BleachZee

WOW! I've never heard about that before. Thanks. I did plan to run the stock injectors myself but looking for 240-250hp at the wheels. Sounds like that won't be a problem. 100psi is pushing it though. I wonder if you would want to up the size of your fuel lines from the tank at that point.

I want to see more pictures of your 280ZX!

stock turbo injectors are 260cc. Those will not get you 350hp. I heard they are maxed out at about 240-250hp and that is with a nice rising rate fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure over stock.

thanks for your reply. That was good info. The $199 regulator I listed a link to is part #2025 http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/begi.htm ...that part number is listed on the BEGi website as being for aftermarket turbo applications just as you suggested! Also, the manufacture's suggested retail price is $259 for those regulators. http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_FPR.html I'm also seeing on Bell's webpage they have a standalone type that should do the job and replace the factory Nissan FPR. That might not be a bad idea as well. Maybe Lightning Motorsports can get the other regulators at a good price if you give them the correct part number you want. Check those out at Bellengineering.net as linked to above. I've got my eye on part MR2032

Alright. I don't see the point of putting larger injectors and then setting the fuel pressure lower especially when the ECU isn't going to take advantage of the larger injector flow. What we really need is a Rising Rate regulator that can be manually set a little lower than stock pressure at idle (for larger injectors) Then when the boost comes in it should increase higher than a factory RRFPR so that you get more fuel at the top end like you need because the stupid ECU isn't going to increase the length of time the injectors are open. I'll run stock turbo injectors, stock ECU, but with a good RRFPR. I'll slowly turn the boost up 1psi to about 12 max and see how that goes for the stock turbo and fuel ratio. seems that to take advantage of larger injectors I need a programable ECU or at the very least an 87-89 300ZX turbo ECU. THEN I can use a hybrid turbo and 15+ psi. - - - - Thanks for the info on Bell Engineering. I did a search and found they have what 'they' call the best FMU or RRFPR. You can actually adjust not just the fuel pressure but the onset of the rising rate! THAT sounds like what I'm looking for. http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/begi.htm

Is the stock 280ZX FPR a rising rate or linear or what? What does it compare to the aftermarket ones that always rise 1:1 with boost? MSA sells a RRFPR for the turbo 280ZX, so is that a hoax or is it better than the factory Nissan unit? The MSA is over $200

What one did you buy? AEI-13109?

This is the answer I was thinking but hoping wasn't true. So is the point of the larger flowing injectors mainly just for the midrange torque and to help a little on the upper rpms? (using the stock ECU) The rising rate fuel pressure regulator rises the fuel pressure by boost only so I guess once you're at max boost it wont' change the pressure when your rpms cause the fuel mixture to lean out... [is the adjustable FPR the same as a Rising rate FPR?] With this in mind, what is the maximum we can expect out of the stock turbo and electronics? 370cc injectors, stock T3, small quality intercooler, stock ECU ect, AFPR or rising rate....? keep it at what psi, 12-14?

Ya, that's the book mentioned in the sticky at the top of this forum. I think I'll get a copy.

Thanks for the info. You have convinced me to go that route. I'll stick with the stock internals and just go for the larger turbo.

Can anyone explain exactly why a higher compression motor can't run the same boost as a lower compression motor? Like was said, when you pump in all that forced induction you really do have greater compression... Lets stay more along the lines of what we might actually do with the L28 Turbo. I've got an 82 turbo and 83 non-turbo engine. I'm really considering using the flat top L28 bottom with the P90 and turbo setup. What really is the boost limit running 8.8:1 compression? If it is 10psi then why can you run 20psi on a motor with 7.5:1 compression and have twice the power output? If I just make sure the fuel mixture is correct won't that be enough? My goal is 240-270whp. Would running the stock turbo at 12psi on the 8.8:1 engine be about the same as a T3/04 turbo at maybe 15-17psi on the 7.5:1 stock turbo engine?

Very true! Macco doesn't even think about wetsanding! hahaha... for $500 you get a spray on. They don't do doorjams either. Just mask and spray and they don't accept body parts separate from the car. If you have a bodykit, it better be ON the car. I guess we're talking about totally different quality levels.

Yes, I assume that the owner will do ALL the needed bodywork and primer the car before bringing it to Macco. Their bodywork is just "ok" and also very expensive. If the car you have has original paint and almost no rust to begin with, you'll have better luck at not having rust come up in the future.

All Maccos are independantly owned. I had a horrible experience with one Macco painting my car. I later heard that the same shop had done other cars and screwed them up. They refused to fix anything they messed up. Then I tried a different Macco and they did a great job. Go for the $500 paint job. Guaranteed for 4 years instead of the 2 year paint job for $400. Then keep it waxed and covered in a carport or garage if you can. It should last way longer than 4 years. The finish on my 2 year paint job lasted for just over 2 years then started to fade. I never waxed it and it was never covered. Parked out in the rain and driven daily all year round.

They do help grounding, but their price is rediculous. $19 shipping? It costs them $3 to ship it, and the rest they add to their pocket. You can get those same kits in stores for cheaper than that.

I have heard that even with an LSD, traction is very limited over 300tq. 300-350hp seems like it would be too much for the car where you have to hold back to keep from going sideways. I know everyone with a V8 has at least 300hp, but I'm suggesting that 300-350 is probably all you need.

Ya, get a stock Nissan or Japan made gasket. Forget the Felpro junk. Felpro is fine for the rest of the engine, but buy a better head gasket.

The head number is on the front right side... Driver's side on a Fairlady Z. Passenger side on a 240Z. E30 has square exhaust ports so the turbo manifold will match up. I don't know what other heads the later Fairlady Z's came with.

A lion's gotta eat too!

Sounds kind of like the 240Z front end I've seen put on the 240SX. Newer car, older styling. What you should do is use an AWD platform. Turbo six, AWD 280ZX would be great.

One car for each day of the week for the man of the house, and one 2+2 auto N/A for the wife.

Almost everyone uses the factory ZX turbo intake and exhaust manifold. Some use the 1975-76 280Z non-California intake manifold. It has fewer connections and no webbing between intake runners. That is mostly for cosmetic reasons. Neither flow any better than the other. Only a couple people have invested in custom exhaust manifolds for turbos. Because the majority of people runs 300hp or less, the factory fuel injection works fine. Some runs Megasquirt or other more expensive fuel management systems. The 280ZX turbo distributor is controlled by the computer so if you change to an aftermarket computer you will also have to figure out how to control the ignition.

You guys are probably looking at 150-160whp. A shaved head with large intake valves, BIG cam, tight springs, major porting, balanced lower end, and tripple sidedrafts can yield just barely 200hp with a 4.11 rear at 7,000rpm