Ben280

I weighed my 280 shell before and after I had the cage put in so I could keep an eye on what it all weighed. As a roller, no glass, no interior, but suspension/diff etc all in, the car weighed 1173# (see photo for car as weighed). Post cage that weight went up to 1293#, and as it sits now, in full fighting weight it's 2180.

Hey Guys! Selling my lightly used knuckles. These were on the car for 4 auto-x weekends, and just have the light witness marks to prove it. These have a light interference with my brake rotors, hence the chamfer on the outside corner. Includes all the hardware that Dave sends with these (grade 10.9 bolts). Asking $125 shipped anywhere in the USA.

When I drove @seattlejester 's car, it was a pretty apples to oranges comparison unfortunately, I'd need more data to make a real conclusion. A lot of people confuse understeer with bad weight distribution. You can have a 50/50 car that understeers like an absolute pig! With the build, try and keep the weight as close to the axles as you can, and low. That's gonna be the biggest help. As @OverkillZ mentioned, moving heavy objects off the nose will help with your weight, but at the end of the day, suspension will be the defining feature for handling characteristics. PS, look at all this tagging we can do now!

Bummer on both counts! Saturday was a great day, was high overcast but fully dry. Afternoon test and tune was fun, I ended up messing with shocks a whole bunch. Sunday was real wet, but I did figure out some stuff with the rain tires. More events next year, so look out for those!

Next opportunity to hang out with your Z buddies is just a week away! Slap that pre-reg link and save $5 off your entry fee! Pre reg link: https://scorekeeper.wwscc.org/register/or2018/events all sorts of good info: http://www.oregonscca.com/solo---autocross.html Let me know if you have any questions!!

For your home testing, we use the "B" scale on Slow response at 50'. Measurement should be taken when vehicle is perpendicular to the meter at wide open throttle.

Great pics! Don't remember your tire size, but TireRack is doing some sales and free shipping on orders over $50!

HybridZ to the rescue! Excited to throw this tune on and see what she does!

Awesome weekend, was stoked that SeattleJester was able to make it out! Couple mechanical issues for both of us on Sunday, but I'm excited to get back up there for September. Hoping a few other members will be able to make it up as well!

Alright HybridZ, don't let me down! I've been battling with my ITB's for a little bit now and am getting properly frustrated. They are great at wide open, but have a really serious bog on tip in. This is very evident in a 1-2 shift under full power, rather than having smooth power once in 2nd gear, it jerks for a half second, then ramps in power. For auto-x this is super frustrating since there is a LOT of throttle stabs, modulation etc that accentuate the issue. A little bit about the motor, its a L28 Rebello built auto-x motor, 63DE cam, 45mm OER ITB's, 440cc high impedance injectors and LS1 coil packs. I'm running an MS3/3x. Tune and log are attached, I'd love it if somebody was able to look in this and tell me if I'm missing something obvious, or if something just looks off. I've had the car on several dynos, and the power is pretty good once it chokes through the stumble/bog. I'm going to have the injectors flow tested tomorrow, hoping that there is some sort of mechanical issue at play here. Coils were replaced recently and in testing, I've got VERY strong spark. Let me know if there's anything else that I can post up or answer! Thanks! Datsun Tune 2018-08-11.zip

Sunday we just run an AM session, usually packing up and hitting the road around 1-2. I'm usually back in PDX before 6! Reminder/bump for the weekend. Saturday will be fun, we are doing a region BBQ, so bring something and come hang out! If you'd like to save some time, online pre-reg is available! https://scorekeeper.wwscc.org/register/or2018/events

Loving this! Epic work sir, definitely will be following closely on your IG page. Front suspension looks amazing, I've thought about a double a arm kit, but that is next level! Really like all your progress pics for the body work, it's always great being able to learn! Are you just laying down fiberglass over the chickenwire forms?

Sounds good to me!! I think the supertrapps will have a huge effect. Another easy trick if you have space is wrapping the entire exhaust with header wrap. That will take a couple DB's out if you're right on the edge. It's annoying to be sure, but it is honestly just to help us be good neighbors and keep sites. Particularly where it's been a sensitive topic, we don't want to push the issue. So your efforts are very appreciated, hope you make sound in Monroe and come join us in August/September!!

We don't do fun runs on Sunday, helps people get out of there a little sooner! The competition portion of the event is usually around 6 runs, and the fun runs at the end of the day is usually at least that many. Classing headaches should be avoided at all cost. The SCCA rule book is a real serious read, particularly when you get into the prepared rules where the GCR comes into play! We haven't had anybody build a car for tuner challenge, its more or less designed to be a catch all for new drivers who's cars may or may not be appropriately classed. Some really common modifications, particularly around boost, put cars into REALLY high prep classes, so we tried to make it easy. Jon, you'd probably like the E-Mod rule set, although it doesn't allow wings. SCCA has been real hesitant to allow open aero in classes for fear of people spending heaps and heaps of cash.

Hey Albatross! No special requirements for entry, apart from a basic safety/tech inspection. We check for batteries properly secured, brakes/clutch have good feel, no play in the wheel bearings, throttle has positive return, no loose items in the car, tires aren't corded or dry-rotted. Pretty straightforward! As for classes, I run in FP. XP, BSP and CS are usually where these cars fall, but OR-SCCA has a special class called "Tuner Challenge" for people who are just learning the ropes of the sport, and don't want/need to get bogged down with the hefty SCCA rule book. SCCA classing is another whole can of worms that we should probably discuss in another thread! Admission for a day event is $15 for a SCCA weekend membership (unless you happen to have an annual membership) and $35 for runs. Packwood on Saturday's we run a test and tune after our competition runs, which is $20. As you might suspect, the weekend membership is good for both Saturday and Sunday, so that is a one time cost for the weekend, and that $15 can be applied towards an annual membership should you get bit by the bug! Couple useful links: http://www.oregonscca.com/solo---autocross.html (Main site with schedule, results and other fun stuff!) http://www.oregonscca.com/uploads/8/5/9/0/85902804/supps.pdf (Supplemental rules, worth the read!)

Dryer ducting turndowns work pretty well for this. New SCCA rules say it can go straight up or straight down. 95dBa is tough to hit if you've got some mufflers in. A cat and a turbo should be ok, and a turndown will get the rest of it if needed! Y'all should be good, the meter gets pulled out if something is rowdy loud.

Added a both response. Yeah, sound can be a real bastard to get, but supertrapps make a world of difference!

Awesome to see some interest!! In my opinion, a car is never really finished. So unless its not drivable, don't let that stop you from coming out and turning a few laps! Threw a poll up on the first post (this new HZ forum software is nice!) so vote for your preference.

Leon, you are correct and I would be remise to claim that the only reason for the Z's not being on par with newer cars is its strut suspension. All that is meant to imply is that at peak driver performance, a SLA front end WILL outperform a strut front end. Can mere mortals get to that point in driving? That remains to be seen. Going off topic, but the bigger issue for competition (for my case at least) is the lack of power. I'm at minimum class weight and with a 8.5/10 motor build, about 9lbs/whp, with the guys at the pointy end of the field closer to 6-6.5 lbs/whp. For auto-x the Z has a lot going for it; light weight, excellent weight distribution, narrow even with monster tires on it, and lots of space to modify and add parts. The class I race in allows for most of the foils in the suspension to be fixed, and the excellent aftermarket support these cars have found recently makes it easy to get the adjustable parts. I'm getting closer with the car, and still believe that the nut behind the wheel is the limiting factor. Once that ceases to be the case, I'll be sure to post pics of my front suspension conversion. I will say that doing a front end conversion like this is a fabulous way to add years of development to a car, if not well thought out, or completely ruin a good car if it's not thought out at all.

The strut setup on these cars is ok, but there's a reason they aren't competitive anymore. No camber gain in roll and the nightmare front hubs (hello, scrub radius called...) are challenges that can't be solved with this arrangement. The Apex Engineering is in my opinion the kit to get. It lets you lower the car and raise the inner arm pickup point to correct your roll center. I've drilled out my stock sub-frame, and that mod combined with the outboard roll center adjuster blocks make for a wizard handling car. You MIGHT be able to graft in a Miata front subframe, but you'll undoubtedly run into some hilarious issues with this. I say go for it, particularly if you've already exhausted the adjustments in the stock configuration! And post photos if you do.

Hey Everybody, Trying to organize some kind of meet up/race day with the fine folks of the pacific northwest! There are a handful of events that will likely work, so I'm throwing out some dates to see if there is any interest. The obvious site is in Packwood, WA. Phenomenal site, huge courses, free on site camping and equidistant from PDX and Seattle. Oregon Region SCCA has a few more events up there this year that might work well. Possible dates for a race day: August 11/12 September 15/16 Let me know if there's interest, I'll be there either way!

I'm more excited to see people come out and have a good time! As my project shows, these cars are always evolving, so you gotta take time and smell the race gas.

I have the T3 45mm, steps down perfectly to the OER ITB setup. Excited to see how they stack up in your testing!

On a side note, I'm wondering about organizing a Z-day/Auto-x meet up at one of the Packwood events later this summer. The site is phenomenal, great pavement and a cool chance to test out your Z. Matt and Jon were out to an event last year, and we mentioned the potential of getting a bunch of people together for a day. Its about 2.5 hrs from Portland and Seattle, free camping on site, and has high BBQ potential!

Once I got back from California, the mods started right away. First was getting more travel in the suspension. I had my friend who machined the top hats make some spacers to adjust them down 1.5". This let me move the spring perch down 1", effectively gaining more droop travel and raising the car .5" (it was really low before!). With the droop travel solved, I went after the bump. There's lots of room in the car for that, I just had to cut some more body out to get there! The rear of the car is essentially tubbed now, no more conservative ZG flare cut for this Z! Full (pre mod) droop to ride height. Full compression came right before the tire hit the body. Not enough! Little bit of persuasion with a grinder, hammer, MIG welder, more hammer, more welder and some foil tape and we got suspension travel for days! Another big modification that needed to be addressed was the rear roll center. I've done the common modification of drilling holes in the front cross member to get better angle in the control arm, and the car really turns as a result. The rear however was a mess, and would "fall over" in roll, causing the car to porpoise under heavy acceleration. Not ideal! The solution was partially raise the rear of the car, and then lower the outboard control arm mount. I drilled out some 1.5" cold rolled steel on the lathe, bored it to 5/8" and welded it to the bottom of the knuckle. Heavy metal! Three passes with the knob cranked to 11 (on a 220v machine). Much better control arm angle. The factory hole at this ride height is about level, and .5" lower was angled 5-8* upward. Had a chance to test out all these mods two weeks ago at the NWR ProSolo, and I have to say it went real smoothly. Particularly in comparison to the California event 3 weeks prior! The ProSolo revealed a couple more flaws, but the mod list is getting shorter and shorter each event. Really looking forward to the Packwood NT/ProSolo events in July!