-adjust as they are supposed to. This firms up the brake pressure all around. Remove each rear caliper. See that no anti-squeal compound is keeping the piston from turning. Move the brake lever by hand and see that the piston moves slightly. If so, turn the piston out a half turn on each side and re-install. Hook everything up and pull the parking bake handle a few times. You might hear the calipers click as the pads settle. That's all I had to do for a recent fix for my calipers.

Check the cable adjustment. Between the two calipers there is a cable that goes accross the car. In the middle a 2nd cable goes forward to the handle. Where the two cables meet there is a bolt with a nut that can adjust how soon the handle applies pulling pressure to the calipers. Tighten it up a bit. My guess is that one of your calipers is broken. I had one where even when the lever was pulled on the caliper, the piston was not moving in so my parking brake was only holding on one side. Without the other side working correctly, that side was taking up all the slack and so the side that did pull only pulled at about 50% force... so really 25% parking brake power overall. Even with your pads worn out, the auto adjusters should work and they will push the bare pads right to the rotor if they are working fine.

245's will fit in the back for sure. The front tires set below the lower spring perch so its not the springs that are the problem. (just keep the outside diameter close to stock) I'm pretty sure 235 or even 245 will fit fine up front too. The outter fender lip is where you might be coming close. 245/50/15? can you get that size tire?