BleachZee

I had the 60mm throttle body on my car with no other mods done to enlarge the intake. I drove that for several years. I put the stock throttle back on and the car was noticable faster. First of all, you have to enlarge every aspect of the intake tract to even think about getting more air in there. That includes a larger AFM or no AFM with different electronics. And larger throttle bodies do not just add power. 60 or 67 will make no difference with a stock cam.

looking good. Nice 'new' flywheel. I'm jealous of your intercooler.

Once I get that wastegate on there and the better BOV it will really be sounding like it should. We shall cruise again; two turbos

Good job on that throttle linkage. You're an engineering genious! nice find on the turbo as well. Go ahead and get yourself all set up. I'll keep an eye out for a local turbo or wastegate. I finally fixed my main engine problems. Sealed up the injectors to the manifold by using proper holders.

I figured that much on mine. I used 1200 deg white paint. It still looks perfect and I've driven over 1200 miles on it. (turbo)

You're moving right along there. If you see any Z31 turbos in your junk yard, grab the turbocharger. I believe you can use those on the L28. Also, grab its ECU, MAF (na Z31 also), and the crank angle sensor out of the dizzy of any Z31. Do a Z31 ECU swap. Its cheap and a much better system. You can try to see if the electronics you have work... but mine still don't after cleaning them up and repalcing every major component. I like the new wheels. Keep at it. See you in Port Townsend on the 19/20th ???

must be a digital gauge. My Autometer boost gauge has no wires except for the little light bulb for backlighting.

That second yellow wire that goes to ignition is the cold start wire. Do not connect to constant power or the car runs too rich! Only connect it to the START position or tie right in at the starter solinoid wire if going into an S30. My car starts instantly without it though so it is optional.

I connected the cold start wire to constant power to enrich the fuel mixture all the time. That got rid of my intake backfires and added all kinds of power under boost. So the problem is that the system runs lean. I'll swap the FPR and check my AFM. I have no pressure guage for the fuel line...

the factory service manual says set it at 24 deg +/- 3 so 21 works. I'm still having issues. I fixed some boost leaks, set my timing at 24... still boosts great but pops (intake) now and then and just bogs under full boost. I assembled my engine and it has a new chain that was installed correct. The dizzy is close to centered at 24 deg so the oil pump spindle was in correct.

That is my engine in the picture above. I thought there was no factory BOV at all on the L28ET. I had to drill and weld that pipe on the J-pipe to mount one. The vaccum hose is not hooked up in that picture.

ok thanks. I went over it and I had connected everything correct the first time. I guess I have other issues. Not really sure what the problem is... its hard to search the archives not knowing what is going on.

oh, so you put a used engine in your car without even installing a new timing chain. Well, you never know who might have messed with it in the past... so it could be off try disconnecting the battery and re-connecting. That fixed a rich starting problem I had. weird, huh? turn the front crank with a stocket to get it exactly at TDC. Move the mark on the front crank pully to the Zero on the timing plate.

Do you have a link to a post with info on this? My turbo engine is running and I wired one of these wires up but maybe the ECU isn't getting the correct signal for retarding the timing or something. My car's power just chokes out under boost.

If the most you can advance it by the adjustment at the base of the distributor is 9 BTDC, then your oil pump spindle was inserted one tooth off. When I advanced mine all the way, it was at 32. I was able to bring it back slightly and set it at 24 where it should be. You will need to set the engine at zero deg which should put the #1 piston at TDC and the compression stroke. Remove the front sway bar, drop the oil pump (remove the dizzy too) and line up the dot on the oil pump spindle with the center of the curved indent in the oil pump. Insert the oil pump straight up. then reinstall the dizzy From my experience with 4 and 6 cylinder L-series they are all set up like this. I have not known a distributor that could be removed and re-clocked from the top. they all have a bolt at the base to loosen and a small amount of adjustment but not being reclocked.

I had marked the wrong wire above. As I stated in my post above, it is the yellow with white stripe but I had marked the yellow wire as the one to connect. the picture has been corrected. The other wire he says to hook to ignition I had tried hooked to power and also not hooked up at all. the engine runs both ways. (although my engine has some problems under boost still)

do you want to buy a complete FI harness from a non-turbo 1983 280ZX?

so you're saying you put a wedge between the chain to keep it from dropping, but your upper sprocket is now off? If that is the case, no just make sure the front two cam lobes are pointed in upward positions ( / ) so both valves are closed. Move the sprocket so #1 is on the bright link. You'll be fine. If you did not block the chain and it dropped down then you were screwed to begin with. You will have to remove the front cover and get that tensioner reset properly and the lower bright link put on the (DOT) on the lower sprocket. sounds like this might be the case. Make sure the front piston is all the way up. (TDC) Is there a full procedure on timing chain replacement on this site? You should probably look over it. Or get a haynes manual off eBay ($5)

I just did my turbo swap this last weekend. The coil wires are easy. Look at this page. http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/ Here is that guy's wiring drawing On the 8 plug connector just up from the ECU that doesn't go to anything I only hooked up one wire. The Yellow with white stripe wire (the one closer to the black wires, I marked it yellow on the pic above) goes to the yellow with white on the coil harness. You do have the coil harness from the turbo Z, right? The black with white strip on that is power, the blue is ground. Splice your factory coil's + and - to the black and blue wires on that turbo harness. Those three total connections are all you need there. If you got the ECU to turn on, and the fuel pump on, you're set! It helps if you have the other end of that plug from the turbo dash harness. I grabbed that part so I spliced off the back end of that plug and then once it was wired into my coil wires, I just plugged it in. But without it, you can still just plug a single wire in to the correct spot and then tape it up good so it won't pull out. As long as you oil pump was installed correctly so your ignition timing is right, you should be good for a drive. the other funky connectors by the coil are for the factory boost sensor which sends a signal to the boost gauge. You do not need that for the car to run. The ECU does not detect boost at that point.... does it even detect boost at all? is a very simple ECU

kitty litter will help

My oil pressure comes off the bottom of the gauge after it has idled for about 2 seconds. So, crank it at 700-800 rpm

the waste gate is on the exhaust housing of the turbo itself to release pressure when max boost is reached. If the waste gate fails and keeps boosting, the POV will release the pressure from the manifold.

No, the fuel pump modulator (above the turbo ECU) was not used at all. I'm just using the factory 280ZX NA relays. The turbo ECU wired into it by the battery and it powers on as usual. I swapped in the 'turbo' fuel pump but that made no noticable difference. I was under the impression the turbo cars had a higher flowing pump. So what I ended up doing is advancing the ignition timing as far as I could. That solved my poping problem, mostly. It drives pretty good now but lacks power under boost... I really need to get a timing light and a fuel pressure gauge now to tune this further.

ya, the 1/8 BSPT I ordered from McMaster fits the L28 block perfect. so I need the 1/8 NPT T block, and a new sender unit.... and a couple straight through fittings. NPT to -4 AN. anyway, the rest is easy to get. Thanks for the help. oh, my turbo Z is running better now. No more poping but the power still isn't there. It needs some tweaking. (its all stock now, so it really shouldn't be this hard) but it is good to be driving it again after the engine swap

thanks for the explanation. That makes sense. I've got the '83 ECU so it has the dizzy CAS. I did end up wiring in the turbo coil wires and it worked perfect. It wasn't as hard as I thought.