yo2001

if you have the EGT behind the turbine wheel, it's hard to see the true temp coming out of the exhaust since the turbine wheel can take some heat away. I guess 1300deg is good if your turbine wheel is taking 200-300 deg away.

Any weather change?

where is your probe? sounds like you got it after the turbine. Mine can go up to 1620deg under boost. My probe is located before the turbo where all the exhaust flow meets though. Suppose to be highest temp there.

ambient temp does effect the boost. Also, barometer. I would replied but I've been moving.

134mph GPS before the turbo conversion. I hate to go faster than that on the street.

Now I got HKS 8)

HID is about to get ban here in US anyway. Go with H4 E-code with set of good quality bulbs.

I was getting full boost before 3000rpm with T3, just more tuning and you shouldn't have no lag problem.

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=173135&highlight=#173135 check that post out. I don't have time to look up my FSM now. Anyway, you might also have the MAF burn off circuit open. might want to check that.

IF you are in limp mode, you can unplug the MAF and it'll still run the same. Basically, it's a pre programmed MAP to keep the car running even without MAF

My setup had no signal from MAF when I installed it and it acted just like that. (but it was throwing me a MAF code. #12 I think) It basically ran on limp mode and rev limit on the limp mode is 2,000rpm.

Have anyone thought about the factory location of the knock sensor being on wrong side? I mean the ping aka preignition should start from the opppsite side of flame front right? (meaing away from the spek plugs, on the driver side) Do you think there is a benefit to relocate the knock sensor, more closer to where pinging starts? I know there isn't going to be much benefit if you are running srock ECU. But since I'm using J&S Safeguard (adjustable individual knock control) I can get knock control all the rpm in all load condition. Anyone else?

probably from the back pressure by the turbine wheel cause the rpm to stay up little longer. Get your booty on the AIM

sound like you are getting lag. also probably getting too rich and no enough timing to burn the fuel properly. try little bit more timing and see what happen

I'm running Greddy type-S recirculating to from of turbo with 1 1/2 inch radiator hose. I can hear my BOV btw shift.

I guess I'm talking about micro pixels quality. Like Nikon lenses on 35mm can capture more image (pixels on digital) than what the digital camera can create and process. It's nothing the naked eyes can tell difference. I'm an art stidio major so we are always debating about the 35mm vs digital. We just all need to get Nikon F5's

Yap, 100% Japanese. I think some of you guys got that from my broken English posts I can help on Japanese if you want.

The tech. of digital camera hasn't got to the point where the lens is making the difference in quality of the picture. The image is still limited by the amount of pixels per pic. IMO

that's the same camera I got. I like mine.

yeah, you'll need to scan it for me. what kind is it? there might be a instruction on the internet.

hey, if you email me the instruction in Japanese, I'll translate for you. 8) yo2001@speedfactory.net

I'll take the ECU off you if you don't want it.

Some good exhaust flowing head like 4G63 head have problem with the exhaust valve guide wearing out as it takes alot of heat. It also have skinny valves.

that's from weak sparks.

SOme of the hick up is from the dampner I'm sure but I get hick up with my BOV flattering every now and then.