dexter72

Im thinking this guy is among the generation NOT born in the 50's 60's or 70's. Seems a lot of the younger folks were brought up in the Wussification of America era. You know this new era of: Medals and trophies for participating in sports, instead of actually earning them for coming in first, second or third. The ones looking to be Spoon Fed any info instead of spending weeks and or months reading and researching. The ones who finish an automotive school and then expect to be working on real customers cars right off the bat. Instead of earning a mechanic position by doing oil changes, doing good work, not leaving drain plug bolts loose, and oily messes inside customers cars, sweeping floors, cleaning up after techs and dumping trash. Thats what i run into every day as a tech at a Nissan Dealership and as a dad. Young people show some respect for people who have been doing car work for decades. Dont kiss ass, just be respectful. Dont act like you know what your talking about because you just read it in the latest car magazine. Search as much as you can, Save info as much as you can, Learn as much as you can. Research as much as you can. John, Be You. Steppin down off the soap box now, Who's next to step up on it??...

I second the check both brake light sockets, Also check the entire circuit, check for power, ground, melted terminals, and bad bulbs..

You should also get a wideband setup so you know what your afr's are. Why don't you want megasquirt to control your ignition?. It is a full Standalone unit.

Nice, glad you have it taken care of.

Have tried putting lower numbers in your VE Tables at idle??.. Have you tried lowering the required fuel ??..

MSN, Washington Post Online, and Yahoo. Hail to the REDSKINS.

I did see someone has a required fuel of 11.2, turbo with stock turbo injectors, 2.4l engine though. You can adjust required fuel up/down some and see how the engine runs. I would still fix your VE tables, some of them are all over the place. I would remove your Wideband until you can figure out the rich run issue, Sensor may get ruined with the extra fuel. If your tuning to get the engine to idle/run better, have you set Megasquirt so it doesn't make adjustments while your tuning??.

Ok, With just a quick check your VE Tables are all over the place. Both the VE Table 2's look way off. It may help also if you list the injector CC's your using and so on. Your timing maps are off too in the higher rpm sections but that won't cause a rich run. 36 degrees advace at 5,000rpm is to high. Look in the map sharing sticky section, find a map that comes close to what parts you have in your engine. Look at the timing and fuel sections and you will see what i am talking about.

Does the engine miss at idle, under a load, or both ??.. Have you tried isolating the miss to a particular cylinder??.. You can either try pulling one spark plug wire at a time and then re-connect it. or you can disconnect the connector to each injector one at a time. The engine idle will not change noticeably, on the cylinder that has the issue. Try isolating the engine miss. Then you can work on diagnosing what is causing the miss.

I am just going to type it. Brian Spillner and Dominic Terreto can help you out. How i would build a 10 second S30, 2jz, bigger cams, 900cc injectors, big single turbo, G.M. turbo 400 trans, r200 diff, roll cage, beefed up frame rails.

You may be able to buy the stepper drill bits from a harbor freight, if you have them in your area. 3 different ones come in the package. Cheap costs also.

Good call Newzed.

Boog, If im not mistaken you can lower the zx crossmemeber for easier pan removal if needed. Then jack the crossmember back up into place. Been a while since i have done work on a zx. And yes to your earlier post, you swap all of your turbo parts into the 76. Backyard Turbo???... Remember this is your car do with it what you want. A few of my co-workers told me i couldn't turbo my N/A engine with turbo parts and the stock N/A harness. I did that. A few years later, they said i couldnt buy a low cost standalone for my car, I did that too. Megasquirt. Now they are saying i can't put a 2jz engine in my 260Z. Guess whats happening in October. )

Nice man, I live in Phoenix AZ now but, I grew up in Columbia Md, As a young adult in Ellicott City / Jessup area, Where in Elkridge was the show??..

You can use a ZX Booster if you can't find what you want. I installed an 83zx booster in my 260z it fits in it upside down, it doesn't know the difference. )

There is plenty of info on this site about what parts you need for a turbo build, Take your time, save and read up on a few posts. Enjoy

With Megasquirt you just input the tps closed and wide open Ohm readings, into the laptop or whatever your going to use to connect to the unit. The 4 puck clutch may be one of the causes of your rough starts. You need a 240sx tps sensor or a later model nissan sensor and adapt it to the 280zx throttle body, for megasquirt. I made an adapter out of the metal part of a larger nissan tps sensor. I started with just the metal backing, I drilled out the tps hole to a larger size, then mounted the smaller tps to the larger backing. So now the smaller tps fits onto the zx throttle body. The 280zx tps sensor is just an on off switch type and will not work with megasquirt.

240z fuel tank should work also since the early 260z was based off of the later 240z.

If you can wait a month, a guy on here is going to start making and selling engine mounts for about $400. I would not spend a grand for a mount kit. If you can make your own or fab up your own engine mounts, that would be even better. On a side note, I hope you do a lot of searching about this total swap, it is not cheap to do. $5k to 7k. If you don't have to worry about the costs then go for it and enjoy.

You will have to decide what to do with the original wiring, depending on what your going to do with the car. Buy the megasquirt wiring harness, each wire is stamped for where it goes. Makes install easier.

The problem with not going past 5k may be your tune or your engine setup, include Injector cc's, Distributer or non distributor, Spark plugs, and Clutch. What is your spark plug gap??.. Can you list your setup and post your tune??...

You may have to remove the starter to check the ring gear/ flywheel and make sure the teeth aren't ground away. If the teeth look ok, you may have to shim the starter away from the teeth.

Hey Dudeboy, Tinkering/Modifying cars will never leave you. Even if you step away for a few years, you will always have the itch. And age won't matter. Im 48, have 2 daughters, one is 5 and the other is 7. I had them later in life thinking i would outgrow tinkering with cars by then. I find time for my car and my kiddos. I have been an automechanic since i was 17, I have been a Nissan Tech since 1998. After working on customers cars all day, i still like to mess with my Z, I built it the way i wanted it and as everyone knows, your car is NEVER FINISHED. ) After stepping away, you will feel that itch again. And its not Hemorrhoids Lol.

A few people with the same problem just run the cam as is, as long as the rust isn't to severe, posts say the rust just goes away. )

Remember to get or make the fuel rail to match the type of injectors your buying.