Bernardd

Alright I'm here. Piggyback with emanage is a waste of time. It won't get you to 400hp without major work. The stock maf with a tuned late 87 + ecu and bigger injectors will meter close 400hp. The megasquirt and a tuned z31 ecu will have the same driveabilty. On the cheap you could use an eeprom burner and eeprom to tune with a wideband.

Your car wants a z31 ecu. You know it does.

Any properly setup ecu will run the engine properly. Being a standalone doesn't make it easier or better or worse. The maf is easily upgradeable if it is found to be restrictive or out of metering capability. There are a lot of mail order nissan ecu's running cars into the 4-500hp range. The biggest benefit to a standalone is you can control other devices with it. nitrous, water injection, boost control etc. Cleaning up the engine would be a plus as well. You can most likely do that with the stock ecu as well. Either way if you're not going to tune it get an ecu that a shop is familiar with, or learn the ins and outs of the ecu you're going to use if you choose to do it on your own.

Is your ecu tuneable? You may have to purchase a daughterboard and a couple of eeproms and a burner. Free software is available all over the 'net for nissan ecu's. You'll need to learn how to tune it, but you could do that before upgrading anything. If you look for deals I'd say you could do for around 200.00 dollars or so. If you want to tune via a laptop you'd have to buy two emulators from xtronics and use Live Edit to tune it. And a wideband. There are a bunch of websites around explaining how the parameters inside the ecu work.

No need to quit when the injectors max out http://users.wpi.edu/~ktarry/dsmtech/dsmromedit.html

Is it a twin scroll? Mustang guys are having some good results with blocking off one side of the outlets. Something to consider.

I've done it that way. It's a pain. Take the intake off.

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/

a buddy of mine is upgrading his rb to a big single. pm if you want a price on his. i'm not sure if they're ceramic or not, but they are oem from a 90 rb26.

links to thread and results http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=45148.0 http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45148.0;attach=5732 http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45148.0;attach=5733

what octane gas was in the tank?

check turbomustangs.com, it's been done on there by someone.

what was the fp at when you changed it? what did you change it to? why was it out of spec? it should be 36 with no vac reference. is your new intake hose collapsing? i believe that has happened before. so it runs ok when not in boost?

JWT has tuned a L28ET with the ford lightning maf and 72lb injectors to 32psi with a GT 3740. Would that cover your power needs? Very user friendly IMO and under 2k.

So a 10x1.5 stud with arp moly is to be torqued to 38ft.lbs? or 50 with 30wt oil (not recommended btw)? That seems low but if that's what it's supposed to be then that's what it gets.

Firstly, are any of the studs going through the coolant system? Which ones are they and what special prep needs to be done? Do you use motor oil on the threads that go into the block? Do you apply moly lube to the upper threads, washers and nut? What is the proper torque with the studs?

have you checked the fp control module? that may not be the right name.....it controls voltage to the fuel pump under light load. it's located just above the ecu, something to check before picking up a pump

I'll mic to see if the cylinder is out of round. There is nothing I can feel there, it just looks polished, wouldn't a ringland scratch it more than polish it? The motor ran fine, had no knock, used about a liter of oil per 1000km's which is what it's pretty much alway been since I've owned the car. Hmmmmmmmmmm, I'm seeing a v8 in my future.

no groove at all, it's just polished a bit. i did blow a headgasket this summer, i may not have noticed it when i replaced the gasket.

how serious does this look? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4991&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4990&cat=500&page=1 compression on that cylinder was 120, the others were in 129-135 range with a cold engine.

vatn? or a twin scroll turbine with a boost controlled bypass ala Tim Z and James Thagard? isn't boost always positive? my turbo has never boosted negatively that i'm aware of. i positively love it on boost that's all the guesses i have.