dexter72

Not sure what engine you have now, but you can turbo an L28 NA engine if you cant find an L28et. If it were me I would get the body work and suspension work done first. Put the engine in it before painting it. Less chances of scratching the new paint up...

If you have an L28 in your car, You can turbo it but you will eventually want more.. I enjoyed my NAT L28 but after being messed with by a lot of cars on the freeway, Pulled away from some, Others i had no chance. I said enough of this crap. Lol The costs to upgrade my old L28 and do this swap were close. New cam, followers, and Headwork would have been about $900. For $200 bucks more i have this 2j swap, plus to upgrade this I only need larger injectors so i can add more boost. You can get 200hp out of an l28 with just the turbo swap, if thats all you want...

Its all good. I just wanted to show people this swap is doable on a low budget. Car is meant to have fun.. If I wanted to race the car I would have done this differently.

Hi Zetsaz and thanks again, In my second to last post has the cost in it.. $1,100 bucks. I already had the standalone. The MS2 standalone and parts would be another $600. Budget cost and self built. Car has been driveable since late October.. Junkyard parts to help keep cost low.

Hi Kyle319, Just message me when your ready and i will help you out. Remember that any timing map you use, you have to change it for your engine. Your new engine swap should run off of any L28turbo, 7mgte, 1jzgte or 2jgte map.. Then you have to make changes as you drive the car.. If you dont YOU MAY BLOW YOUR ENGINE UP. I have been doing street tuning and freeway tuning runs when i have time to do so. Engine is running off of my L28 NAT Map.. Im just making changes as i drive the car.. Christmas time is here and work is slow so not a lot of extra money to spend on tuning.. I have been looking at 2JZ tunes on Supra Forum and 7MGTE tunes.. Surprisingly all are very close to mine, depending on Turbo boost levels.. Im running off of my 15psi Tial wastegate spring.. Which showed 13psi of boost on my gauge, with the L28NAT Engine.. I am only looking for high 300hp but no more than 450hp on the street. I think anything over that is overkill and you cant use it anyway. Im not dumping the clutch in 1st gear since i have the W-58 trans in my car. I used to get messed with all the time on the Freeway, so i want 4th gear right.. Future plans: A new set of tires. New alternator, mine is whining.. The engine is really loud with the Flowmaster muffler on it, so looking to quiet it down some with another muffler.. I bought an Ebay special GT35 T4 Turbo thinking it would boost at about 3,000rpm.. But full boost is coming on at 3,800rpm which im not really liking.. So hopefully i can lean out the tunes freeway map areas to get the turbo to boost sooner.. Otherwise im going to get a smaller turbo for the engine.. Im so glad i didnt get the GT45 turbo i was thinking about. This is why I bought the cheap chinese turbo in the first place. Id rather spend $250 for a turbo and not like it, then $800 and not like it. Later i can buy the quality Garrett, Precision and so on. Last sunday i was doing some 4th gear tuning runs. I was doing 75 in 4th gear and floored it.. Car pulled so hard it took me into the next lane. Glad i do those with nobody next to me. Engine is strong. Stock 2JZGTE Boost is 10.8psi. So this thing at 13-15psi definately makes my day. The difference between my old L28NAT and this 2JNAT are night and day..

T3/t4 tturbo or maybe a T04..I had a 57 trim turbo on my z and it spooled realy quick. My earlier turbo reference was to see if you like how that Ebay turbo spools, It could be just what you want. If so, then get a Turbonetics, Precision or Other...

Just a few quick thoughts With the e88 head isnt the compression going to be really high ??.. Lower compression means your able to boost higher.. Have which ever cylinder head you use ported. intake also.. Engine will need to breath... You should look into 440cc injectors.. . Look for an early non-egr intake, they look cleaner... GM air intake sensor for MS Unit.. I would look into using that ebay turbo, just to see if you like it.. You then can decide if you want larger or l smaller turbo.. Then get a good one.. 3.90 gear may be too much for the 5spd trans.. I had one in my Nat-turbo Z and first gear was useless. Only in first gear for like 3 seconds.. Never driven a 4spd turbo z though....

I would try joining the Club Lexus forum, they may be able to help with some wiring info. Diagrams, Possible harness.

Your welcome.

If your sticking with the Datsun/Nissan, you need a mid 90's on up tps sensor.. Those are the potentiometer type of sensors.. Your zx sensor is basically an on off switch. You can make the later style sensor, which most are smaller, attach to the earlier style sensor mounting plate. Just use the early sensor mounting plate. drill the center hole a little bit larger.. grind down the step on center of the plate.. Drill 2 holes in the bracket to attach the later sensor to the earlier bracket you modified..

You may need a different camshaft and related engine parts... R200 Posi rear end.. Different Trans.. Maybe the T5 or 240sx Trans swap... I would look into lowering the compression closer to stock ratio...

I appreciate the members who post pics and info of their build threads, I read a ton of threads on here and on the Lexus forum. Tons of info to use and save. This cost me about $1,100. Max.. I rebuilt the engine, bearings rings valve job. I already had the Megasquirt2 Stand alone unit and harness.. So tack on another $600 bucks for that stuff. You can run these engines off of a 2JGTE Ecu.. or any other Stand Alone unit.. I went with thr trigger wheel, sensor and coil pack because the Megasquirt is already set up to run that system.. The lack of trans setup pics was only because i was getting into it didnt stop for pics.. The trans mount is the toyota bracket with 2 stainless steel brackets bolted to the z tunnel. Shifter i made. You can see one of the stainless steel brackets in the trans hole.. Console put back in using the Z shift boot. and thicker lower z trans hole cover.. Toyota shifter barely peeking out.. Lol Works good though.. I do have to watch my hand when putting the car in reverse. E-brake handle is close.

For the throttle cable i used a long cruise control cable from some toyota.. Lol Made a cable bolt thingy to secure the cable to the Z throttle rod bracket.. I couldnt find the right type of cable collar at a bike shop, so i made this. I used the fan because im old school, I have seen 2 of these go bad in all my years of working on cars. That's almost 30 years. I cut a half inch off of each blade tip to make sure i had good clearance for my lower radiator hose and top running inter cooler pipe.. Found a Ford throttle body hose that fit the 2 1/2 intercooler piping and was a tad bit large for the Toyota throttle body.. Made a spacer for the throttle body to ford hose connection.. The Ford hose had a port in it to mount my Intake temp sensor for Megasquirt 2. I got the engine to run but it took 3 weeks to figure a Megasquirt 2 settings issue.. Megasquirt Unit couldn't see the crank sensor signal. Even though the engine would run if i sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body. Engine had spark and fuel.. Engine is all done.. For exhaust i just used he back half of the 3'' flowmaster setup that was on it.. Used a few pieces from a 3'' system i got from the Junkyard.. Braze welded it all together with a oxy/acetelyne torch.. I drove it home Nov 1st.. Had good power for no boost driving. i figured it would be a dog. Tuning it as i drive it.. Boost doesnt really kick in until about 4k right now. Going to lean out the freeway numbers some to try to it to boost sooner in 4th gear.. It pulls hard at 4k but i dont have the higher end tuned yet so i dont push it. Gt35 turbo 68. ar housing.. Think it should boost by 3500 rpm. Its cool weather in Phoenix now so when i have time to drive and tune i do. Exhaust is loud as hell so may remove the Fowmaster and find a quieter muffler.. Has a little drone to it at 2500rpm which i am fine with but me and my buddy cant talk to each other in the car.its so loud. Lol

The Transmission sits forward a little over an inch then i expected. I did the measuring before i got the 2j bell housing. Found out afterwards that the 2j bell housing is an inch shorter than the 5mge bell housing the trans came with.. Damn.. SO that made the driveshaft that much shorter.. I ended up buying a 1 1/2 thick, aluminum drive shaft spacer from ebay, to make up for the gap. I had it drilled to match the rear pinion flange bolt pattern.. I swapped the Datsun drive shaft front yoke for the Toyota drive shaft yoke. I kept the Datsun drive shaft.. I found a u-joint that was perfect for that. Had to press the Old Staked In u-joint caps out. and it was done.. This is my 3/4 inch aluminum plate to mount the throttle body to the Xs power intake.. I couldn't find a Q45 throttle body, which is recommended for that intake. But i found the throttle body off the Lexus LS 400, non Traction control, would work.. So I worked on how to mount both up. I ended up drilling the plate to match the intake thread holes.. But I drilled one of the holes way off. Went to Harbor freight to try out those alumi weld rods, to fill in the hole and re-drill the plate. Well the damn things worked out fine. I heated up the aluminum plate with a torch.. Had a peice of steel underneath the plate. And it took 2 rods to fill in the hole. Let it cool on its own over night.. Checked it and it was good to go. Drilled the hole in the correct spot with no issues. I tapped threads into the front of the plate for studs and the throttle body slid right on. Working on the inter cooler mounting brackets. My beat up 7MGTE Inter cooler.. Working on Inter cooler pipe routing. You can see my Pcv abd booster hoses coming through the firewall Fuel pressure regulator mounted, fuel hoses run.. Oil Dip stick tube bent to come up between the intake runners.. Made a bracket to mount it steady..

Your going to have to look for the connector ends if you dont want to cut the harness. Or just cut the zxt dist wires right before the connector.. Not sure if the zxt has a cylinder head temp sensor or not.. You may be able to use that as an engine coolant reference for megasquirt. Your going to need connector ends for the injectors. They have quick disconnect ends online and at auto parts stores, that fit on the injector ends.

Your going to need the connector ends for the Coil, Distributor. Your going to need a 240sx or a 90's nissan linear TPS Sensor and connecor. Are you using the coolant temp sensor for engine coolant temp?.

Thanks Drift Boss, Lol Just showing people i did this swap and they can do it also, and it not cost $12k or more. Now it was done at my work but still with nothing special.. The lift helps a lot though...

Dang stony, 2jzs are in yards out here all the time. We have $69.00 all you can carry Junkyard days out here. I carried tons of parts out of the yard on those days. Doing my build thread now. Its not anything close to an epic build. Junkyard low budget special.

Now we get to the fun stuff. How am i going to run this engine. Running a toothed wheel setup.. DIY.com Ford Edis 6. from a Mid 80's 6cyl Ford Ranger... Toothed wheel sensor from a Taurus. I already had a Megasquirt 2 Stand alone system, running the L28NA-T on my start page. I ground down some of the crank bolt so the wheel would sit flush on the balancer with the bolt tight.. 2J balancer only has 2 bolt holes to bolt a trigger wheel onto.. I wasn't comfortable with that.. So in my searching i found that the 1JZ balancer has 4 holes in the balancer. But the 2 extra holes are just holes, no threads but they are all perfectly centered. Only difference between the 2 balancers.. I bought a 1J balancer. Drilled the 2 extra holes so i could put thread inserts in them. You can see the Trigger wheel and Sensor on the front of the engine. As the picture says.. We only had one guy that I worked with who was thin enough to get their arm all the way inside the intake. I say he was 120lbs Soaking wet. The intake is bolted from the inside, I added studs to the rear intake plenum before having him tighten them up for me. My man was Shoulder Deep up in it. Lol Hope all his young ladies appreciate how deep he will go. Put all the goodies on it and Started labeling and running the sensor wires and Edis wires. Now where to mount the Edis6 coil pack, to keep the clean look going. Inside the cowl works for me. I removed the wiper motor and parts 13 years ago. Since it rarely rains in Phoenix anyway.. Choices were RainX or don't drive it when its raining. I have a small bottle of RainX in my glove box, just in case i get caught in the rain. When i was waiting on my exhaust manifold i was still working on things and figuring out things.. Made this shield to protect the wiring that has to run on top of the passenger side frame rail.. Factory wiring for the lights and alternator.. Made a heavy duty battery mount similar to the factory battery mount. I will have a couple of things bolted to the battery mount.

Looking Sweeeeet. FFIM finally i found one that wasn't $800. Lol Ebay companies had sold out of these so the only one left that had them wanted $800 each. Lol Since i had to wait on my turbo manifold anyway. I waited and searched daily for 3 weeks and finally found someone selling his on ebay. So I just paid his $125. buy it now price for it... 2 weeks after i bought this, the ebay companies started stocking them again. Firewall is a mess and inner fenders are as well. Cleaned them up and painted them with Bedliner paint. Checking intake clearance, about 1/2 inch of space between brake booster and intake. Firewall and fenders all finished.. Engine is back in for the last time. Crappy looking valve cover is on. Making sure i can remove them if needed. I removed the rear most valve cover studs at the back of the head, And added bolts, otherwise you can't take the valve covers off. Engine parts all painted up on the stand. Under the spark plug cover you can see the oil feed line i ran. I bent it and ran it under the cover. Just looks better to me, the cleaner you can run lines.

Makaofox, I will see when and if it does crack. I never drove the car more than 3 times a week when i had the L28NA-T setup in it, So maybe that will give me more time. Lol Stay tuned, like my start page says the engine runs and I only ran a few different wires than the L28 set up had. engine has been running since May. Driving the car for 3 weeks now.

Nelsonian, Its just an ebay Turbo manifold for a 2JGE. I think it was $170 bucks. I ordered this one after the other company took 3 weeks to tell me they couldn't get me the correct manifold i ordered.. They sent me the GTE Manifold twice, even though their site says 2JGE. After that crap, this one was ordered from a company in China, and it got to me in 4 Days. Talk about overnight parts from Japan. Japan aint got nothin on China. Lol I was expecting it to take 2 weeks to get to me. Everything on the shipping box was in Chinese except my name and dealership name. Makafox, I have wanted to do this swap since 2006.. Life kept getting in the way, things had slowed down for me, so i said hell, Its time. I'm 9 years late but it got done. I am posting the info to show people that you don't have to spend 12K to do a 2j swap. If you have the extra cash go for it. But for most an extra 12k is going to be spent on something else. This is just an option, I have read many a swap thread so i took things i had read and remembered options for my own swap. 9 years of wanting to do this and tons of saved thread info on my laptops, has helped keep the costs low.

I found these on a Kenworth truck at the Junkyard, they are the rear cab mounting brackets. Heavy duty steel. Part of my $69 all i could carry day. When any Junkyard has those days, just get the things you think you can use for a project. I mean no way could you buy just these for $69 bucks. I had a dufflebag full of parts, that i carried out of that Junkyard. Buddy had bought a new welder, wanted to get some more practice so i said Weld Away. lol He has done a lot welding on a jeep and mustang projects he has at his house. Great welds and free for me. So he was treated to many a free lunch. Cant turn back now, Sparks are Flying. His last words to me were, Hope that engine doesn't fall out. As im putting the engine in for the last time. Thanks Man

Hey Ryan Merrill, Even though all i read about was how the W58 is made out of glass, Its what i could find at a good price and i know a guy who can rebuild it, if it does break. I figured if guys are turboing the Is300 with a W55 trans, The W58 will hold up as long as im not dumping the clutch.

I probably set the engine in the car about 7 times checking clearances and alignment. I have to recheck everything still once the Turbo manifold and FFIM show up.. I also started painting the engine parts and cam gears and front covers. Turbo manifold showed up so I can really start to see how much space the parts are going to fill up the engine compartment. Still checking and mocking it up. Turbo showed up a few days later so i had to put the engine back in the car to take pics, I am excited by how its looking. I have got to figure out how and where to set up my engine mounting brackets now. Lol