Ben280
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Everything posted by Ben280
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Looking good!
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Drill and tap the intake runners!!! I'm assuming the intakes you are all using don't have bosses already, but that's where you should be drawing vac from if you don't have dedicated ports. The kit for the Jenvey ITB's from Datsun Spirit have these ports built into the manifold. Boogering up the ITB bodies are not the way to do this, the OER piece tioga mentioned is a nice way to add the port as well if you don't want to mess with drilling and tapping the intake.
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Fair! My motor rarely lives in a high vacuum area of the VE table, I guess I am/was assuming OP's motor will be in a similar state, which isn't a good position. In my initial post I think I was hung up on the idea of a rising rate FPR in terms of boost, and was confused why OP would want that on a NA car. (I also mis-read IAC as IAT, soooo maybe I should have my reading comprehension skills checked lol!) Thanks for clarifying and adding some facts!
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Jump on it, say thanks and don't look back! A quick craigslist search on the left coast shows precious little for under $5000, and nothing with even a third the parts you have in that car. Grab it, fix the rust and enjoy having your car back, it's a feeling I know numerous members of the car community wish they could have.
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Aftermarket Front Control Arms
Ben280 replied to Ben280's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Which one are you running on your spindles? Was tough to tell how they sized them from the website and I'm not THAT ready to take my hubs apart. I see they have a Datsun roadster one on the shelf? I do really like the advantage it provides when tightening the hub! It's been a real adventure seeing what will break on this car with the different loads that I'm subjecting it too. So far nothing critical, but I need to go through it again this winter! -
On a street driven car traditional plenum style intake sure! Referencing engine vacuum is useful while the car is at idle to improve fuel economy and maybe a LITTLE drivability, and in a boosted configuration it's essential to a safe motor. In my particular case, (NA, spends a lot of time at WOT) I would rather provide the ECU with a good MAP signal, and use the VE tables in the computer to control fueling. I think particularly with ITB's they develop such poor vacuum at really anything above 30% throttle, having the FPR reference anything is diminishing returns. For me, it's one more thing that can break, so I ignore it. I'm not a tuning wizard, but I've been running my fuel setup like this for 6+ years and have made pretty good power so far!
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Those look great! For getting good MAP signal, be sure to run all the lines together into some sort of manifold. ITB's are annoying to tune already, having weak MAP signal will make it 10x worse, particularly at low end where presumable the ECU is going to actually attempt to reference MAP. Not sure that you need vac signal to your FPR, most EFI installs want constant pressure. Personally, I would put the IAC sensor on a bracket near the intake horns. Something about trying to get a temp signal from vacuum seems off to me.
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Aftermarket Front Control Arms
Ben280 replied to Ben280's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Sorry, I was confused about the bearing spacer that you and Jon had mentioned. That part seems very trick, but I'll likely move towards a custom upright like you've pictured, so I'm not sure how much more optimization I care to give to these old parts. I think I'll take up up on that. PM sent. -
Aftermarket Front Control Arms
Ben280 replied to Ben280's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Thanks @tube80z! I was hoping you'd reply. Good tips on what to look for. I was thinking that the GTX2/AE arms are close enough to what I'd build that it might be worth it to just get them, and then modify as needed. The T3 stock style arms are a good option, and could likely be beefed up to suit my needs with some more structure and weld in sleeves for sphericals. No gussets on my struts yet, or bearing spacers yet, care to enlighten me on the bearings?! Sounds like a good mod for the off season! I need to do some testing and see where my bending is coming from. I'm using an aluminum hub and custom 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats. These issues became apparent after the most recent event in Canada with a couple almost full lock turns, so I suspect the "bending" is largely steering lock and some goofy interference. Car is in the air at the moment, I need to pull a spring and run the suspension through its range. @JMortensen I don't have issues with pad knockback, although with the scalloped rotors there is a LOT of feedback through the pedal. I'll keep y'all posted. -
It's time for a new set of front control arms on the Z. My rotors are flexing enough under load that they are grinding away the corners of the Arizona Z arms, so I need to change to different style. Looking between the Apex Engineered and the Techno Toy Tuning arms, but I'm torn on both so I'm reaching out to y'all! Initial thoughts are that the -Techno arms look to come with better heim joints (3 piece teflon lined) compared to the AE arms -AE ball joint is a circle track style (re-packable/greasable), Techno arms look to be a spherical bearing? Tough to tell from photos -AE arms look to be more rigid because of the way the tension rod mount connects to much more of the arm compared to the techno arms. Can anyone with experience with either of these share some thoughts on their likes/dislikes of these designs? Specifically curious about the heims/balljoints. THANKS!
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What ECU are you using? To me, splitting the engine harness to exit through two holes and then rejoin at different connectors sounds like an easily avoided nightmare. I'd suggest running everything out of the tunnel, unless you wanted to install some kind of bulkhead connector in the choke hole.
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Sorry, mis-spoke! I was using the LS1 coil packs, and upgraded to the Pertronix Flame-Thrower version (more voltage and better performance at high RPM), which outperforms the factory LS2 and is on par with the spiffy aftermarket LS2 replacements.
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Yes I am. Works pretty well, I was running into an issue with the LS2 coils not being hot enough, but switching to a Pertronix style seemed to have sorted it out. I think the 350z coils are super robust, so you should be all set! That bracket is amazing looking, kudos on some trick CAD work!
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I'm running the Hoke kit (mine came with a 36-1 wheel) but yes, the ECU can get by with just that for input! Cam sensors are useful if you wanted to do truly sequential fire, but I think that's overkill in most "normal" applications. Kit looks awesome, excited to have more ITB cars in the world!
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I'm back!! I use the car strictly as a race car. I used to drive it to events every once and awhile, but I've put a different transmission in it since then. It depends what variety of 240sx you're talking about. R200 parts are damn near lego status. Yes the gears are housing specific, BUT the open diff s13 has the same axle spline count and length as the 240/280z R200. So you just need to make a new driveshaft and front diff mount. The rear cover will also transfer from a 280z R200 to a s13/s14 R200.
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I'm running a 240sx transmission, a 3.90 diff and a 23.5" tall tire. 4th gear (which is 1.000 in the trans) does about 54mph at 3k RPM. A more normal tire size at around 25" would get you to 57mph at 3k RPM. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator Pretty good calculator for doing the math, once you know your transmission ratios. Can play around with rear end ratios and figure out what you want for top speed.
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It really comes down to the ECU and the tune you'll be running. I don't see why the cam and the ITB's will be at odds with each other, you might loose a little bit of low end with the 45mm bodies, but should be good to tune out. 100% you'll need a good tuner and a lot of logging to get these things running correctly. Should make for a rad engine!
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I weighed my 280 shell before and after I had the cage put in so I could keep an eye on what it all weighed. As a roller, no glass, no interior, but suspension/diff etc all in, the car weighed 1173# (see photo for car as weighed). Post cage that weight went up to 1293#, and as it sits now, in full fighting weight it's 2180.
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Hey Guys! Selling my lightly used knuckles. These were on the car for 4 auto-x weekends, and just have the light witness marks to prove it. These have a light interference with my brake rotors, hence the chamfer on the outside corner. Includes all the hardware that Dave sends with these (grade 10.9 bolts). Asking $125 shipped anywhere in the USA.
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When I drove @seattlejester 's car, it was a pretty apples to oranges comparison unfortunately, I'd need more data to make a real conclusion. A lot of people confuse understeer with bad weight distribution. You can have a 50/50 car that understeers like an absolute pig! With the build, try and keep the weight as close to the axles as you can, and low. That's gonna be the biggest help. As @OverkillZ mentioned, moving heavy objects off the nose will help with your weight, but at the end of the day, suspension will be the defining feature for handling characteristics. PS, look at all this tagging we can do now!
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Bummer on both counts! Saturday was a great day, was high overcast but fully dry. Afternoon test and tune was fun, I ended up messing with shocks a whole bunch. Sunday was real wet, but I did figure out some stuff with the rain tires. More events next year, so look out for those!
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Next opportunity to hang out with your Z buddies is just a week away! Slap that pre-reg link and save $5 off your entry fee! Pre reg link: https://scorekeeper.wwscc.org/register/or2018/events all sorts of good info: http://www.oregonscca.com/solo---autocross.html Let me know if you have any questions!!
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For your home testing, we use the "B" scale on Slow response at 50'. Measurement should be taken when vehicle is perpendicular to the meter at wide open throttle.
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Great pics! Don't remember your tire size, but TireRack is doing some sales and free shipping on orders over $50!
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HybridZ to the rescue! Excited to throw this tune on and see what she does!
