speeder

Oh yeah - I'm using James' intake. I'l hang from my shop's rafters today and get a straight down shot of the assembled engine bay before the front end goes on - Really do have to update my website to reflect the current config. Chris, I have thought about finding a foundry to do casting - and duplicate this manifold - but only just "thought" about it- The other water line to the turbo goes to the 5/16" hose barb that comes off the front heater hose fitting at the front cover. I think that was the old air valve heater connection, as is the one visible in the picture.

Gabe, I should be able to run boost up to the mid-20s with this setup - I'm already looking into those bigger injectors (680 or 750cc) to accomodate. Joel, The manifold was ceramic coated by a local place here - I didn't get any pictures of this manifold's wastegate setup but it's very similar to the way I did my stocker, per these: The mod for the wastegate is pretty simple - you just have to be very precise with your fitting to make sure everything clears. I wish I had the skill to weld like this - It was all done with Copper/Silicon/Manganese rod by a local welding genius - It should hold up fine. Ah yes, I remember well my couple days of grinding to port that stocker - I must have taken off 4 pounds of iron, and still didn't get that hole from the front 4 cylinders looking good, And there's very little to do with those nasty bumps inside the runners without getting too thin. Note the room in the engine compartment for a bigger compressor! I will hook up with TimO tomorrow - probably won't be broken in enough to get too crazy...

The new engine with these capri (I hope that's not spelled "crappy") seals was started for the first time today - I'll be able to update tis topic in the next few days.

My new 3.0L , building for over a year, ran for the first time today! I had just enough time to break in the new cam before I had to shut it down to fulfill obligations to the wife. The motor sounds great, definitely different (more authoratative) from my last one (A rebuilt stock JY motor with a worked N42 and wrong cam) - Can't wait to see how it works. I've improved the head, cam, cubic inches, exhaust manifold, and lowered the compression with forged pistons for bigger boost capability. Tomorrow I'll tune - should be educational to see how much more fuel this one needs (indicative of increased flow requirements). The old motor put an estimated 360 hp to the ground based on 1/4 mile performance at 17psi, and I've never really exploited the capabilities of my turbo, a P-trim/ 60-1. There has been a lot of interest in my BAE manifold, so here are some pictures. This thing has huge runners and a log section that's easily twice the diameter of my ported stocker. I've welded on 2 T3 flanges to the existing Rayjay flange, added a pipe on the bottom for the external Racegate, and port matched the runners to my P90 head.

Couple shirts and a hat for me!

Aw... Just when I thought we were getting that twit Elaine really cranked up. What an idiot. OOPs, is that flaming?

Bifurcate This, Zcar.com.

I had to go post again... See your Venus, Raise you a Mars.

I can add to this in about a week, as my new engine (with these seals) is being installed next weekend. Sure hope I'm not putting out bad dope.

I'm in the process of putting Mustang wheels on my car- Looking at the 2003 + cobra variety that are slightly different from the Cobra Rs. The 10.5" rears with 285/40-17s (Looking for longer rear gearing via larger diameter) will require more flare than I've got, so I'll be doing rear flares in the near future - Looking at the Reaction Research 280YZ variety. I really hate bodywork, but I gotta.

I just had to go over there and post my opinion-

Fel Pro SS72686 - originally for a Ford Capri but are an upgrade for the L-heads. They're viton, fit perfectly, and have a lower profile in case you're installing a bigger cam.

Those look really nice on the car... The workmanship is so good that it's a shame to paint them. It would be nice to instrument and test, but sadly I have no connections to get strain gauges.

Yeah, what Drax said. Set it up correctly and use restraint on the boost control and it'll last as well as any other engine of comparable output. The emphasis is on the restraint. I had to learn that the hard way. Probably like many "Turbo Guys", the unique feel of a "dialed-in" turbo car makes the learning curve worth it for me.

I'm not really attached to the PIG designation either at this point either... But there does seem to be a proud "full figured" culture here. Suggestions?

With a programmable ECU you can have both, providing you can stay out of the boost. Careful calibration of the cruise regions of the fuel and ignition maps will not affect your WOT performance or partial throttle driveability. I managed almost 30mpg on a road trip cruising at 80mph, probably the only time I ever managed to go that long without getting into boost. But then I remember one tank of gas that was burned up tuning and squirting around town that returned me 9 MPG! My typical overall mileage in the 'Chop is around 14, which is probably an indication of how much I like to work the loud pedal . Dood, I have to agree with Quicker - burn the gas and have fun - It's worth the money, and why you built your Z in the first place.

All Hail the Champion! Still working on the P-I-G (Pork - Intensive - Gearheads) logo....

That's the spirit, John - leave that interior in and turn up the boost! Power to weight, Baby.

Oh yeah, I'd be flattered to be in any group that contains dot's fabulous V12Z. ZR8ED, it looks like the gauntlet has been thrown. You other fatties are making me feel inadequate!

Yeah, what Phantom said - What kind of ets do your little bulemic cars run, anyway? How bout this for a logo? I'm trying to come up with a clever name to go with the P-I-G acronym.

Smartass L-E-A-N guys - Those supermodels are nothing but skin and bones. No substance. We're talking full figures with nice skin and good personalities here. Phantom, I think I'll work up a flashy logo for P-I-G.

I'll be watching this, too -

In addition to the 77ZT, '78 280Z Daily Driver '89 4WD Pathfinder '87 XJ6 Jaguar (wife's car) and JTR Manual

Those are nice rods - I think your bases are covered.

Shot Peening has been a thing people have done to various parts such as rods and cranks to relieve surface stress in such a way as to prevent cracks from starting, making the part stronger. The process has been used by racers for many years, and also in the aviation industry - My Dad, an aviation mechanic since WWII, told me of reliability problems in a Franklin aircraft engine whereby the crankshaft would break - and was remedied by shot peening the non- journal areas of the crank, apparently a completely effective fix. This story was in response to the same question I put to him - "Is this a good/worthwhile thing to do?" As a result, every high - horsepower engine I've built has had the rods and crank shot peened. I believe it's good insurance. Cryo treating is advertised as another way to strengthen/stress relieve critical parts, and many engine builders are doing this instead. I even read about one builder doing his parts with both - I forgot which was done first. Shot peening is done by most automotive machine shops in my area...