Ben280

So far, I haven't had any issues with the fuel cell foam. However, I have only used clear 92 and VP 110 gas. When I spoke to the people over at Fuel Safe, they said that any ethanol content at all would cause problems. I'm trying to get up to one or more of the Bremerton events this year, although we had an event at the end of last year at Packwood where myself, zredbaron and JonMortensen were in attendance! Need to coordinate a big Z autox weekend at some point.

Man been a while since I updated. Must be having too much fun racing to post here. For those who don't know, following BrokenJawRacing on instagram and facebook will get you SLIGHTLY more frequent updates, and sometimes a video if I can manage it. Since we last hung out, well, lots has happened. Firstly, got the car tuned with the ITB's. English Racing in Camas WA has been my go-to shop for this for the past couple years, and they did a great job getting it set up out of the box. Put down 223whp and 200tq. For comparison, we popped off the filter and picked up 4hp and 3tq, but I think the longevity of the motor is more important than a pretty minor HP gain. First couple events of the year were wet, so we couldn't even make use of all the power. The car did earn a new nickname while it was wearing some street tires, and now has a "hovercraft mode" if it gets too wet outside. First dry event that we had with even a slightly warm/grippy tire and we broke the u-joints in the drivers side halfshaft. These were recently rebuilt with good MOOG joints, so I was a little disappointed that they failed so soon. It was a good excuse to buy the Wolf Creek Racing CV kit, especially considering the next event was in California on even grippier concrete. Hovercraft mode with some 15x6.5" 240sx SE wheels on the car Dry weather = broken u-joints Futofab kit, mmmmmmmm shiny The Crows Landing event was a lot of fun, if a bit stressful. Had some early issues with the tune, since I was finally able to run at wide open, I found that the tune was loading up and dumping way too much fuel into the car. Once we leaned it out it ran great. The ITB's are funny, and require a fair bit of maintenance to keep optimal, particularly as weather/barometric pressures change. Also ran into a fuel pickup issue, where the fuel cell foam caused the holley hydramat to sit on top of the fuel when its around 3 gallons. Once all those got figured out, it was just a matter of running the course and keeping up with a very fast XP field. Crows Landing NASA Test Facility. Best concrete on the west coast The rest of the season went pretty smoothly. Sticky, hard throttle cable got replaced with a custom Pegasus piece, perpetual tuning and fiddling with the ECU and ITB's, it will be interesting to see where the car sits when I bring it in for its annual baseline this winter! The Packwood NT and ProSolo were a lot of fun, did well at the tour, managed to hang onto the back of what I think is the car to beat nationally in the class. The Pro was fun on its own, didn't place well, but the R2 category is one of the hardest classes IMO. Fixing the throttle cable at the Packwood ProSolo, with the PRE Evo behind us. More of the field for the ProSolo, K swapped Lotus and FD RX-7 with a monster turbo. The FD driver has been a national champ more than once with that car. This winter has been "light" on the upgrades, compared to the past two years. The major outline is to change out the Arizona Z Car struts for Koni double adjustables, and build a new exhaust. Lots of other little maintenance projects and cleanup as well, but those are the highlights. Excited to get the car back on the ground soon, and see where these changes put me!

Tried to send a PM but says you can't receive messages! I've got an 11mm o-ring Pallnet rail in my garage, which would be great, unless you're looking for one that works with the OEM injectors.

I think the RP968 team that was running this at WTAC ran into oiling issues during the event. Hope they come back next year and have it working! Would be awesome to see its potential.

There's a thread on here somewhere with somebody a similar subaru engine swap. It is FAR from drop in, FAR from easy, almost 100% custom, and this attempt ended as badly as anybody could expect, with the donor Z rusting to death in a ditch. If you have everything out of the car, and want to embark on a multi year project, I'd love to see you have some success! Project Binky is a great resource for what problems you can expect to encounter. Ken Blocks Hoonicorn build is another great example of trying to jam an AWD driveline into a non AWD car. http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/12/the-hoonicorn-rtr-build-story/ The Fast and Furious guys did a similar treatment with the AWD charger in the most recent film. Also remember that all these examples are being built by PRO shops with a lot of $$$ behind them. They have lots of time, lots of expertise and lots of planning! I'd advocate drawing it up in CAD first, before you ever set torch to steel.

Great tip! Just picked some up.

I'd look into Hoosier R7's. A 225/45R15 will fit nicely on a 15x7, and is 22.8" tall for nice gearing. Tread width is 8.6" Fairly inexpensive option at $260/each. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=R7&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=245ZR5R7&tab=Sizes http://www.hoosiertire.com/assets/Circuit%20Racing%20For%20Web%203%2029%2017.pdf Another good option if you are concerned with budget (not sure about skill level/experience/wallet size etc) would be Spec Miata takeoffs which are the right size (205/50R15) and should be really inexpensive. http://www.jbracingtires.net/ John is a great resource for used tires if you can't find anybody local to you that uses them.

Chickenman, good call with the pyros! That's on the list for sure, but it is a pretty expensive piece of kit to add. Good reminder, and easy to hook up through CANBUS. I'm going into the dyno in a week, I'll keep everybody posted with what happens, and if the tuner has opinions!

The Reverie piece is really nice. My one issue is that the #1 and #6 stacks sit really close to the edge, and on mine I had to file down the inner radius to get them to sit flat. As a general work of caution with it, make sure you have a way to get to the velocity stack hardware! I had to use allen button heads with a ball ended allen wrench. The sausage filter is awesome and very easy to fit! I'm excited to do an on/off dyno run with the filter.

Oh man, where to start! Left you guys hanging here, and months later the car is back together and running! Lots of stuff happened with no photos, but I’ll try to give you the high points. We left off when the original 2.8 had blown up and I had found a new engine. A 13.8:1 Rebello auto-x engine in a friends car and 240sx transmission was going to make an excellent upgrade to this machine! A big fixture of this rebuild was the ITB’s! Thanks to the HybridZ classified section, I scored a set of OER ITB’s that used the FC RX-7 injectors that I was using already. I had to get ahold of a new manifold, and sourced a Kameari unit from a yahoo Japan auction. Once I had that piece I was able to get runner lengths and found that the 75mm Techno Toy velocity stacks were going to give me a good powerband with optimal induction wave at 5500rpm. My excitement to blow up the new engine by not running filters was super minimal, so I was off to find a good filter scenario that would with with the fuel rail. Most of the traditional carb filters have interference issues with the rail, and I didn’t want to run the sock filters that most ITB’s require. ITG is a top name in the filter game, but their traditional filters weren’t going to work. Luckily some searching revealed that they make a “Sausage” style filter, which is curved for a more clearance. I also found a company in the UK called Reverie that makes carbon airboxes for formula cars. Fortunately for me, lots of the stuff they make fits on inline 6 formula cars, so I was able to pair up a couple custom UK pieces to keep this engine rolling! Also had to figure out getting MAP signal from the ITB’s. The Megasquirt ITB tuning mode uses MAP pressure up to a certain percentage, then switches to AlphaN/TPS position. I got ahold of a vacuum log/accumulator that I can run all 6 ITB’s into, and get a good MAP signal up to about 30-35% throttle. Was also able to spend some time working on the exterior and maximize my aero allowances! Rules say I get 10” of spoiler, so I’m taking everything I can get! Using NASCAR truck spoiler adjustment rods, pretty excited about how it turned out. Also added Techno Toy Tuning tow points for ease of recovery! Not that prepared cars ever break down Finally got the whole rig running over the weekend, and it’s idling nicely! Syncing the ITB’s was an essential step, needed to get a snail gauge on it and get everything working well. https://youtu.be/MS7ahQA511E

Lots of good ideas in here guys, thanks! Money and wires are definitely issues to concern myself with. I've got a PLX SM-AFR and an Innovative LC-2 at my disposal, just need to decide if the data I can get is something I'll use, or if it's a case of "more for more's sake". Jacky4566- Was looking at the Spartan 2's they seem like a great deal, particularly when you don't need anything crazy! Wish I saw them before I bought my LC-2 last year =( Not a street car anymore, so frankly, fuel economy is the last thing on my mind, but full lean conditions tend to yield the most power. They are best before they blow philosophy. Seattlejester- with the MS3X I get 8 injector and coil drivers, so if I had a cam signal I could run full sequential. As is I just have crank trigger signal so I have to run batch fire and wasted spark. The MS3x board has an input for a 2nd wideband as well, so I can look at a single log for everything! Madkaw- the OERs are pretty nice so far, I'm updating my build thread with the past 6 months of progress, including ITB setup!

Little about my setup for background, and those not familiar with my build. MS3.57 with the MS3x board for heaps of outputs. OER 45mm ITB's, Kameari intake, high comp Rebello engine. My new (to me) header is a Pace Setter 3-2 style that has 2 O2 sensor bungs right before the merge meaning I can pick a side and run 1 sensor, OR get all fancy and run 2, keeping track on 1/2/3 OR 4/5/6. I'm on more of a budget now than I used to be, and I'm wondering if anybody can help me justify running dual widebands, rather than a single. I'm thinking it would be helpful to keep tabs on all the cylinders, sort of a "more you know" philosophy, particularly if the ITB's start to drift out of trim. I'm also thinking that the ITB's shouldn't drift too much since everything is running off the megasquirt, rather than trying to line up a bunch of carbs. Input and experience appreciated!

BHJ Dynamics/Rebello have some off the shelf versions as well.

Thanks for putting this together! Awesome resource for future MSx installs. I've got the Hoke Performance crank trigger kit installed on a Professional Products SFI rated damper (PN: 90055). - install guide from Andrew. In your price breakout, there are also some taps and drill bits needed to install the kit, adds about $20 IRC.

I've had good luck with a zip tie. You could go with something heavier if you were worried, but I don't think there is a need.

I replaced one of the sensor on the bottom of the thermostat housing for coolant temp sensor. If you're out of space there, you could get a spacer in the upper radiator hose that has a bung. For an IAT sensor I welded a bung into the center of the bottom of the intake (between the #3 and #4 runners) and it seemed to work pretty well! EDIT: Looking at where you've got it located, I imagine you'll be all set. It might not react to the manifold heat soaking as quickly, but it should be ok!

After seeing the images, tube nuts won't work, and I don't think anything that requires a flare to be put on the end of the line will be possible. You might be better off welding fittings onto the rails.

Well after an exciting jaunt through the bowels of the internet and it's weird tracking nonsense, I'll post up another solution for 5/16 hardline to AN. You can use a -5AN Tube Nut and a -5/-6 Female Union. Similar to the previous solution, but one I'm personally familiar with. Either way you will need to do a 37º flare on the fuel line. Summit makes a tool for this, but I HIGHLY recommend the ratcheting RIGID tool. https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41162-377-Flare-Tool/dp/B001HWNS40 (for the love of pete, PLEASE go to the right link) Yes its spendy, BUT a good clean flare is essential to a quality fit and avoiding fuel leaks.

Halloween update! Been progressing slowly, everything is out of the car and ready to slowly start coming back together. I noticed a small leak out of one corner of the fuel cell, and needed to investigate. Got everything apart and pressurized the bladder. Sprayed throughly with soapy water and couldn't find anything. I suspect one of the fittings wasn't tight and fuel could leak out in between the bladder and steel cell. While the cell was out it is a good chance to investigate my fuel starve issue. I've been using a ford focus SVT fuel basket, which has a small built in surge tank. I think the pickups were clogged and it wasn't refilling the tank, because at free flow the pump was pretty weak. Took about 15 minutes to fill a 5 gallon jug... I jumped the gun and was looking at new pumps, but decided I should flow test the pump outside of the fuel basket. Night and day difference, was able to do a gallon in 45 seconds, so just under a 255gph pump. Looks like that will be staying with the car. I ordered a Holley Hydramat to replace the teeny factory pickup. It's a 3x15" version, and should let me run below 6 gallons in the cell pretty easily. Working on my "To-Order" list so I can get everything headed back into the car! Right now it looks like a new shifter assembly for the 240sx trans, velocity stacks and a filter.

Ahhhh yes, I see what your saying. Yes the Montgomery/O'Gorman car is a mighty foe, don't think anybody besides Kiesel has been as dominant in a class. There was one guy in FP running a SLA front end and I wish I got a better view of it. Might be a good time to go back to school and get an engineering degree!

Hoping to get some good results next season Tube80z! The suspension should hold up, need to do some swaybar tuning next year, and likely a shock upgrade will be in the works soon. Clarkspeed, I'm looking into that possibility, it would certainly be cheaper and easier for intake tuning!

Picked up a new (to me) motor today! Rebello built 13.8:1 with Carillo running gear the original dyno sheet from 3 years ago shows 282hp at the flywheel with SU carbs. Hoping that EFI/ITB's and tuning will get it into the low 300's at the flywheel, and 270+ at the wheels. Excited to get my ITB's finished up and synced! Need to do a bit more research on tuning for pulse length before I throw down money for velocity stacks.

I think it was old tires, but the springs are definitely helping. Don't remember my lap times from when I was at the Enduro in 2013, but that benchmark is a good piece of info! I end up looking at a couple of the other prepared car drivers regionally, and comparing PAX time. Maybe next year I'll be able to get back down there!

SeattleJester, If you're ever out there, come say hello! RebekahsZ, our local club doesn't, but since it's a national event, the national crew puts down chalk lines.

Sad news everyone! My L28 has finally broken on me. Cause of failure has yet to be determined, but it is out for the rest of the season. I think its cracked compression rings, or something oil related, a tear down will tell the whole story. The car will miss nationals, but I'll still be going, just in an STS Civic! I'm also calling and emailing engine builders. if I have to rebuild a motor, then I'm going to rebuild a motor worth owning. I've got some video from this past weekend, but haven't downloaded it yet, so heres some footage from the SCCA National Tour stop! Combined, my runs were good enough for 4th place in XP. Looking forward to making some more mods this winter, and adding hopefully double horsepower to the equation!