yo2001

that's clever. I might have to try that one day.

sweet. I got a Q for you Nathan. What's your base timing? I'm just tuning in my Z31 swap but I hhave to have the timing real high to run right. my base is 22 deg BTDC. I think my crank pulley isn't so accurate. I guess I need to find the true TDC tonight.

I have some funny looking nut holding my 60-1. anyway you have it, 60-1 will flow. IMO 360 deg thrust bearing need on 60-1 I think.

I can tell you the ACT street clutch is alot heavier than my Centerforce DF was. I would go with Exedy factory replacement. Same disk as ACT I think but with more streetable pressure plate.

I found the reason why my MAF was getting more than 5v. I had the self cleaning circuit opened. I got it fixed now, it's sweet. Thanks for your guys help.

I'm running .60 T04B and no spacer needed for it. .60 T04E I've seen, all runs spacers unless the turbo is clocked downward. I think ScottyMiz managed to do .70 T04E housing without a spacer.

60-1 is sweet. I went from stock T3 to 60-1/stageIII (still in To4B) and I've more power after 5000 rpm and still spool before 3500 rpm.

Ask Lcokjaw. He's running a spacer with his JWT450

What stub axle?

Redline MT90 is what I run. It works great. Not so good when the weather is cold but after warmup, it shifts like champ. @7000rpm

I think I used N/A pick up in my turbo motor with stock turbo oil pan. I didn't have any problem with it after I sled the pick up into the sump.

Got up today and I fiddle some more. Now I got it running off limp mode and no more MAF code and CAS code. hoohoo Now when I rev up, the car misses some like it's running out of fuel (but fuel pressure good) It must be something to do with the fuel pump control. Well, Thanks guys.

I worked on some more. Now I'm getting voltage to pin 31. But I think I'm getting too much. at idle, it was pass 5v. Any idea?

Thanks jeffp. Send me a pinout and I'll go through it again. I do remember a shielded wire with black ground use as O2 sensor wire from my A/F ratio gauge. I think the sheild is to protect the small voltage signal from getting interference with other power source. Since the MAF signal is small (up to 5v right? ) may be shielded wire is needed for accurate reading? Well, I'm going to run a single wire from pin31 to B terminal on the MAF and see if I can get te car to run right today. Thanks

Ok, I worked on some more. I reconnect the grey shielded wire to pin 31 and took the black wire off. (I assume it's some sort of ground) With MAF not hooked up, it's getting .1v and with MAF hooked up and key on, Getting little over 4v. It's that right or close?

My stock T3 used to do that. I was in the impression that the WG wasn't big enough because it stop doing it when I got my 60-1/StageIII with larger WG hole and it stop doing it.

I got my MAF burn off hooked up Jeffp. It lights up now. I'm getting little to no power from pin 31. So I started to see and follow the wire. Then I found the wire connected to shielded grey wire and black wire. WTF? either of the wire is getting solid voltage. I got like 0.1v out of one. Do you guys know how these two wires hook up to pin 31?

OK. not getting 2.6V. I had .02v or something So could it be bad ground??

Well, I took my car to Reynolds, GA (I guess I drove about 300miles) beginning of this year and I did notice some brake loss with just the factory heat shields. Then I added high silica blankets on my factory shield and it seems to help some. But I've not had any problems on the street.

How would I check that? I have no clue how to check voltage without taking the connector off. What do I need other than a voltmeter?

OK, I've been making progress on the Z31 ECU conversion. I can now crank the car and i idles. but in Limp mode. It runs rich and won't rev any higher than 2000rpm. I keep getting MAF code and fuel pump code in Mode III OBD and MAF code on Mode V OBD. I've tried two MAF's and have check the power comming into the MAF connector and resistance between pin C&D and it came out good. Also, my MAF is lead up with power on. My only guess is I've two bad MAF. Any idea? I also need more info too. which way the MAF go on to the intake? the arrow pointing toward the turbo (intake) right? Another. I've one yellow wire coming out from an unknow connector. It's labeled (ignition +). Anyone know where this wire suppose to go. My harness is modified 280zxt. Anyone with a clue, I need help.

10psi, stock turbo, IC, and 3in DP I trapped 100.5mph. with 2800lb car (with me in it ) caculated 222WHP.

Nope, I was just shifting into 4th gear at the end of 1/4mi. Shifting like 6400rpm though.

My tires are just little shorter than LJ's One size smaller. 225/60/15

my car is fine at 10 psi but it was still lean on dyno with WB