Ben280

I'm aware of that, should have clarified, the bolts I'd like to use are those from the s13 rear end, and fit the OBX better than the 280z bolts. I've done some reading, and it sounds like the ring gear is pretty tough to drill, but anybody have any success?

Awesome!! Saving that part number! It looks though like they don't make the left side? Very interesting! Thanks Socorob!

So I am well aware of the fact that the Inner Tie rods for the 240/260/280 are NLA from almost all sources, but I am wondering if somebody has found a solution for a worn out inner tie rod! Seems crazy that either everyone has perfect tie rods, or is living with crap ones. I've had a couple of ideas, but none of them are easy/require lots of machining. Looking for a good solution!

One thing you might check that is in a different direction is the U joints in your halfshafts. I've been dealing with a oscillating squeaking squealing noise for a while, sounded like it was coming from the rear strut towers, but my U joints were the culprit. Metal on metal action. Its easy to check, unbolt the halfshaft and if the mounting flange is loose or rattly replace the joint. Just a thought! Hope you find your squeak!

Just a thought, has anyone tried drilling out and re tapping the ring gear to accept 12mm bolts? I have a set from a s13 diff that I would like to try and use. I can think of a couple issues that slow and methodical work would fix, but any major problems I should be aware of?

DOOOOOOOD!!!! This is soooo sick! This was the FIRST Z car build that I found, and it was a huge inspiration to get my start in the Z car game. I'd checked back in a few time but with no updates and now I stumble across it again and I see these fantastic videos! Congrats on a super original swap and the excellent documentation. I tip my hat to you sir!

Epic bump from the dead! Would love to know if there are any updates on this project! Looks incredible!

Awesome info guys thanks!! Not sure if my fitment situation will allow me to pull them off, but a guy can dream right! Maybe when I switch to 16"s...

This car has to be one of my favorite Z cars out there. Mizuno Works S30, and I was wondering if anybody out there knows if these are commercially available or if they are custom! Done some searching but no luck.

I've got two! PM'd.

Fair enough! Good luck getting it taken care of, I'm looking forward to seeing this in running condition! (so post photos!)

Get a MAPP torch from Home Depot, and while your there, grab a small fire extinguisher! The real trick is quenching the nipple with cold water once you get it hot. Your right in thinking that the block will act as a huge heat sink, but with the surrounding metal hot, and then quenching the nipple, you should get some action. I totally understand your fear of the flammable, but any residual oil will burn off quickly. Just keep the flame away from gasoline! The fire extinguisher is always a useful piece of mind when dealing with open flames too. Alternatively, if you can easily weld a nut on there, that is a pro way to get it out! Good luck!

Sadly, yes you do need to keep the fusible links (seeing as you posted this a few days ago, you may have already realized this!) The fusible links control headlights, ignition, alternator charging and on the '76 one of them is for ignition and the EFI system. I suspect however, people who go through the trouble of converting the EFI system to carbs take the time to convert the fusible links as per the link below: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html follow the instructions in that guide and you can turn that ugly fusible link array into a nice shiny new fuse box setup! a good audio shop should have everything you need.

Cool! Sorry for the thread-jack AZGhost!

Aeromotive makes some great stuff! Anybody have a Pro/Con on a "deadhead" setup for delivering fuel to the carbs? I.E. no return line?

That should be about it. The EFI harness ties into the main harness with two "clips" hear the battery. This is the EFI power. That wraps around the engine bay then splits into the ECU output and that is about it! Should be able to pull it all out without any cutting at all! Still totally need the fusible links though, they power the ignition circuit and master power for the fuse block. Post some photos when you drop it in!

You have a PM!

I've got one in a block sitting in my backyard. If RB26powered74zcar didn't get back to you, let me know and I can pull it after work tomorrow! Looks like you'd expect, and if I can extract it neatly it will be in perfect shape!

Did a quick search but couldn't find anything that was the same as my situation. My passenger side rear wheel makes a LOT of squeaky noise when I decelerate with the clutch out, usually in 2nd gear. Its an oscillating noise, sounds like it might be a halfshaft or a wheel bearing. Doesn't make noise when the car is in neutral, so I'm not quite sure what to make of it! Any ideas? Thanks!

You have a PM!

Car is on its second starter. Swapped the car to manual, and had to replace the starter so I tried to save money and got an AutoZone one Solenoid went out so I warranty replaced it and now this is happening. If we can imagine for a minute that the starter makes a vrrm sound, when the problem presents, it goes VRRM....VRRM...VRRM....VRRM...VRRRRRRRRM!!!! (That last one was it starting!) Definitely is an "oscillating" noise. Havent noticed the lights dimming though. Might be another bad rebuild on the physical motor? Interested in the coolant temp sensor angle as well, what impact would that have? Don't think mine is working, since my coolant temp gauge hasn't worked since I bought the car! Thanks for the help, hopefully I can make some progress on it this weekend, gonna be a rainy one!

Ok so heres the deal. The car starts always, but there are moments where it takes a bit of encouragement. Dont have any of the cold start system hooked up anymore so starting always takes a couple more cranks than usual initially, but it always fires after 2-3 cranks. However, after the car has been running for a while and everything is nice and warm under the hood, when I shut the car off and try to start it in 10-15 minutes the motor is VERY hesitant to turn over. Painfully slow cranks, almost as if the battery can't turn the starter, but if I hold the key in the "Start" position, the cranks speed up after 4-5 and then it fires and runs healthy. If I let the car sit for 45 minutes or more the problem does not appear. I thought it might be a heat soak issue so I wrapped the starter motor in a DEI heat shield blanket, but the issue persists. Voltage and cranking amps are fine, battery is a Deka EXT16L. Any ideas?

Dang! That is super sick! Thought with the second hand it might have been a rally thing, but I didn't realize they were a factory option! Congrats on having some super rate bits for your car! Makes me want to visit the local pick n pull lotto and see if there are any rare bits!

More info for those of us (namely me) who have no idea what this is other than thinking the clock on the left is totally awesome looking?

I have 2 of them in the coffee/brown color! good shape too! Do you need any of the handle things, cause I don't have those haha!