dexter72

Checker or Auto zone used to sell the larger push in style spade fuse box. You just run a switched wire or battery power wire to the large terminal on the box. This makes each fused circuit you add to that box, switched on with the ingition key. I added 2 of those style boxes for my Megasquirt wiring. They cost like $10 bucks each. Will be right were the trailer lights and wiring aisle is.

I would try to find an LS forum with members in your area, car gathering with guys who have done LS swaps. This way you may be able ask about how they did there swap and let them know you are a Newbie. But really interested in doing the swap. Become friends with some so you can text, call, stop by there house to get info and maybe get some help as you go along. Read, read, read, and gather all the info you can, save links, pics, threads on your computer. To me you should spend weeks finding as much info as you can, Tools you will need. Find out what work you can do yourself to save money.

So the noise doesn't happen when the engine is cold or it isn't as consistant when the engine is cold???.. You can try using a long screw driver and place it on random parts of the engine when the noise occurs. Place your ear on the handle and where the noise is loudest is where the noise is coming from. I would check the engine first, then engine components, then exhaust, then trans. I will P.M. You with a little update

If you have the engine running, start driving it and use the wideband to help you tune it. Lean it out for highway cruises. Fill up the tank and enjoy learning about tuning your engine. Once i got my engine to run, I had a lot of fun tuning it. Then a friend of mine made map changes on the laptop, as i was driving it. Really fun first weekend tuning it.

NewZed, The 260z, The Evil Stepchild of the S30's strikes again. Lol Yeah i have the late model 260, Which is basically set up for the 280z. Larger fuel lines than the earlier 260 and Its wired just like a 280z, except of course no efi wiring. Found all that out when i first added 83 zx efi wiring and drivetrain to it. It's still my baby though so its getting 18 year old Japanese technology, instead of the 32 year old tech. It wont know how to act.

A draw isnt a big deal while the engine is running. The issue will always come up if you leave the car sitting. I will figure it out just have to go through my notes. Cars usually have draws from add on Amplifiers n Speaker boxes, and stereos. A Z doesn't need those things. Lol Have to wire the toyota alt up anyway so will work on both at then.

Thanks guys, the info i have been reading is a little confusing with most people saying the Toyota alt needs a charge light to operate. Plus it seems like this swap is mostly done using an entire toyota harness. I have had the battery drain ever since i did the internal regulator mod to my harness. I read i have to add something in the wiring to keep that from happening. Will do that after i hopefully get this thing running. I just disconnected a battery cable when i wasn't driving it. Will make a build thread once it runs, And yes i have been taking pics.

Nice, so the one sleeping on the top can lower himself down and smoosh the one sleeping on the bottom, for middle of the night bathroom breaks. Looks really nice, Are you that bed was made for them or you.

I have a couple of questions for the 2jz swap guys who used the z wiring harness for there install. Getting ready to install my 2JZGE-NAT engine in this weekend. How do you wire up the 97 2j alternator to the z harness ??.. Late year 74 260z with the internal regulator mod. Also has a 280z volt gauge installed. Using megasquirt, crank trigger wheel, and edis6 to run the engine. I have been reading about how the 2j alternator has to be hooked up to a charge light. Is that correct??.. Not sure if i keep the internal regulator harness mod. Thanks in advance for the assistance Joe

Nice an Armada pulling the Datsun, If one hadn't been so succesful in the 70's there would be no Nissan in the U.S. Thats my opinion and im sticking to it.

You should do a search for the answer.

You have it, Fill it in with JB Weld, RTV, Weld, and or Braze that area. You wont need the vacuum advance.

It looks like you can do it that way. but See the slots on the 2nd plate/ larger plate of that HEI style Pic??.. You weld, Jb weld, RTV those 2 slots closed so the centrifical advance can't move. The pins in the lowest plate move in the slots causing the advance to move depending on engine rpm's, so if you close the slots up the advance is locked.

Fill in the advance slots. Weld them, JB Weld them, RTV them closed.

Look up DIY Auto.com They have a writeup for running MS2 3.0 for EDIS.. From what i read, MS2 3.0 are pre-wired to run edis out of the box, if its from DIY. That may be why yours has already been jumpered. Just wondering, are you going to use a crank trigger wheel??..

The HR stands for High Rev, It has a different valve train setup and the front of the engine timing cover is different. I think that engine was only out for a couple of years. It's a harder engine to find and more expensive to buy, then the standard 3.5l Your going to have to research exactly what the differences are between years. I know that they added a different intake for the duel throttle bodies but not sure what year it was. Either the Orange or Yellow anniversary Z's were the first ones with the duel throttle bodies. Then a year later all 350's engines were made that way.

Sweeeet, Looking forward to your thread. 16 year Nissan tech here. Love different engine swap builds.

I don't think you can use that harness because it should be set up for a front crank sensor and the 82-83 engines don't use that setup to run the engine. Not sure about the ignitor or injector setup. It may be better for you to get an 82 or 83 harness and ecu. Or install a standalone setup if you can't get what you need. Do more research and let others chime in.

Get a fuel pressure gauge, install it and see what the pressure is. with the engine still running pinch the vacuum line to the regulator and pressure should increase. I don't remember what stock z fuel pressure range should be. Check the regulator vacuum hose by removing it with the engine off and checking for fuel in the vacuum hose.

Make sure the fuel pressure is good. Fuel pressure regulator is good, No fuel in the vacuum hose to the regulator. Also does it still have the o2 sensor, make sure its good. He should only get one more restest then he has to show he spent a certain amount of money for a waiver. Option that may be cheaper is to get collector car insurance on your car. And have your insurance company send you a letter stating that you have collector car insurance. Go down to the DMV and get your 5 year sticker for your license tag. No more emissions testing in AZ if you have collector car insurance. Get a policy that lets you drive the car about 2,500 miles a year. I have that on my Z.

You wont need a map since Megasquirt has one inside of it. You just connect a vacuum hose from your engine to the port on the Ms unit.

If you go turbo and add an inter cooler, i would put in the pipe before the throttle body. Mine is there and have no heat soak issues during the summers in Phoenix. 110 degrees from mid July through August.

Nice man, Did you get a Hook Up of some kind??..

Ok, For the Z you need an early year tps. Basically its an on off switch. 75-83. Look for Maximas and Datsun 810's, which is the maxima before it had a name. So either head out to the J-yards or go to Autozone and any auto parts store and ask for one for your model year engine. You will need to make the early Year TPS, fit the 240sx Throttle body. The 240sx tps is a Potentiometer. Value increases as its turned. Wont work with stock z ecu. If you have to have a cable you may have to make something work. Again head out to the J-yard. Its cheap and if you find something, you can then buy it New. Other option is to buy the Z, ZX, or Maxima throttle linkage parts you need off of a member on here, Craigslist, or Ebay.

Yes the Megamanual is a lot of reading and unfortunately, You will be reading it atleast 10 times. No Joke. Become a member on the Megasquirt site. Best advice is to, save links, save links, save links and read, read, read. You also need to decide how you want to get spark to the plugs. Bip Module, Crank trigger, Hall sensor, HEI Module. EDIS. If your going to turbo the engine or not. Quick List for you.. Relay Box and fuse box, Make your own or buy one G.M..Intake air sensor 90's Nissan TPS Sensor. Linear type Needed Low impedance injectors Resistors needed. High impedance injectors No resistors needed LC2 Wideband unit or whatever you choose 280z Electric fuel pump or aftermarket unit. Remove. Engine harness Air Flow Meter Your Welcome