TomoHawk

Thanks. I have the stock 280Z brakes. I think if I used the 300zx rotors I would need the spacers, but then the 280Z calipers still wouldn't be wide enough to handle the vented rotors. So I'll just pick up a set if I find a good deal, and save them for the total swap.

78 280Z The guy at the brake shop told me my rotors are getting a little lean and I would need new ones, because they wouldn't be able to turn them, if they had to. So, can you use the 300ZX n/a rotors on a 280Z with the stock calipers? It would be nice to have these on when it comes time to swap the caliper too. thx.

ZMeFly-- Not a bad price. You need the "cores" first? Can you source the spacers too? different thinkesses, or just one?

That $80 when you give then ANOTHER set of toyota calipers for cores. Also, you don't get any totor(s) or spacers, so the title/description is innaccurate. I mean, it's not a brake upgrake, just caliper upgrade.

Has any body tried using a transparent, polarized sun visor? The plastic kind you see through. It seems like it might be a good alternative to opaque material like vinyl. In case you're considering recovering the visors, you might consider just replacing them with this stuff: http://www.autostreak.com/polavisor/

I took my 280Z to a radiator/heater/AC shop and had them lube/adjust the heater controls and pressure test the system. I also had them REPLACE all the vacuum lines since they were splitting all over . YOU could do this if you have a vacuum line drawing ( I didn't). No vacuum at the valve= no defrost-vent-heat. Either way, I found out it takes a couple minutes for the air to get hot, even with a warm egine. Probably while the heater core fills up & gets hot. Good money spent, IMO. Does anybody have a solution for eliminating the vacuum cannister on a '78 280Z with EFI? I dunno if the dashpot and other vacuum stuff affects the engine operation.

I usually just take the nut off totally, give the shaft a few sharp raps with a hammer ( I know-- you're not supposed to...) then jerk the wheel off with both hands. Just be careful you don't mess up the threads.

I hear a lot of talk about how body shops can do body conversions (like ricers) and custom body work, attach flares, new dash boards, etc., but how would you know if they can do custom work or they just do dings and paint? What other kinds of custom stuff should you expect them to be able to do? Would (restorations) be a specialty thing (like for a Z)? thx.

I have 2 ideas I'm doing/diid: 1-- I hinged the deck between the rear shock towers. I think it was where the original hinge was. That way I can lift up the deck behind the seats and store stuff (tools, air compressor, jumper cables, etc.) in the wells that are under there. I also cut a rounded shap ( on my 280Z) to fit the full-size spare tire. You might not need that on a 240. 2-- If you are going to replace the door panels, cut off the top section, maybe 2-4 inches down, where the fuzzies are and attach the new panel to that. It will make the door panel hang right, the glass won't bang on metal, and you got a nice place to rest with your elbow out the window. Only thing is that you need to fasten the panel to the door with some kind of fasteners. Let me know if you find anything that works in place of the stock clips.

Yeah---- I started looking for the Enzo on the valve covers, then I thought that they were probably for a domestic brand engine.

These are the whell I saw that gave me the idea: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34209&item=2448663485 It was just a thought. I got a long way to go before I need wheels. I'm doing the research now so I have all the info I need if/when I get to it. To bad the car is locked up in the body shop!

Those threads a kinda coarse, no?

Is thisMC pin- problem an issue with the 280Z? I might change min in the spring.

Aren't you supposed to re-tighten the spinner after about 25 miles before you can finally put the hammer away?

No help from searching on this.. Saw some knock-off wheels, and started wondering how you could put them on a Z? The wheels I saw were real Boranni wheels. Is there usually a spacing issue? thx.

You forgot the launch ramp at the end of the deck for some extra distance & height!

I think you'd have to attach a ladder-like frame to the chassis, so the whole car gets going as a whole.

If you turned the car around, it would have a profile more like an airfoil, and the car would be more like a lifting body craft, so maybe we should do that to get it to 'fly' farther. I have difficulty seeing how the car could go 3,000 MPH from the catapult. I don't think it was designed to go more than like, 250/300 MPH? Reguardless of the weight of whatever you're launching. At only 2500 Lbs., it'd still be an easy thing for the catapult to do...

If you're going to modify things, why not just try a different fuel tank? I mean one that has a tunnel down the middle, or even two tanks grafted together, with the tunnel down the middle. that way you could put the exhaust pipe where you want, as long as you build the fuel tank the right way.

I assumed the power would be set at maximum and a little ramp at the end. Let's see "Dukes of Hazzard" or "Knight Rider" beat that. for air-time.

I'm on Christmas break. I teach, take some classes- well, not for the next few weeks. Thinking up "ideas" to work on for next few weeks. *ehem* Zed in the shop right now. Should probably go re-organize my collection of Zed nuts, bolts, etc.

You could theoretcally run the pipe THROUGH the gas tank if you wanted to. The heat would make the gasoline boil, keeping the temperature down. Then you end up with vaporized gas(not good). Practically, you should probably use some insulation between tank and pipe, so you don't boil the gas any way. Use caution with this one, of course.

If you put magnets ON the driveshaft, you could put a stator around that and use the driveshaft as the armature of the alternator/generator. What would be the RPM of the driveshat ast 60 MP? 100MPH? gotta take that into account probably.

This is really off the wall... If you hooked up your Z (or any car for that matter) to the launching (hook) on on an aircraft carrier, how far off the end do you think it would go? That means it would have tosurvive the launch! An aircraft carrier is supposed to have enough juice to get a 60,000 Lb. airplane to 150 MPH, so you'd have to rig up a really heavy-duty launch (hook). Any Navy dudes around here? Anybody wanna try? I'll colunteer the neighbor's Honduh! Maybe the wing will make it go farther! Happy holi-daze to you BroZ