Ben280

Awesome info guys thanks!! Not sure if my fitment situation will allow me to pull them off, but a guy can dream right! Maybe when I switch to 16"s...

This car has to be one of my favorite Z cars out there. Mizuno Works S30, and I was wondering if anybody out there knows if these are commercially available or if they are custom! Done some searching but no luck.

I've got two! PM'd.

Fair enough! Good luck getting it taken care of, I'm looking forward to seeing this in running condition! (so post photos!)

Get a MAPP torch from Home Depot, and while your there, grab a small fire extinguisher! The real trick is quenching the nipple with cold water once you get it hot. Your right in thinking that the block will act as a huge heat sink, but with the surrounding metal hot, and then quenching the nipple, you should get some action. I totally understand your fear of the flammable, but any residual oil will burn off quickly. Just keep the flame away from gasoline! The fire extinguisher is always a useful piece of mind when dealing with open flames too. Alternatively, if you can easily weld a nut on there, that is a pro way to get it out! Good luck!

Sadly, yes you do need to keep the fusible links (seeing as you posted this a few days ago, you may have already realized this!) The fusible links control headlights, ignition, alternator charging and on the '76 one of them is for ignition and the EFI system. I suspect however, people who go through the trouble of converting the EFI system to carbs take the time to convert the fusible links as per the link below: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html follow the instructions in that guide and you can turn that ugly fusible link array into a nice shiny new fuse box setup! a good audio shop should have everything you need.

Cool! Sorry for the thread-jack AZGhost!

Aeromotive makes some great stuff! Anybody have a Pro/Con on a "deadhead" setup for delivering fuel to the carbs? I.E. no return line?

That should be about it. The EFI harness ties into the main harness with two "clips" hear the battery. This is the EFI power. That wraps around the engine bay then splits into the ECU output and that is about it! Should be able to pull it all out without any cutting at all! Still totally need the fusible links though, they power the ignition circuit and master power for the fuse block. Post some photos when you drop it in!

You have a PM!

I've got one in a block sitting in my backyard. If RB26powered74zcar didn't get back to you, let me know and I can pull it after work tomorrow! Looks like you'd expect, and if I can extract it neatly it will be in perfect shape!

Did a quick search but couldn't find anything that was the same as my situation. My passenger side rear wheel makes a LOT of squeaky noise when I decelerate with the clutch out, usually in 2nd gear. Its an oscillating noise, sounds like it might be a halfshaft or a wheel bearing. Doesn't make noise when the car is in neutral, so I'm not quite sure what to make of it! Any ideas? Thanks!

You have a PM!

Car is on its second starter. Swapped the car to manual, and had to replace the starter so I tried to save money and got an AutoZone one Solenoid went out so I warranty replaced it and now this is happening. If we can imagine for a minute that the starter makes a vrrm sound, when the problem presents, it goes VRRM....VRRM...VRRM....VRRM...VRRRRRRRRM!!!! (That last one was it starting!) Definitely is an "oscillating" noise. Havent noticed the lights dimming though. Might be another bad rebuild on the physical motor? Interested in the coolant temp sensor angle as well, what impact would that have? Don't think mine is working, since my coolant temp gauge hasn't worked since I bought the car! Thanks for the help, hopefully I can make some progress on it this weekend, gonna be a rainy one!

Ok so heres the deal. The car starts always, but there are moments where it takes a bit of encouragement. Dont have any of the cold start system hooked up anymore so starting always takes a couple more cranks than usual initially, but it always fires after 2-3 cranks. However, after the car has been running for a while and everything is nice and warm under the hood, when I shut the car off and try to start it in 10-15 minutes the motor is VERY hesitant to turn over. Painfully slow cranks, almost as if the battery can't turn the starter, but if I hold the key in the "Start" position, the cranks speed up after 4-5 and then it fires and runs healthy. If I let the car sit for 45 minutes or more the problem does not appear. I thought it might be a heat soak issue so I wrapped the starter motor in a DEI heat shield blanket, but the issue persists. Voltage and cranking amps are fine, battery is a Deka EXT16L. Any ideas?

Dang! That is super sick! Thought with the second hand it might have been a rally thing, but I didn't realize they were a factory option! Congrats on having some super rate bits for your car! Makes me want to visit the local pick n pull lotto and see if there are any rare bits!

More info for those of us (namely me) who have no idea what this is other than thinking the clock on the left is totally awesome looking?

I have 2 of them in the coffee/brown color! good shape too! Do you need any of the handle things, cause I don't have those haha!

Sweet! Been seeing a lot of this car lately so I'm glad to have some of its history! I had an unfortunant run in with a bridge expansion joint which resulted in a new merge collector being put on my header. Instead of continuing the twin pipes down, where it turns into one pipe, it contours really close to the transmission. Full custom exhaust will fit the bill nicely though. I'm interested to see what you do with the frame rails, since I've been thinking about shortening them somehow. Good luck!!!

When I did this conversion in my car, I was having lots of issues, mainly with a factory splice in the white with red stripe wire coming off the alternator. (runs to a small ring terminal on the right side of the alternator). This is the wire that carries power from the alternator through the fusibale link system, into a the fuse box and charges the battery. The splice I replaced was about a foot from the alternator. If the battery isn't charging I would investigate this wire. Check and clean all your connections while your at it and check all your fusible links. I'm a little confused too by your statement of "not getting a charge light". The charge light in the voltage gauge should only be illuminated when the key is in the "On" position with the motor not running. If the light is off with the car running, then all is well within the charge circuit. If the light is illuminated all the time, something is wrong there! Check voltage across the battery and compare to voltage at the alternator. They should be within a couple tenths of each other, and generally around 14.5-14.8v If the battery is low investigate the above connections.

Kuro/Christine, is this the car that was posted on JDMChicago a few weeks ago/been circulating the internet? My 280z is low enough that when I had a "custom" exhaust it was pretty low hanging and would scrape 95% of the time. The main issue for me ended up being the header merge collector (MSA 3-2 header) was too low. I chopped a good amount off the two header pipes and made a custom Y pipe/merge collector and then rebuilt the exhaust, making sure to tuck it as close to the rear cross member and dif as possible. Of course this was easier because I had access to a welder and a pipe cutter, but it should be pretty easy. good luck!

I'm fairly new to the Z car scene, but it seems to me that the L6 motor is just cool! Motor swaps are all the rage and 2JZGTE, RB26DETT, SR20DET and V8 swaps abound for these cars. Seems at this point in time that the straight 6 is starting to become a rare breed and at least in my neck of the woods (and among the younger car guys) it doesn't seem that anybody is building L6 motors anymore! I wanted to keep the car true to its roots and build a badass NA motor!

If you have a few alligator clips and wires, you can test out which wires connect to the reverse lights and the neutral safety switch. If you can, just grab the whole pedal box and swap it. Your wrists and back will thank you as swapping pedals (at least for me) was the worst thing in the world! You will have to custom bend a hardline from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. IIRC a 4' section of line from NAPA does the trick. And in that vein of thinking I replaced the stock rubber hose piece with a stainless one from MSA. Good luck!

I have a pair. used to be white, then got painted black. Good shape, have all the mounting studs! From a '77 hood. (Can have to hood too if you want, its straight!)

Sent you an email, I have a Dizzy and a pully from a fresh L28 block.