dexter72

To me if you want to bolt it to an L28 or L28et, i think its going to be expensive.. I think the 240sx trans is a better option.. Cost is the biggest factor.. I have seen a thread in another forum about the Bmw 5spd Getrag, bolting up to a 2Jz engine, using an adapter for $400. Said a guy on ebay was/is selling them.. Nothing else though.. Lexus forum, SC300-400, Performance and maintenance, page 2... The thread is still there.

Hey,, I will message a friend a mine this morning and let you know what he says.. This may not be worth it to do... I know he installed a J30 VLSD Diff in his 97 240sx but said it wore out in about 2 weeks. His was a stock 240sx with stock Ka engine. So he put another one in and the same thing happened... Not sure if that VLSD is that strong. He would drift the car on the street, not at the track..

KBB says value in very good condition $2,800 with 110k miles. Make sure it doesnt have any codes in the sysem if you can.. 2.5l have cat converter issues around that mileage... Cam and crank sensor recall, Ecm reprogram recall, Foam removal from the ecm case recall.. If you get the vin you can find which recalls apply to the car, They may have already been performed also. Im a Nissan Tech so just giving you info on that engine.

I had thought about this front subframe swap before, I threw the idea out when i found the overall front end, to be wider than i wanted it. I rememberit being 4 inches wider then the z's measurement. How much wider have you found it to be, over the stock z's ??.. The rear suspension should be interesting... I wIll be following your build.

What car did the 60mm throttle body come off of ??. If it was a 240sx That tps wont work correctly. Shouldn't matter if the tps came from a 5spd car or auto.. What you or your mechanic may be able to do is, adapt the 280zxt tps onto the base of the one already on the 60mm throttle body..

If you have a L28 turbo engine, Look on youtube for Cignus1 or l28 turb Megasquirt settings. He's a member on here and he posted a video of his settings on youtube. The video should be in this site also. His tunes are used by a lot of members they are really good. I downloaded and saved that youtube video myself..

1. if the non valve cover end of the hose goes to the intake air boot, that needs to be plugged. the valve cover port being open is ok. 2. Yes, not having an O2 sensor installed is ok. But het yourself a wideband setup. 3, You need to find out if that bank of unjectors are working or not. 4. Yes the spark plug needs to be close to a ground so the spark jumps. Or a screwdriver in the end of the wire will do the same thing. You need to look at the megasquirt map sharing sticky... Find a map that matches your engine and injectors. view and see if yours is close to one of those... Check the injector pulse width settings and percentage. Try increasing the percentage numbers and see if the engine will run longer.. Cignus1 or Cignus has a youtube video that may help you out also.. he has a turbo zxt...

Great, Now you can tune it.

I don't have a link but let me see if i can post a pic. Ground bar. Home Depot or Lowes. In the wiring/ electrical box isle. They come in a few different lengths. Around $10 bucks.

What i did and i copied another members idea. Get yourself a grounding block from Home depot or Lowes. Mount it, Then run all your M..S. sensor grounds, a large battery ground wire to the grounding block, and another large ground wire from the engine to the grounding block. I also ran another large ground wire from the engine to a frame rail. I mounted the grounding block, so you can only see it if you open the drivers side inspection lid. Ends up being really clean looking. Never had any reset issues.

Try back tracking and remove the starter and see if it turns. Possible starter problem, starter bolt problem.. Then try loosening up the trans bolts and see if the engine will turn... Just a thought, can you move the clutch fork back and forth ??.. Possible clutch part issue...

I know for stock nissan vehicles with factory computers you need to set up the tps correctly. But i don't really think you have to have it exact for a Megasquirt setup. I mean unless your multi meter shows the numbers going in the negative when opening the throttle plate, then going positive at some point before fully open. Using the multimeter to check tps sensors is always a good thing. All you need to do is measure the resistance fully closed, then at fully open. Input those numbers into megasquirt or let megasquirt do it for you. I have swapped over 2 seperate Nissan tps sensors onto my l28 engine. And now have done the same with this Toyota engine setup. All of them worked fine this way. I may be swapping this Toyota throttle body out and using a Ford one at some time. Going to use the same procedure, closed and open value inputs into Megasquirt.

See what changing the tps value to 6, at fully closed does. I don't think accel enrichment will turn on. Example, I have a 2jz in my 260z, using a Toyota throttle body. It would show 3 while my engine idled. So i just increased the closed number in megasquirt until it showed zero. I have No accel enrichment at idle

Unless you have a Standalone setup, you cant use a 240sx TPS on your engine.. The 240sx is a Potentiometer style TPS, like mostly all 90's and newer Nissans. 280z is basically an on off TPS.

Please do the checks for your timing and timing tab. Reset the distributor as was mentioned earlier. 42 degrees is way high when your in boost above 3,000rpm. Since your using a locked distributor I would set it to 17 - 20 degrees and leave it there. Then work on your carb jetting. If your wideband is reading correctly you should be at the AFR's that were mentioned earlier also. 11-11.5 full boost 16.0- 14.0 cruising. 13.0 - 12.0 at idle. We dont want to see you blow a headgasket.

Hope you meant running at 11.1 at full boost. and 14.1 off boost. Any cylinder head porting/polishing ??... Look forward to seeing the results with a good clutch.

Brian, I have a dumb idea for you. Find some cheap, car window rain louvers, the ones that keep the rain from coming into cars with the windows down part way. Cut out the inside of the louver so air will come though it and then attach it to the drip rail. Maybe attach it to the front part of the window rail. Double sided tape or screws and see what that does. $10 bucks and some time should be all it costs.

Looks good so far, Build threads are cool so keep us updated. My Drivetrain swap is slowing down because of this heat, working on my car after hours. WIll post a build thread when im almost finished. Im in a shop but we only have swamp coolers, they are working ok for now but not when the humidity comes at the end of the month. Where are you in AZ??.. Im in North Phoenix.

The base tune should be the same as the tunes in Megasquirt map sharing section. Just find one that comes close to your setup and copy it. If your using Megasquirt and your initial settings are changed for Edis ignition, you should be good to go for a start. I also like to make sure i have spark first, before letting fuel flow to the rail.

I think this issue is with the design of the S30. I have always said if the S30 had vent windows, it would take care of any air flow issues. My ZX had a lot more air coming into the cabin. Just get one of the VW air coolers on that car man. Im working on my driveshaft spacer Brian, it just came in the mail today.

From what i remember that type of diff is not the best. A buddy of mine wore 2 of those VLSD diffs out in a month, drifting in it with a stock 240sx. His VLSD diffs came from Infiniti J-30s. Just posting what i know of them, Maybe others have had better luck or found that they are ok to use.

Will all fit as has been said, A lot of people put the later model Hood Vent hood on, to help get rid of underhood heat.

I had the same issue on my 74 260Z. The system may have lost its gound. What you can do is add a ground wire to your headlight wiring before they seperate at the front of the car. The wiring should run along the passenger front side of the car. Look at a wiring diagram to see what im talking about. I just used a scotch lock to connect the add on ground wire at the harness, drilled a hole and bolted the other end to the frame. Turned my lights on and they worked on low beam again, did this 4 years ago, no problems since. Takes 15 minutes to do this. There is also a youtube video from a zguy who did the same thing, I think his z is a 77.

Looking good, Get it done before summer hits or you will be dying like ithe heat like me. I am doing a 2jzNa-t swap right now, Engine is in just trying to get it running on its own now. Engine runs with starting fluid though. Mine won't be done before summer temps hit here, So im going to be sweating my @$$ off in July and August. Had parts finding and parts making delays, now an MS2 tah signal issue.

I have an ancient version Megatune, MS2 v3 2.68 code. Bought from DIY.com 8 years ago. Was running my L28nat setup. Swapped a 2j-Nat in my car. Edis6 36-1 trigger wheel, vr sensor now. But No Tach Signal to MS2. I have spark at the plugs, I can run the engine on starting fluid. Looking for some assistance on trying to get a Tach signal. Shielded wire going to Ms2 from the Edis Module. Adjusted the trim pots, still nothing. Attached an MSQ Hopefully it opens up. Possible settings issue??.. Thanks for the assistance in Advance.. megasquirt201505031902.zip