TomoHawk

I think the big thing about the new Ford GT-40 is that they turned it into a city-car for the racer wannabes. Originally, it probably didn't have any door panels, cover on the dash, carpeting, or other interior stuf, plus no body-side nouldings or bumpers. I haven't seem any cutaway views of what's under the skin, but I suspect that there are bumper-things under there, plus the interior looks like a regular car with nice carpet, leather! seats, HEATER & RADIO...... Leather seat on a "race car" ?? Radio?? Probably has a/c too. Well, if somebody wants to buy THAT, they can. I would rather have the stripped version, even if it's a little uncomfortable to drive. If I wanna go 1200 miles, I'll take my Escort...

You gotta remember that any stuff you see right now is of the concept car. The engineers might hear what you guys are saying and change things. I think it's better than the current model, but agree the front needs a little more 'classic' influence. I saw it on TV and I think it looked a little different (better) than the pictures referenced in this thread. Remember, it's the 2005 concept model, not 2004 production model.

Barret Jackson auctions cars big time. Lotsa vintage stuff and famous cars. Million-dollar ferrari's, Mustangs, Carmaros, Corvette, Alphas, Maseratis, Last time they sold that car "Eleanor."

I dunno when it is yet, but I'll be watching what I can. On Speed Channel. Anybody else watch? what do you like or look for?

What exactly is your point? Same for smoov.

GREED, GREED, GREED... That's why there's no fish left. "Americans" want more. They want it faster. EXCESS. "Never mind the penalty, just do it!" Overfishing didn't become a problem until the Industrial age. That's why I klinda like my Z car, I'm recycling and not creating more waste by buying a new car which is made of plastic/petrochemicals. The recycling industry should find a way to recycle 100% of every car. .I've seen a few meteor showers... I'm in for getting rid of all the satellites up there too. No more GPS, satellite radio or phones, global TV coverage. We were happy without all that stuff and we can be happy again with simpler lives. I think everybody should get back to the basics without all that technology for a few years. You can't claim to be a real technological expert if you don't know how to get along WITHOUT it! Would you know what to do if your GPS navigator quit? Or your cell phone? TV dish?

Thhis is what they could should look like, not what they got in the showrooms now. Those just got more bloated. The only thing I think they should change is the taillights, to look a little more like the origonal, and maybe lighten it up with sharper corners to look a little nimbler. I still get the feeling of when I look at the old Mach Is. http://www.stangnet.com/mustanggtconcept/gallery/indexpage1.htm

I was doing som research into this subject, and found an interesting fact on the Microsoft site. It has some software that you can add to your Win 98 "active desktop" tp track over 7,000 satellites: http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/gallery/ 7 thousand! From what you hear of off the record, you get the idea that thare are only 24 GPS plus about another 2 dozen telecomm satellites, and that's it. There are 75 categories you can pick on the tracking software Plus 'spy' satellites, weather satellites, USGS satellites, other scientific satellites. AND those of other countries...

It's to bad there's (nobody) in my area that is interested in the conversion stuff Like Shane is. You end up paying extra (i.e. bribe) these guys to do your bodywork, because they's not interested in some pain-in-the-ass fiberglass kit. They'd rather be doing high-volume work on fender replacements and body repairs. For me, it's really important to get some experienced help or to have pros do the work because I'm not able to do it, with my bad arm, nor do I have anywhere to do work, besides the driveway. Not to mention the specialized tools you might need. Maybe I could strap the front & back sections on, throw the rest inside and drive(reeeeal slow) all the way to CO? lol

The stuff I was talking about is called Top Engine Cleaner.

Service stations do it with the engine in the car. The Book says you hook up a tube from a can of the liquid stuff to the vacuum port of the throttle chamber. I never heard of using water to decarbonize the engine. Is there a way to tell how bad it is?

Bewfore eliminating the valve, try disconnecting it to see how that affects the way the engine starts.

I would think that it is set that deep into the air flow so the fuel gets carried to the cylinders efficiently. any deeper would spray puddles on the botttom. Higher would be less efficient, but would work. You would need to crank a little longer before starting. Are you sure the hood will clear if you raise it? You might even consider an elbow pipe so the inject lays flat.

I would like to clean up the top of my L28 engine and remove some of those things sticking up from the intake. Maybe cover the holes with a plate. I believe those are vacuum taps or valves. Also would like to get the vacuum solenoids off the wheel well. I think that I only need vacuum for the heater & brake booster, so how would I run the vacuum for that? Also, is there a cutaway pic of a vacuum solenoid, or an explanation? If I know more about them, I could deal with the problem myself. thx.

I'm oing to take them green things out. Should make the numbers brighter? Maybe some lower-voltage bulbs, too.

Do you think you could save the wiring, or are you going to cut it up? There's a guy on the 240z.org site : http://240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10725 That wants to make new wiring harnesses, and would probably need a donor set. I think you would want to start with the common sections (tail lights, headlights, interior), then do the engine & dash, as I think those changed a few times & had different options for different emmisions (CA. Fed, Canada). It would be a shame to lose a working wiring harnes, if even just to make the wiring jig from it.

I had thought of this earlier... I think you might want to consider the year/features of the donor vehicle. If it had ABS or EFI, etc., then it might be too difficult or tricky to delete the wires for those things, unless you're going to use them. I think modern cars are way to complicated to mess with- even the radio! I think what I mean is that you'd want to go with an earlier year model that doesn't have ABS or EFI. Like a 70's or 80's model that had only a carbureted engine., then add the harness for the engine separately and splicein only a few wires for gauges & idiot lamps, main power, etc. But you are welcome to use a deluxe model of course. Let us know if it works...

Make sure you keep GOOD records! With all the upgrades, like front & rear disks, bigger AFM, springs, maybe even engine and transmission, You gotta either do ALL the servicing yourself, or you gotta remember to tell the service guy what HE needs to get, in terms of replacement parts. Some of those dopes will just see a '77 280Z, and order an oil filter for one, and find out it won't fit (needs a chevy oil filter!) How about shocks, etc.? Then you tell him what he'll need and that's when he tells you, "-I'M- the expert, Bud, and THAT'S a 280Z!" You know what I mean... Don't you just hate "experts?"

I forgot about that. Thanks.

If you put spacers between the crossmember and body, doesn't it lift the body? Te increased underhood clearance would be nice, but dthat means the C/G of the body would be higher, but not much.

I could never figure out why the A/T cars ALL had R-180s and the M/T cars had R-200s? Probably because if the torque loading during acceleration? When I bought MY car, the guy told me it had the stronger R-200 diff, but I later figured it was the R-180, ( from the tall shape of the cover) like it matters- I don't drag race or anything.

That's what I was thinking about doing! I thought maybe you could get a wiring harness from another same-year Datsun vehicle (like a pickup) and put it into the Z. I chose the pickup because I think it's a long vehicle and the connectors should be in about the same place, lengthwise. Same year might mean it would have the same connector for certain things and maybe even the same general layout. You might need to slice in a connector here or there, but it would help simplify the wiring meaning you could get a wiring diagram from a reference book.

Right. Research this one over the winter. Take NOTES- Print the pages/diagrams if you have to. Don't trust your memory. I got a big 3-ring notebook I keep the pages in, categorized. Another for the car, with the cleear, slip-in covers. In the Spring, measure the stuff and see what you need to do. Also, why did you ask about 'stock tie rod ends? Do you think you'll need special ones on a lowered car? I think you'll be more worried about the T/C rods than the tie rods. It really helps if you can give as much info on tour question when you start a topic.

Right. The 3M tape is OK for flimsy plastic things like fake scoops and such, but there is too much weight and leverage on a side-view mirror and it would fall off before you got the engine started. Sorry about that. If you really wanted to mount something SECURELY, like a scop, I would use something called "servo tape" which you could get an a hobby store selling r/c cars. It's double-sided and MUCh stronger than 3M. Except it's black.

Those bulbs look like the old-fashioned flashbulbs. They just push in and have no bayonet pins or contacts like the turn signal/brake/parking lamps.