TomoHawk

How many are they going to shoot up there? Eventually, they are going to start colliding and we'll end up polluting the apace all the WAY around the planet! It'll be like smog, only instead of localizing it around cities, it'll be EVERYWHERE when you look up. The things range from flecks of paint to open-end wrenches to parts of the Saturn V rockets (that haven't fallen back). Even the little flecks of paint at the speed they travel can put a hole through a space suit and probably through a person, let alone a whole rocket stage (only a few tons)! If it didn't burn up while falling through the upper atmosphere, it would rain down on our heads! In case you didn't know, the space shuttle has been hit at least twice, one putting a big pit in a front window. Eventually they will stop sending up the space shuttle because it'll blow up every time from getting hit. We should limit how many Satellites are up there. Especially with the space station getting built, as big as it is; there is the biggest risk. Lotsa people with plain clothes in a pressurized tube of air. One hit, and they're all DEAD. You gotta ask yourself, "Is all this risk from all these people worth me having the same radio station everywhere I go? Or phone service? Cell phone towers is another peave of mine. I got along without cell phone all of my life, why can't others?

So since my car has no a/c, I won't be needing any of those solenoids. Just a check valve (maybe). I haven't noticed any wires going to them either. thx. A few less pieces of (rusty) junk out from under the hood.

I bet if you cut apart a vacuum solenoid, you would find out wht they were used. I would bet that it's just a piston with a spring, and the piston acts like a valve. Like Zcarnut suggested, the bottle is a resevoir for vacuum, and the solenoids are used to scavenge whatever useable vacuum there is. It might be possible to get away with only one vacuum solenoid, mounting it directly to the bottle.

Oh, that's your "power Bar." It shows your level you're at on this system.

What are the vacuum solenoids for? I can't see what. Can you remove them and the vacuum bottle and just run the vacuum to the heater control? if you need another vacuum source, there seems to be 2 or 3 lines coming off the intake. thx.

What kind of screen are you referring to? The list of topics? The screen with all the posts?

Oh..... I get it............... ha ha ha haha ............

What's that guy's email address? Or the syndicate's address. For as much as they pay him, he should know that a REAL Fcar has no power windows, steering, even radio. No DVD, playstation, X-Box, rear-view video, subwoofer, or what else. Maybe in person he knows what's right, but WE should let the writers know they have Enzo rolling in the grave on that one. Rest in Peace, Enzo.

Yep, stock 3 Spd shifter on the original auto trans. I also baught a LEATHER jacket from the Salvation Army store, and I'm going to cut it up to make a shifter boot. Or two or three even. I figure one sleeve= one shifter boot. I'lll bet the shifter knob will fit most any auto trans with a 1/2 inch O.D. shaft and an adjustable pushrod. I made an adapter to fit the knob to shaft from a few brass tubes.

I'll give up my opinion on this: First, AMPERAGE has little or nothing to do with the problem. I agree with the system running at a lower voltage does have an effect, but you need to look at the other thing that controls the speed: the delay unit. It not only puts you in slow or high-speed mode, but controls the intermittent delay. Remember that when you press the washer button, it swipes 3 times, then stops? That the electronic unit for you. I would probably bet that there's some oxidation iin ther that's not letting the voltage get to the motor. This could be confirmed by putting battery voltage directly to the motor. ANYBODY GOT A PIN-OUT FOR THE WIPER-MOTOR CONNECTOR? my too sense. lol

I replaced the stupid, plastic t-handle on the auto shift lever with one from a Dodge Intrepid. It looks like a manual srtick now, and you can't see the button, because it's on the front! (not side)

Doesn't the G-machine setup take care of flex with the cupped aluminum thing and the plastic piece with the rounded end? All that stuff should pivot/swivel easily and the rod should only experience minimal stresses, according to how tight the nut is on. Of course, a pair of new RUBBER bushings would only help minimize what flex is left. Why use Polyurethane bushings on something that flexes and breaks?

It looks like there is a big angle on the steering shaft. You got any idea on how to mate that to the Z steering column? It looks like the stock Z rack bushing will fit? I'd really like some feedback on this one. I'm taking my car to the body shop later today. Hopefully the guy will figure out how to get the Mustang rack to mount under the L28 oilpan (mustaang rack is a little too high). How would you feel about having the rack stick down lower than the crossmember? If you bottommed out on a gravel drive, you could knock the rack off......

Is that the one that will lower your car about 3/4 inch? I was thking about using that (from MSA) and a set of MSA lowering springs (1 1/2 inch) to get 2 inches lower.

Nic- I once thought of using the divided bumper, but I didn't think they could be mounted well enough to be useful in a collision, at least head on,not to mention a corner hit. The idea was to lose a little weight and open up the front for airflow to the radiator. Well, it works on a Porch at least....

How much can you lower the front of a car before you start getting the extreme T.C. rod flexion? I was thinking of about 2 inches on my 280Z. Also, I have a T.C. rod kit from (somewhere), do you really need the cupped spacer & teflon thing or can you just drill the bushing? Where do you get the G machine stuff?

OUCH..... About a year ago, on the cross-city freeway (in my Escort), I was behind and left of a ltrailor-truck hauling a really big Hot tub that wa resting on big foam blocks (about 1 x 2 x 3 FEET). One of the block got loose & fell off, into my lane with no room to swerve, so i tried a glanncing blow with the corner of the bumper. Well, it just put a little nick in the paint and bounced off into the lane to the left where a big rig was. This truck just ran right over the foam block (you could hear the BOOM) and I saw a 'snowstorm' of foam pieces in the rearview mirror. Looked like the foam was cut in half. Also avoided an incident with a complete retread last week- was able to miss it totally. Why don't people report this stuff, so it gets removed?

Wouldn't counter-sunk rivets be better?

How do you explain all those fiberglass body part that are still stuck on after so many years?

No 7-=11s here. Where else can you get a prepaid cell phone? It's the ONLY way you'll get me to use one: outgoing only, and temporary use.

Right. only if HIS check clears first!

I remember seeing semi-chrome in better auto parts stores. The kind with the go-fast parts for domestic cars. I wouldn't be surprised if Sears had it too. Can you get FLITZ in a store?

Polish what? your shoes? Dude, you can edit your posts to correct misspelled words & stuff. FYI: Use the EDIT button at the top of your message.