RayG1988

I saw one of these at my local community college, guess daddy's money can't buy everyone into Harvard.

starter, takes about 10 minutes to remove and replace.

Could be a lot of things. Bad battery, starter, alternator, or even bad wiring.

bring back a fairlady z!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125478 it was in my favorites

You need an RB25 tranny to convert to rwd and lots of money. Check out Stony's build he has a sick RB powered Z.

oh hai guise, wats goin on here?

They're an item.

Congratulations man! Houses are selling for really cheap down here since the market's bad, it's pretty much a waiting game. Wait for a house to be about to go into foreclosure and buy it.

Good video man, it looks really good. Sucks about the lady messing up your z.

Okay, so my buddy just got an EVO 9 and we had found some dirt roads where we heard people rallied on in some forest. Long story short we had a blast, I was driving the whole time and we're considering getting a cheaper car and building a rally car out of another old Z or some cheap 90s fwd because I'm a friggin' good rally driver and I rape, lol. Now, even though we had fun tonight we're actually kind of scared (especially me, since it's my friend's car) because now the Evo is having some problems. We have to pretty much rev up pretty high to even get it to move. We ruled out the tranny being bad since eventally torque hits us hard and we actually get moving. (after reving up to say 4k rpm, torque kicks in rpm goes down and then once again we rev sky high and lose speed unless we hold it steady.) I'm thinking it's some sort of boost leak or some sensor thats causing the turbo not to kick in at the right thing I wear it's like super laggy to the point where I was scared. Like we ended up at a 7-11 trying to blast sand off the motor, I thought maybe some had gotten into the intake etc but everything was fine there was just sand al over the block. Another theory is that theres something up with the clutch like he needed to replace it anyway but maybe since we went through a bunch of bumps and small jumps (not like rally jumps but the roads were bumpy) that something went wrong with the pedal so that the clutch is slightly engaged or something. I'm pretty lost, have to work at 7am so I couldn't check it out really to tell you the truth but trying to get some ideas. Any help would be appretiated.

grumpy, I could swear I've seen your vette here in the Central FL before.

It's really nice man, I wish you could get a clean one like that here in FL. You can't find them at all for that price, unless they're NA 2+2s.

That's a really nice car man, I've always liked the Z32. Got any plans for mods?

looks like a miata with a foxbody wing. i don't like it.

Thanks a lot grumpy, not like I can do any of this but it's good mind food.

Having a 10 second Honda is like coming out of the closet, at first your surprise everyone but at the end of the day you're still gay.

Here's some advice a friend gave me (not that I can actually take it due to lack of funds.) "the block to have-70s C/K series 4 bolt main high nickle 3970010. This casting is also in camaros/vettes as 2 bolt mains. you get ahold of one of these bad boys, theres no worries of block cracking or grenading at 500+hp. the heads that flow are any double hump pretty much. 461 461X 462 292 291 186 187. Make sure they have 202 intake 160 exhaust valves. (they have bigger ports to begin with) any X code head=factory high flow. (some aftermarket heads dont even flow as much as X codes) Angle plug heads are typically over the counter back in the day aftermarket GMPP. those are worth BIG bucks. I know im not mentioning the power pack 283s, or LT1 350 (1970) heads. Those are a needle in a pile of needles to find. I have a set of power packs on stand by but too much compression due to small chambers id need to run 112 race gas with -12cc dished pistons. If you cant come across those heads, Bowtie Phase 2 or Phase 3 heads. If you do come across those heads, take them to a machine shop to have the rocker arm studs removed. Theyre factory pressed in and a bitch to get out. Have them removed and tapped so you can have screw in studs. Pressed in ones can from high rpm and vibrations caused, back out and ♥♥♥♥ up your valve train quick. rounding off cam lobes, bending valves etc. crankshaft. You want to find C30 C40 C50 C60 trucks, dumptrucks, tow trucks. Some were equipped with 327s and 283s. Youll want the 327 crank. And if your racing, and regulations are 2bbl, youll want the intake (2bbl high rise) These cranks are steel, and nitrded. Take the crank and rotating assembly to a machine shop, have them lighten it, knife edge the counter weights, chamfer the oil holes. When you knife edge it, you are going to reduce the turbulance in the crank case which means less oppsing force on the crank at higher rpm. Your going to need your entire rotating assembly balanced. Pistons rods crank balancer and flywheel. chamfering your oil holes will increase oiling to the bearings. thats really all you have to know. That and what cam you should use. depending on the application, there is a such thing as TOO much and it can hinder performance." Does this seem reasonable? Sounds too good to be true, help me almighty Chevy god.

Wow, people took my badge joke seriously lawlz. Just buy a Fairlady Z.

It lets you put a Fairlady Z badge without being called a ricer, DUHHHHH

Gross, a regular l28 makes like 145 gross. 160 whp would be amazing for that little bastard motor, lol.

Ouch, fhp tom. Nice car, wish I could swap an LS1 but I don't have the time or money for it.

Sorry I haven't put pics, but assuming everything besides what I put pictures of, what should I charge? I don't want to try to sell overpriced and at the same time I don't want to screw myself over, just want to be fair about it.

Just found out about it from my friend, this really sucks.