janaka

So yesterday I finally got my fuel pump rewired from a previous issues so I went for a little drive to my office to make sure all is well as my wife was going to take the car to the Z-Fest car show next weekend. Well I thought the brakes felt a little soft when I was on the highway but I hadn't drive it in a while so I didn't think much of it. I came to a stop after the off-ramp from thee highway and I pumped the brake to keep pressure as I was on an incline. I stopped for a coffee shortly before going to my office and met a friend. Hour later hop in the car and put my foot on the brake and go to start the car. Foot hit the floor. WTF. Pump the peddle, no pressure building. WTF. Popped the hood, saw the close resivoire was empty and looked for a leak. Found a puddle by the passanger tire. Poopy. My friend came by with a jack and we looked to see if we could find the leak and we did, looks like the hardline by the passanger header (JTR headers on LS1 swap). What a total PITA spot, murphy's law. We filled the resivior and I limped the car back home and in the garage. I'm thinking of running a new hardline but instead of trying to get it back into the stock location I'd run it around the front instead as I have no idea how I will get it as it was stock due to the swap and such. Are there any negatives to running the line in a non-stock location as long as its away from moving parts?

I didn't buy the blower in the end. Just too many things weren't making sense from the seller; he had it insalled on an LS2 and said it bolted on fine, then when I asked about the accessories he said he changed them for the truck ones but "forgot" to mention that... He was asking about $2300cdn obo + shipping.

that would mean swapping water pump, alt and crank pulley? poopstick.

Hey guys I'm currently looking a a magnacharger MP112 that was for the 4.8/5.3/6.0L LS motors. I'm currently running an LS1 from the firebird with only a water pump and alternator (no ps/ac). I know that it will bolt up to the heads but I'm wondering about the belt for the accessories (and now blower). Does anyone know if they are the same? Obviously I'll need a longer belt but otherwise will they line up? The current owner of the kit says that it was installed on an LS2 vette and says it'll bolt onto the LS1, i just want to make sure I know what i'm getting into compatibility wise. thanks

Those sleevs are meant to not sit on the perches as stated above. The stock perches need to be cut off and tabs welded onto the strut tubes (carefull) for the sleeves to sit on so the car will be lower. There is a sticky around here somewhere that tells you at what point its suggested to have the tabs welded at. The only coilovers that are meant to be installed that way are the Cosmo Racing coils from ebay as the coils themselves are shorter. time to remove and reinstall those.

My 16x8 0 offest XXR's 245/45/16 our back and 225/50/16 upfront. rear fenders were rolled to get it low and not rub.

Best. Spoiler. Ever. Love the tweaks to make it truly Datsun-esque. Great work on completing the project with better than expected results.

Pre-first child I drove my 2006 civic sedan. Since our first child I get to drive my wife 2004 honda accord coupe v6 6spd. worked out wel for me

my other thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/63435-my-ls1-into-280z-parts-listprice-list/page__p__589801__hl__ls1+cost__fromsearch__1entry589801

Everyone will be different. I'm pretty sure I made a post that broke everything down that I put into the car on here... Depends on what the car has already and what you plan to do. Before you swap you should have good brakes, good suspension, tires, fuel system, cooling system to handle V8 I bought wilwood brakes ($750), suspension was done, new tires were only $200, fuel system was completely new for this, upgraded and was about $1500 for pump, lines, pressure regulator, fittings etc. Add in guages for poil pressure, coolant temp, tach/speedo and thats another $500 or so. My rad was basically toast so I got a new rad as well. Was that "needed" for the swap? No. Did it make me feel better about the cars capabilities for the new motor? Yes. $3000+ before the motor was in. But thats not really part of the swap per se. John's Cars website has the prices for motor mounts, tranny mount, driveshaft. Thats all you "need" to get it in really. Then add time and marginal cost for wiring and plumbing (cooling/fuel/air).

I'm probably in the teens for milage 13-19 mixed. That said I have 3500miles on the swap in the two yrs its been on the road. So for me either the clutch is in or the right foot is down. I'm sure on the hwy I can get mid-high 20's if cruising in 6th gear if I tried...big if there because 4th gear on the hwy is just a TON of fun. mods 224/224 cam FAST 90mm intake and TB 1 3/4" headers 3" sinbgle exhuast

what part of the car is the bracket hitting? Can that part be trimmed some too?

I've seen those 5.3L heads as an option as well... To further the "while I'm at it" would it be wise to swap the cam while I have the top half off anyway? I'm thinking something in the torquer V2 (still under .600 lift and 230's duration)... didn't you run that cam for a while colt?

i found the fast 90/90 to be a huge seat of the pants mod on my car. dyno showed a modest 14rwhp increase or so gain but huge gains on the road.

Hey guys I'm currently itching for something to do on the car since I haven't done anything to it in a while and its fun for me. anyway my current setup is 2000 LS1 T56 224/224 .567" I/E on 114 LSA camshaft (with appropriate springs/pushrods) FAST 90/90 intake/tb sanderson 1 3/4" headers 2.5" exhaust off collectors to single 3" (no cat/res) bullet style magnaflow muffler (have electric cutout to install, 3") Current best 1/4 mile is 11.77 @119 with a 1.77 60' on 235/60/15 MT Street ET drag radials Power output is 378 rwhp 367trq (400 was tire spin) My heads are currently stock 241 castings with the upgraded springs. I'm thinking with the FAST intake and cam that heads are the next power mod that should make it all work together and unlock some synergies of the mods I have. I'm wondering if stock 243's heads are worth while since they flow a bit better and give a slight bump in compression. Or I could get them then mill them to decrease the Combustion Chambers to further bump the compression (I have 94 octane readily available here) but I'd keep it reasonable. Another option that is popular for my small-ish cam are the 5.3L heads milled to 59cc chambers which gives the compression bump. Goals = 11.49 or so for the track so not huge there, the magical 400rwhp would be nice but driveability on the street is the most important, flatter torque curve to redline, I'm assuming that the flow is hurting me in the top end. Thoughts? Comments?

I had AN bungs welded into the stock tank to accept russell fittings which are on all my hoses.

Sorry for the slow reply guys, baby at home getting all the attention (cute little bugger!) anyway previous #'s were 363/353 (in sig) on the same dyno Front accessories: Alternator and water pump (no PS, no AC, stock Fbody drive pulley) The cam is a comps cam, pretty sure it was custom ground for the previous owner though. That said almost every LS1 store that does cams offers a 224/224 cam similar to the one I'm running. I'd probably go for the 228/228 version vs this as this is REALLY tame (i guess there's a reason they call it a baby cam, lol) I'd also opt for the 112 LSA for a slightly choppier idle. This is a great driver came though if you daily your car and not offenive to drive (my wife drives it with ease). They come up for sale on LS1tech.com all the time. Check any of their vendors and you'll find a similar cam. I'd LOVE to pick up a set of the 5.3L CNC'd heads which give a bump in compression and flow better than the stock heads I have now. They would be a great match to the cam, even the LS6 heads(243's) would be a nice addition if I got them milled to get a tad more compression. If I pull the heads off I'd have a hard time not pulling the cam for something a bit more aggressive though, lol. While I'm at it disease and all I have a friend selling a 3" electric cutout that I'm trying to work a deal on as well, dump it right at the collector and watch out! Braap may have it right with the tire spin theory as I *think* I heard someone at the dyno day comment on the pass side tire spinning during the first pull. I'll have to talk to the guys and see if I remember correctly. If that's the case 14trq and 15rwhp increase from intake and TB untuned. I think there is a few hp/trq in it with a tune (or at least straighten out the back end of the trq curve). Still not too shabby, moreso than just the #'s the car is waaay more fun to drive and dropped tons of time at the track. That's what I call a WIN/WIN!

I can say that if you plan to drag race I'd probably look to sump the tank unless you want to race with a decent amount of fuel in the tank. I noticed some starvation at the top of 1st and 2nd gears (stutter till the nose dropped then pull again) when the back end would squat at the track if i had little gas left in the tank

I'm running an A1000 pump on my LS1 swapped car as well. My setup is: Stock tank => -10AN supply to pump =>-8AN feed to Aeromotive filter => -8AN feed to Aeromotive regulator in engine bay => -6AN to rail. -6AN return to tank. All stainless braided lines. Pump is a tad loud to some people, but its quieter than the Holley Red carb fuel pump the car had on it for the I6 and I personally don't mind it.

I used eDead on my car (whole spare tire well, rear deck by compartments, front floors, doors) and I have to say that with my LS1 and a free flowing exhuast there is little difference. The car is just loud. Loud pipes save lives though as they say. In hindsight if I knew how loud my exhuast was going to be (did deadening before swap) I probably would have skipped the deadening. Now I'm looking at a cutout on top of it all My whole car shakes already, I can't wait to feel it with open dump under my ass.

I went to a dyno day on saturday with a bunch of local guys (mainly imports, but cool kids). This is the 3rd time this shop has dyno'd my car, first was I6 then right after my swap and now this past weekend. My setup: 2000 LS1- stock short block/heads T56 transmission. all pulls in 4th gear 224/224 .567/.567" on 114LSA camshaft upgraded springs/pushrods FAST 90mm intake and FAST 90mm TB sanderson 1 7/8" hugger headers 2.5" off collectors to 3" single exhuast (no cat or res but a small magnaflow bullet style muffler) I'm pretty sure thats all the mods to the engine. Other details for those who care. Stock open R200 diff with 3.90 gears, aluminum driveshaft, Z31 cv axles, 245/45/16 rear tires, 1/2 tank 92octane (mix of 94 and 91 from last two fill ups) Other pertinant info which may help explain some randomness. I had a HUGE exhuast leak, also known as one header collector bolt went missing, arg. So I installed a new bolt on Friday afternoon and leak is fixed. My O2 sensor is right after the collector so it was driving a tad funny due to the O2 not reading properly. Dumb me didn't drive the car until the 15min drive to the dyno day so I don't think the PCM got to re-learn at all. Stupid me. The biggest concern is the weird peak/drop at 4200-4500rpm, then the trq continues to drop off but the HP curve picks back up. Here's the dyno vid of the first run: http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk268/elcamino-dude/dyno%20day/?action=view&current=040.flv Peak HP 378 Peak trq 400 Thoughts? Comments? Concerns?

well i finally got around to pulling out these bolts and putting in the new ones with the metal locking nuts. well holy snit, all 4 had the threads destroyed in the middle section of the bolts (worn FLAT) and 3 of 4 were slightly bent. These were fubar'd much worse than I ever imagined. The bolts themselves were stamped 8.8 on the top although I'm not sure if thats the grade rating or not but I'm glad that they were somewhat strong as to not have completely let go when they came loose when I was driving. Its scary when I look at them now. I took the car out and beat on it for a bit with the wife and all seems well. I'll probably put the car up this week to make sure that they are still tight just to be safe. thanks again to those who helped, a potential crisis was adverted. I'll try to post a pic of a bolt later on when I get a chance. jason

aftermarket seats will be the only reason people don't fit into a Z IMO. After putting my recaro's in my 6'6 friend doesn't like me so much, but thats ok, I don't want him driving the car anyway

I had them made by a local datsun member who has made them before. he/we are in canada though. if you want i could see if i still have his contact info.

awesome. just awesome. You really can see the sharpened quaters in some of those pics. nice touch.