zmaster

how did you get your intake to shine like that?, and your valve cover

so does that mean you take that cam gear off, or just move it to where the desired number is at the top?

i would definately be interested in a pair, I just need to see some night pics at different angles to figure out if I like them or not

I would really like to get my hands on the complete body kit for that airdam....if anyone knows where i can get one i would appreciate it alot...I have been searching for that airdam for a while now.

PLEase help I am in desperate need of the pulley assembly that is on the front of the motor that is on the crankshaft. It is off a 1975 datsun 280z 2.8l fuel injected 4 speed manual. make me an offer. if anyone knows anyone who has one please let me know . All of your help is greatly appreciated Thanks Thomas

thanks but i did it already, and i used a cheater bar with a steel pipe that was about 10 feet long, and a socket on the cam...and that did the trick, and i did think of putting the car in gear as i did it too

Can anyone help me out really quick??... I am putting a new head gasket on my 75 280z, and i need to pull the crankshaft pulley. i was wondering how do loosen the bolt on the crankshaft is it reverse threaded, or no?....and how do you hold on to the pulley so the crankshaft doesn't turn? I have to do this while the motor is in the car too. any help is greatly appreciated Thanks Thomas

Is it possible for the stock computer to be unning on a closed loop? it is all stock right now so is there the possibility i could have a few bad cylnder rings? or could this be because i have a bad intake/exhaust gasket....befroe all this happened....i was goin 120, at 5000 rpm, and when i got home my car was overheating, and after it cooled off i started it the next morning, and exhaust was comming from under the hood........so idk what happened

thanks....and i have i that, and the haynes manual...the only thing i cant find is the fsm for a 75 280z

it is very hard to start. and exhaust is comming from under the hood. I have to ctank the motor for about 2 minutes before it starts to stumble, and then when i pump the gas pedal it starts to fire, and run.....but with alot of exhaust. so do i need a new exhaust gasket between the headers? There is no coolant in the oil at all so i thought the gasket blew out on the drivers side, because nothing is pushed out on the passengers side. and i am using new Snap On tools. what should the compression be by the way?

thanks i figured it out now...

i own a 1975 280z coupe with the l28 fuel injected engine, and i just did the compression test, and i was wondering if these readings are good or not? Back of car 128/130 psi, 135 psi, 135 psi, 145psi, 135 psi, 140psi Front of car i am not sure, but did i blow my head gasket? any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all of your help and support.

I have looked everywhere, online and in my haynes manual. i need to know how to loosen th tensioner bulley so i can replace my drive belts. i have a 1975 280z coupe with 2.8 FI

ok i'll try doing that manually

i have a good question for you. I drive a 1975 280z with a l28 fuel injection, and it hesitates everywhere i drive, it will not go over 40 mph. but when i completely top off the tank it wil drive fine, it won't hesitate until it sucks 3 gallons out of a fully topped of tank what do you think could be the problem, i have checked the afm, replaced the injectors, fuel lines, and cleaned the tank. the only thing i haven't checked is the ecu, thermotime switch, air regulator, the coolant temp sender or sensor. Oh and ont top of all of that i just replaced my heater core, and it still blows out cold air.

i am having a problem with no heat at all in my 75 280z. the core hoses are hot, but cold air blows out. idk what to do, its winter in indiana, and cold, and this is my daily

my insurance on my 75 20z coupe was 105 a month liability, until i had an accident with no insurance went up to 150 a month

i am having i think the same problem right now on my 1975 280z coupe.....I never tried tapping the fuel rail. i had a fuel pressure guage hoocked up, and the fuel pressure dropped dramatically. it idles at 32 psi, but after the car warms up, and i rev it drops to 15-20 psi, and i thought it was the charging system so i replaced the alternator, and the external voltage regulator, but the same thing happens. so now it is either the afm, or the throttle position sensor. but if you figure it out before me could you tell me what needed to be fixed.

After this whole year of driving my 75 280z, the fuel pump started to pump at 29-30 psi, and I said to myself its time to change the fuel pump. After I did that there is no more stumbling, the acceleration has increased dramastically, and the fuel pressure is running at 39-40 psi. I was very suprised that my z is fast for the year it is. So now having to drive a z like it should be running I don't know if I still want to do a RB26 DETT swap with a RB25 trans? I no longer know what I should do with my 280 engine wise?

did you have to purchase a new header to install the twice pipes.....or were you able to use the original header. i am now considering putting this system on my car. I am still wanting to either put a hks, or apexi n1 muffler on my z with a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust system on my 280z.....I just want something unique, something no one else has.

If that dash was available in a left side driver i would but one.......but I am starting to consider to make my 75 280z a rightside driver like all z cars were meant to be.

that is how i have my cd deck right now it took me a while to figure out how to screw the deck in the center console especially without the cd deck bracket. and i have 2 5 inch pioneer speakers on either side of the deck. And is that power window switches i see there.

looks good.......so what are the plans for the engine?

i tested the connector that connects directly to the injector. My fuel pump has never worked either. I can jump the fuel pump across the efi connector, and it will come on. So I just hard wired the fuel pump with a switch to the battery.

can you take a picture of the relay? i would need to see what the connections look like before i even think about getting it.