Bernardd

That's correct.

I run 45deg's advance until the boost kicks in. That brought my spool down by 800rpm. Previously I ran 30degs max with no boost. Afr's are low 13's to high 12's before boost at wot. I have a small amount of meth/water inj starting on boost so perhaps I can get away with more than most so this just a guideline. More timing = quicker spool in my experience.

any pics of these seals installed? i'm installing a set shortly and need to know how far they need to go down. i've never done this before and don't want to screw it up. bernard

What PSI? Original coil? Wires? Sparks Plugs? (heat range, brand) Gapped to _____? Fuel? Which wideband are you using? If it's the LM-1 and you're watching the display rather than reading datalogs, that could be a problem. I can't remember which way the reading went from the datalog but it was different from what the display showed. At first guess I'd say you're ignition isn't up to it, but usually you can tune that out with a tighter spark plug gap. Do you have datalogs you can post?

that sucks. how much timing were you running?

With the stock inj's the afr's where 12 to 1 dropping to 11 to 8ish at 15psi.

You should add what you had for fuel injectors and where the timing is set to................

http://z31.com/4n71b/ http://www.keas.com.au/ I have the rebuild info for the jatco 3n71b and I also have an old shiftkit made by b&m that's working really well. Bernard

Can you post the sheet with the afr's?

I'm afraid to ask this but now that I have your attention and all: Is it worth trying a diy port job? And don't be so vague, we need details man. Bernard

Seeing as this thread has some great info in it already I'll ask another question to hopefully add to the content. Is it worth attempting your own polishing with a port and polish kit from SA? I have a spare head to practice on but I'm not sure of the benefits in my case. I'm using an otherwise stock L28et with a hybrid turbo shooting for 400rwhp. Is it worth spending the time and effort? I won't be trying any porting, I will be upgrading to a 60mm tb and I have a full mandrel exhaust 3" in the works. I want to order this kit and try it if the experts chime and say it's workable if not I won't bother and look elsewhere to upgrade power. Bernard

I currently have 2" pipe in my I/C setup and at 19psi I lose 2 psi. I don't see the benefit of running huge piping when the turbo outlet is 2" and the tb is similar. I know there are others on the board that have dyno'd over 400rwhp with 2". All the same I'm changing mine 2.5 this winter because I'm planning on running well over 20psi next year. Bernard

i've got a 84 block sitting in the garage that you could come and pick up for a few bucks. it might be a looooong drive for you, i'm in canada. i agree with the na idea. just keep the boost down or use methanol/water instead of a cooler. several guys i know are running it with just the front washer pump/pressure switch and a nozzle or two at 15lbs and having no problems. bernard

You can use it but it will have be tuned entirely via the fuel and timing maps. That ecu is difficult to change the maf, scale the kvalue for larger injectors and such. The way it is wired you do not have access to the addresses from 7E00-7FFF. These addresses contain the constants and scalars that make a better tune. If you're not going beyond 370cc injectors and not much bigger than stock on the turbo you'll be ok. You'll have to become intimately familiar with the nissan fuel map equation. I don't have it handy but I can post it later if you or anyone wants to see it. Bernard

http://www.redz31.com/pages/fuel/ecucompatibility.html

Zcarnut: We have the same motivation. TheNeedForZ: You can use 88-89 NA ecu's. I am running a 88NA reman ecu on my car with no problems. As long as the 46510 chip inside is square it will work. BTW some 88maxima's work as well.

ecu page: http://www.redz31.com/pages/fuel/romulator.html

The maf is the same for the 85-88 maxima's and the 84-89 z31's. If you want an ecu for tuning some of the late 88 maxima ecu's work well. You have to know what you're looking for. I don't know what the # of the ecu should be but inside you will find a chip with the label 46510 and it should be square. If it's rectangular then don't bother with it. You will have to reprogram the ecu to suit your hardware. Bernard

set your tps to open at the same rpm difference as what stock says. example: if the fsm says that the tps should open at 900rpm and idle is 750, then set the tps to open at 150rpm above what the idle is now.

I'll keep you in mind. New project will be either the same powertrain in a first gen or a turbo v8 rx-7, or I'll turbo my 85 s15 truck.

I sent you an email with the pinout destinations and purpose. Hopefully that helps out.

I'm selling my Z and am wondering which is the better way to make some of my money back. Sell it as is with all the mods on it or sell it bit by bit until nothing is left. I'm not in a particular hurry but before next summer I want it out of my garage so I can start a new project. Mods include: 60-1/stage3 turbo 440cc injectors z32 maf tuned z31 ecu/z31 chopper wheel Holley 255lph high pressure fuel pump GN intercooler/piping Homemade progressive water/alcohol kit with m15 + m10 nozzles rebuilt 3n71b with a B&M shift kit 2.8k stall torque converter egt and boost gauges The turbo I can reuse in another project as well as the fuel pump, but the rest of it I don't think can or will and/or is easily to find and buy. The other thing I was considering is returning the car to a less modified state like stock injectors, turbo, j pipe, fuel pump and a stock 84 ecu and maf and selling it that way while keeping the rest for barter/ebay or something like that. I might be getting rid of all my electronic stuff as well but I have people locally to me that will most likely take it, but I doubt most people would consider the equipment as adding value to a car. What to do??? Bernard Edit: I forgot to add it's a 83zxt 2+2 with 180 km's on it. There are a few spots of rust underneath on a rear corner of the floor, and the rails are soft in the front part underneath the front passenger's feet area, but no rust at all on the exterior.

I don't have a graph but I can tell you that afr's where 12.3-12.5 from 3500 to 6k. Before boost timing is around 45-50deg's. At that time I dropped the timing to 30deg's from about 5psi to 15 psi, then at 20psi I dropped it to 24deg's. I run 36deg's right up to 20psi now.

My muffler was badly collapsed inside. The opening was about 1.5 to 2". Right now I don't have a muffler and it spools a lot better.