yellowoctupus

So, after about two dozen times taking the odometer drive all apart, and back together etc I finally got it working. Took three tachs at the junkyard before I found one with good gears. Guess this isn't such a rare failure, eh? One of the gears I got looks like it's already been replaced too. Beats the heck out of me paying for repops! The cheapest I could find was $43 for the set. Neither one is bigger than a nickle. Crazy. I also took about a day to spruce my gauges up, fixing the 'gaps' left at the bottom, and getting the turn signal lights working with the stock Datsun arrows and getting a check engine and hi beam light on. They look really good in the car, down in the pods you can't even tell there's seams from things being pieced together. This picture is with flash so you can see what I did to get things 'right': I had my haz lights on to get this one. Should have turned on the hi beams and ignition for the other two, but that's ok. T Bird Gauge Cluster, Mark VIII should also work. Make sure to pick one that has the odometer and trip on the same gauge face. Mustangs have them split and they run together on a long rod IIRC. Kinda weird, and not good for splitting into separate pods. Backside shots. I liked the way the gauge pod worked out using the deeper pod, and cutting the hole in the back, but the light bulb placement seems to be better on the speedometer. (brighter at night) maybe some higher output bulbs would help too. These light mounts were a pain, but as mentioned before, they were positioned better for the Ford gauges. Maybe just moving the bulbs around on the other pod would help too. They work nice and smooth, better than most aftermarket gauges I've dealt with. Not as 'quick responding' but also not jumpy. VDO inner mechanisms/ electronics.

I emailed hydratech in regards to something on their FAQ page: Q: Can I install this kit if my car does not have power steering? A: You must have power steering installed and operational in your vehicle in order for this system to operate. I expected a quick answer from them, but I got a big ol reply back the next day. Very on top of things, that's for sure and pretty helpful! START EMAIL: That is an interesting build you are running – can’t say I’ve heard of one before! Yes – you are correct in your notion that these types of systems can run stand alone (without actual power steering). I wish it was as simple as plugging the high pressure output port that goes out to the steering gear, but this would have the same basic overall effect as plugging the high pressure output port on the PS pump (which would deadhead the pump and fry it in less than a minute’s time). Since the PS pump output cannot be deadheaded and these brake units are designed to be flow through devices, the high pressure output must be allowed to flow back to the power steering pump. In a standard scenario with a steering gear involved, the high pressure output would flow through the steering gear and then return back to the reservoir. FYI - When eliminating the steering gear from the loop, there is no way for the plumbing downstream of the brake unit to pressurize, as there will never be a load placed against it. Spoken the other way around, the only line that could ever pressurize up in a scenario where the steering gear box has been eliminated is the HP line between the PS pump and the brake assist unit’s HP inlet port – it will pressure rise in response to how hard you apply the brakes as a function of basic hydraulic actions, but no other line will build pressures (just flow). Ok, if I haven’t lost you yet, the line that would normally connect to the steering gear HP inlet port will now instead be redirected to connect to the PS reservoir’s low pressure return. If running a full size Saginaw P for instance, you would take the fluid flow out of the HP port on the brake unit that you were thinking about plugging off (that would normally connect to the steering gear HP inlet port) and simply connect it to the low pressure return nipple on the PS pump housing. This would make you think that you should still be able to T the LP return line from the brake unit’s brass nipple together with the other line, but we have found it gets crabby. The workaround here is to install a second low pressure return line nipple into the PS pump housing to accommodate the LP return hose from the brake assist unit… If you are doing such on a mini pump running a remote reservoir, this item makes this a breeze to plumb: Reservoir without hose kit: http://www.pscmotorsports.com/gen-iv-6-hydroboost-reservoir-w-filter.html Fancy polished version: http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pro-touring-p-s-remote-reservoir-w-filter-for-hydro-boost-brakes.html With hose kit: http://www.pscmotorsports.com/gen-iv-8-25-hydroboost-resvoir-hose-kit.html (AN-10 pump feed nipple / AN-6 return nipples) * Run the high pressure braided line that would normally go to the steering gear to the silver AN6 nipple in the middle on the bottom of the tank, run the low pressure return line from the brake unit to the gold colored AN6 nipple on the bottom right side of the tank = presto! All set J Attached to this e-mail is a drawing / picture that might help picture on a Fed / Sag P + here is a link illustrating a mini pump arrangement (imagine eliminating the rack in this drawing): http://www.hydratechbraking.com/tech.html The installation of one of our systems into a standalone scenario (without actually running power steering) requires that an additional dedicated AN-6 nipple be installed into the PS pump reservoir. The second high pressure line (that would normally plumb to the steering box or rack) will now be returned back to the PS pump reservoir unused instead of connecting to a steering gear. It is suggested that this additional hose nipple be installed approximately 1/3 the way up the reservoir - 1/2 way up the reservoir is considered the max suggested height. In your case, since you already have a factory "hydroboost spec" pump with twin return line nipples, you could obtain a AN-6 steel nipple and braze it onto one of your existing push on type hose nipples. The reason that this needs to be a secure AN type line connection to the reservoir is because of potential pressure / flow variances that will occur when the braking is actuated and released - push on / clamped connections for this line CAN work, though is not recommended per possible hose blow off while in use. Unlike OEM assist units, our assist units are specially prepared (proprietary mods) to run well either with or without power steering without worry of unregulated pump flow characteristics. If you are performing a DIY installation using an OEM based assist unit, your results may vary... You would plumb the system as follows: * High pressure line from the PS pump to the assist unit inlet port as usual * High pressure line from the assist unit high pressure outlet port to the dedicated AN-6 nipple installed into the PS reservoir * Low pressure return line from the assist unit to the PS reservoir as usual (may use a simple push on hose and clamp connection) If you should decide to run power steering at a later date, you would then re-route the high pressure line from the brake assist unit down to the steering gear, then run the low pressure return line from the steering gear back to the AN-6 hose nipple already installed prior = quick, fast and easy change if desired down the road. Also, you cannot simply plug the second high pressure port, as this will dead head the PS pump and burn it up almost immediately. These systems are designed to be plumbed in series, and they therefore must be plumbed as flow through devices... Let me know what further questions may come to mind – feel free to call to discuss. Jim Petty Retail Sales Manager jim@hydratechbraking.com

OK, It's all installed, just waiting on a new high pressure line to come in and my new (longer) belt. (Grr...I wanted to do the whole project in under two days. Oh well. If the high pressure line I got with my booster hadn't had the end broken off before I got it it would be all finished. I took an old booster and cut off the threaded 'input' push rod and yoke, and cut off the Mustang push rod and welded them up together: Since there's three lines at the booster (high P in from pump, low P return to reservoir, high P to steering rack) I just took the high P to steering rack and returned it to the reservoir. Hopefully it'll work ok without backfeeding into the low pressure outlet or anything funny. The original return line is setup to take the return from the booster and the rack, so I cut off the original rack line, and gave it a bubble flare to keep the line from slipping off. (The bubble flare thing actually worked better than I expected. It's really on there.) The attached PDF is a template for the new hole pattern that needs to be drilled in the mounting flange. It's graph paper, 1/4" per square. The Datsun pattern is 100mm wide, 70mm tall on M8 bolts and the center hole is offset 9mm low. (see template) I just pounded the old studs out, then drilled 21/64" holes and pounded them into the new holes. They're not as tight as the factory bolts, but they're not going to fall out and certainly not going to spin so they're good enough for government work. hydrobooster.pdf

Since my vacuum booster has a bad end seal, instead of replacing it with another vacuum booster, I was thinking of running the hydraulic (or 'hydrobooster') that came on the v8 SN95 Mustangs. I have all of the components, however ran into a minor bump in the road, and was wondering if you guys had any ideas. There's three lines going into the booster assembly. 1. High pressure line from the pump. 2. Low pressure return to the reservoir. 3. High pressure to the steering rack. Since I do NOT have power steering, what should I do with line #3?? I don't think I can block it off, as it would put a ton of strain on the pump (like when you go full lock on a p/s car, it makes the pump whine). But on the other hand, I'm not sure if I can just tee it to the return line and have it go right back into the tank. I want to get going on this install ASAP, as I start working again next week, so any help / ideas would be greatly appreciated!

POST GRAVEDIGGER!!! (Think I spent some time searching tire sizes to find this one????) Anybody else running tall tires to help with gearing? I currently have 215 60 14's but was thinking of going to a 225 70 14 to get highway revs down. That and trying to find a 3.364 R200 diff. Tires first though probably.

After who knows how many miles on my Z conversion (10k?), I finally tore apart the speedometer (1994 T-Bird) to see why the odometer didn't work, and it turns out all the little gears were broken. Pretty cool how it does work though. There's a little motor that 'pulses' once a second or so (at 27mph) and turns the whole mechanism a little tiny bit every pulse. (Maybe a stepper motor?) Thankfully it's separate from the speedometer motor, so the speedo does still work. FORD--->Speedometer and Tachometer checking/ calibration site: http://www.accutach.com/Documents/TestingTachSpeedoR1.pdf Took me about an hour to find that old link via google today. BUT, the testing procedure for speedometers worked like a charm. I happened to have a regulated 12v supply (use an old computer power supply if you don't have a formal unit) and a 15VAC wall transformer out of a 'jump start pack'. I was going to take pictures for a 'how to' but these guys did a great job of that already: http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/Instructions/Speedo%20-%20Odo%20Repair%20Inst..htm

So, I went to the scrap yard yesterday looking for some aluminum and I just had to weigh the car across their scales. Front: 1430# Rear: 1520# Total: 2950# This was with 1/4-1/2 tank of fuel.

+1 I just started using my disc/belt sander for the last set of headers I had to modify and it worked fantastic. I used to use a hand 4" angle grinder and it was pretty difficult to get gaps less than 1/8" consistently. I don't use a band saw though, I actually prefer to use a hack saw with a high quality 18t blade. It cuts fast with a good blade and it's a lot easier to keep your lines straight because of the cutting speed. Maybe I just got too excited using a porta band the one time I tried header work with one, but I had a lot of post cut cleanup compared to hand cutting.

Wow, that is a nice bench. I have a 4' x 3' x 0.75" plate of steel sitting on top of an industrial metal 'work cart'. It was originally a convenient place to put it to get it out of the way, but beats the hell out of trying to move a 300# table around to make room near the welder for whatever big project I'm working on.

Depending on what you're milling and how often you need it to open that full 6", you might consider making a different set of jaws for your 3" vice. If you make some strong 'z shaped' jaws, it can work for most light to medium duty jobs.

I was actually asking what the injector diameter was where the o-ring seats, thinking you could find another o-ring. You have a bit of room to work with considering the Parker book recommends up to 30% squeeze in static applications. (minimum being about 0.007").

What is the injector 'inner' diameter where the o-ring seats?

Ok, I'll bite. What's exceptional fuel economy out of a 400ci engine? 20mpg? Is it mainly the 0.5OD in the T56 that helps out a bohemoth like that?

Doesn't take a ton to pop the hatch, especially if it's not latched all the way. I've found you'll pop the hatch at 90-100. All your stuff inside the car flys all over the place though. Not recommended!

If the test had been completed on a stock engine, I agree that from a harmonics stand point there might be more interesting data to analyze, however from a backpressure view, a higher horsepower (/ higher airflow) engine would be better suited to test with. Perhaps a greater test of flow would have been to choose all of these exhausts with a smaller inlet/outlet just for a head to head muffler design test. For example, it appears all of the tested exhausts can flow more than enough for this 375hp engine, therefore it is not unlike testing an exhaust flow through a 10" , 15" and 24" exhaust pipe. There would be NO appreciable difference seen between any of these tests as they will all flow more than enough, just like the mufflers tested above.

Thanks for fixing the link, that was a great article. Roughly speaking, if I remember right 3dB is equalivent to a double in sound pressure intensity. (not horsepower loudness or whatever they called it) "Better yet, all the mufflers handily outperformed an open exhaust, so you can tell that annoying guy in the neighborhood with the jacked-up Nova to put on some mufflers and he'll actually be faster." -Great!! Everybody likes pretty pictures, right?

Oh, cool, the tailgate mod starts at post #9. Thanks for the heads up LanceVance! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/76042-beaus-78-22/

This is great, not sure if it was over here on hybridz or not before, but it is now! This guy was putting in a 5.0 into his (76?) 2+2, but the cool part is at the end of this post: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-gallery/611035-beaus-68-coupe-2.html#post4086430 where he grafted the 'Datsun' from an old tailgate onto the rear valance on his Z! Neat-o!

I have the same problem in my 4.6 Z, I bleed my cooling system at the heater hoses which attach to the back of the block (and are of course the highest point in the loop).

Yeah, I found a few places that do re-webbing when I was considering redoing my Mustang belts. (I really liked the ~$20 route of extenders.) I have the seat back almost all the way too, but that makes your seat belt length shorter. Unless it's going around something with a high circumference of course...

I think I might go measure my seatbelt end, and try to find a 'modern' seat belt end that matches it (ie, if it's the same as a '95 F250, then great, I'll get extenders for the F250!). I'd rather not have to swap in 240sx belts, mechanisms etc. Was the reason they swapped seat belts just to be able to use extenders?

I would have thought this would be a common problem for shorter drivers in Z's but I can't find any information on seatbelt solutions anywhere! My wife is approx 5'6" and has short legs, so with the seat all the way forward, she can depress the clutch to the floor, but can't get the seatbelt on! Has anyone found seatbelt extenders or something to remedy this? It's a good way to keep your short wife from driving your car of course, but I would like her to be able to drive it. There's extenders for just about every other late model on eBay, get them shipped from the US for $17 brand new, but nothing listed for the older Z's. I have a 78, FYI.

In other forums you can add a little bit of 'code' to the web address to make it show more than the default 20 posts. (ie, &pp=40, &pp=200) Is there a way to do that here, or is it hardcode capped at 20?

FYI Ray, I have the EFI bible printed out if you want to borrow it sometime.