Bernardd

Jeffp has 72# inj's running his L6 with no problems.

Hi Steve, I'm in wpg and can most likely help you out. PM me and we can set something up.

test it with a fp guage. ps. how's the sunburn? mines baad. hehe

I'll be there.

*cough* bullcaca*cough*

Stinky, that is correct on the Mustang dyno and weight of the car. Drax, there was absolutely no detonation. It was very quiet in the dyno room compared to in the car. There's no way I could hear it in the car and not in the dyno room. What the actual #'s are don't matter to me. The fact that I couldn't run the tune made on the dyno while on the street matters to me. Others have contacted me to say they've had the same experience. Now is it the nature of a dyno or the operator or......????

That's correct. Afr's where 12ish, timing was 22deg, boost was well into the 20psi range before I could get the mass airflow reading that I ran on the street the day before at 20psi. Not sure it was because of the dyno or heat in the dyno cell or what, either way I drove away from the dyno and it would ping at the same psi. What would/could have been the problem?

Drax, the last time I went to the dyno I gained 40hp. That's great, but there was no way I could run that tune on the street. How do you ensure that the tune made on the dyno will be street safe? My mass airflow dropped dramatically on my first dyno run compared to the street tuning I had previously done for the same boost levels.

That's some great info. I'm going to be visiting the dyno sometime in the next month or two and have a few q's about the entire process. 1. What kind of procedure do you have for preventing overheating of the engine? It would seem that an engine would heat up very quickly when kept at 5k at any 10psi, then 12psi, then 14psi etc etc. How do know the gains are not heat related after a cool off. 2. Do you tune every load point on the map? My fuel/timing maps are 16 x 16. Or is it better to go the dyno with a very good idea of where you're using the maps most of the time? 3. What are looking for when tuning? Do you first get the afr's correct for the start adjusting timing looking best minimum torque? This leads back to question 1. That's it for now.

+1 I can run 3psi more without changing anything with those plugs. They do make the car run different at low load. I find that adding some timing makes the car run like stock again. Are you editing the eprom in the ecu? If you are I can tell you where to make the changes so that you are aren't effecting anything other than the boosted areas.

Your air regulator valve (I think that's the right name) isn't working. Set your idle when the car is warm. That's what it'll idle at all the time unless you fix up your valve.

When I first started researching water injection I found a few turbododge guys that have/are doing it with the their stock pump immersed in the tank. I've also come across a couple of guys that used to be on the dsm water injection list that used the stock l28 fuel pump, which supposedly has SS internals, a nissan fpr and nissan cold start valves that where drilled out for maximum performance. All turned on by a hobbs switch. I was going to go that route and tested my old stock turbo fuel pump for several months on the bench by running the -40d WW fluid thru the pump and a spare 440cc ford cfi injector. It never clogged or failed. I decided that for 60 bucks, I just go with the shur flo. You might want to check coolingmist.com, they had a sale on pumps a week or two ago. Northern tool has some for a good deal as well.

Pm sent.

In a moment of blondness I broke my old HKS type S bov. Now I need a new one. The cheapo SS autochrome units are very low priced. Has anyone used one?

http://www.car-parts.com

http://www.turbomustangs.com those guys are the pro's on carbed turbo v8's

hey, great minds thing alike, i made the very same setup last fall.....works very well.

Pfffttt, that's nothing. Try being married. lol

Change the FPR.

Do you have a link to the fast acting valve?

http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wblambda.htm see chart for afr's, as you can see, it doesn't matter what the fuel used as the lambda will still be the same. 0.800 L = 11.76gas = 12.40 LPG = 5.12 meth the innovate guy is very confusing but says the same thing in a couple of threads.

Are buying a kit or making your own? Progressive? If you're somewhat handy with a soldering iron:mrgreen: I can send you a set of plans for a progressive controller. It's very easy to put together.

If it's pinging you've got too much advance and/or it's too lean. At what rpm do you get pinging? What is the afr? Boost curve? Where are the datalog's? Looks like waaay too much timing imo. But we only have 91 up here.

280zedx supercharged his l28. He placed the supercharger on the right side of the engine bay with piping thru an ic then to the throttle body. he's using a megasquirt fuel only setup and has no problems with it. he's making 6psi on a m62 off of a mid 90's gm sedan. it works really well.