TomoHawk

I hear of a song similar to "Feliz Navidad" but the words are more like "policve got my car." Can I get a like or post/email me the lyrics to such a song? thx. happy holi-daze.

I would be interested in a forum like that. I think we could re-do the assembly manual by exchanging pictures. I know that you need lots of photos to look at to get thhings right. Maybe even add some sections on improvements you could do to the kit.

I would say they had the ship inching along slowly. Probably not from fear of hitting the car. From model ship competition, I know that you don't want something that big sitting still. The wind could blow it around and it could end up pointing in the wrong direction . Also, it takes a lot more power to get it moving from a stand still than it does from a slow rolling start. I'll think up something else that's fun to discuss Next year. Are we all discuss-ted about this now?

I guess Bob settled that one for us. Bob-- do you remember if they really shoot cars off the cat, or dumpsters of water? What's your favorite car shot?

thanks a lot, I'll keep that in mind when I get to that part. I would have to do something with the speedo, to account for the bigger diameter. Maybe I could turn the face to the corrected position. I read somewhere that you could make your own faces with computer graphics programs.

I cut the center console right between the defroster switch and shifter hole, and I will have a fire extinguisher where the armrest was. I will have to look into putting a glove box into the dash. Maybe some velcro or a magnetic thing instead of a latch.

This is a PRIME example of when a little knowledge is a DANGEROUS thing!! Actually, he oil doesn't really "wear out." Only the EP additives are what gets "used up." YOU could easily go 30-40,000 miles or more before there is any real reduction in lubrisity, in general. On the back of the "Liquid Wrench" can, it tells you to pour ion about a pint 100 miles before an oil change. It's supposed to cut the varnish,loosen crud, etc. so you get a cleaner engine. Sounds OK, but I dunno if it would really work.

See ifyou can find some thin fiberboard. I dunno where. It's much stiffer than cardboard and would get soggy when the moisture get at it from the back. remember to put on a vapor barrier unde the door panel.,

I would like to make some caps to replace the Z caps on the ZX 6-spoke rims, and don't have the car handy. I think I would like a flat cap overlapping the hole, with 6 flathead screws set flush. Then some kind of logo with an overcoat. Would it be better to set the cap flush, or is there a shoulder? Either way, what's the diameter of the hole, so I can go have a machinist make up some blanks? thx

Right. The sump conversion is a popular thing to do on custom cars. That one reason why my brother put a Chevy enginein his '34 FORD roadster- he could get the engine down lower with the rear sump. I'm not an engine man lately (full time student).

I like Your setup. It's not 62 Enzo, but a nice contemporary rendition. Would probably do it that way myself. No broken, faded kirinkle finish? (My dad's vintage plane has that- real old). Just no glovebox, huh? I'm sure you could find a way to cut a slot or something in there to stick your 'gloves.' Both of those dashes is supposed to have room for the heater controls, just not the center vents, which is I like. I want to keep my center vents: I only use vent, heat, defog anyway. Maybe you could mount the ound, side vents in the middle. Radio optional, of course. BTW, have you ever toyed with the idea of putting a hose on the vent near your feet to the side vents, or just point it at the seats? thx.

If you have a Moss Motors book, they have locksets so you can have all 3 locks with the same key (3 doors & trunk). Your local locksmith should be able to re-key your locks, too. Otherwise, I wouldn't be interested in pushbutton doorlocks.

Sorry about that-- strut was the only thing I could think of at the time (am I getting old??) I was just concerned about whether the wheel spacing changes. Is the tire moved outward any? Can I assume that the wheel & tire would be in the same position as the stock wheel& tire? thx.

On Fords, they have a way to put on a rear sump. It's a special oil pan, and pump with a custom sump pickup tube. I think the stock pump is still used, just a pickup tibe going to the back. I'm sure you could make an oil pan to suit your dimensions, but You just need to have an oil pump that dopesn't stick down too far and maybe the pickup tube pointing the the desired direction-- back.

I'm getting some new ideas on this thing again. I took out my extra pull and cut off metal around the base, about 1/8 in or so ( eyeballed it). That makes the threaded part about 3/16 inches longer than stock. I also noticed that the handle is solid and you could drill & tap a hole there for a mounting screw or a pin ( keeps it from turning). GTO GUYS NEED SOME INFO: How thick is the door outer skin after you bond on the door skin? I think after cutting around the base mof the pull, there should be plenty ofthreads to get the nut on, including a sheet-metal bracket for the bellcrank mechanism. No pics yet- still brainstorming. You know- winter...

Autometers... I didn't know they made guage faces with the 60's look? If you're going to use a 60's style dash, you should consider using the older gauge faces too. BTW, I've got a new idea about adapting the MG boot lid pulls for the doors.

I'm not sure which one I like better, probable the one that looks like a V. Only thing is that I think the tach should be in the middle, with the speedo to the side.

I like that.

too bad there's no photos.

OK... Which calipers work with the STOCK rotors? for myself, it seems like the better thing, since i only do street/hoighway cruising. Otherwise, I would just use the simple, vented rotors Either way looks like you get to pay about $90 just for the rotors.

Is there anybody making a complete dash GTO style in fiberglass. I think it would be better to replace the whole thing instead of grafting on just the dash pod. You get some weight saving, you can fix the wires and you can probably eliminate things you don't want or need. thx. merry cross-mas.

All contemporary cars come with vented brake rotors now. It helps stay cool in stop-and-go traffic, not much more expensive to make and probablably not heavier, if at all. Compared to solid rotors. I suspect it's also much easier/cheaper to machine. the vented slots & holes are not good to the lathe's cutting tool.

Back to the subject-- How do the adapters attach to the strut? Do the adapters change the backspacing of the wheel enough that you have to get wheels with different backspacing?

I just got an email reply from the guy selling those calipers on eBay- He says those are the Toyota calipers. I should inform him that his description is innaccurate and he should pull the item. Here's the reply: "Q: Are these calipers the ones from the Toyota 4x4 truck, as in the popular conversion? A: yes! " his email is: a2602nv@yahoo.com I hate it when people do this.

More people should know about that deal You got 4-piston calipers with the stock rotors, and no spacers needed! Now, I just need a new set of rotors. Mine are too thin. Is there an alternative source?