speeder

I think I had solved the cooling problem with a different thermostat - but the interference problem made me give up on the electric pump for now. I had made another really stupid blunder with the pump control initially that I would rather not tell about now. Just let it suffice to say I was a primo dummass. Probably the only mistake I ever made. There were getting to be too many issues to deal with and I was anxious to get the new setup running. I did try to completely shield the mag pickup with no change. There is an upgraded pickup available from E-Motive that they claim "may" solve the problem. Like I said, I will eventually get back on this, but it's way down on the list right now.

Here it is, from my file labeled "Antique Turbo". Nostalgia item here - I heartily do not recommend the methods for boost control or fuel enrichment contained within. page1 page2 page3 page4 page5 page6 page7 page8 page9 page10 page11 page12

Clicky

I'm still on this.. I loaned my old laptop with the F9 maps to another Haltech tuner . I'll get it back this week and send the maps.

The foot (Right one, lol) is fine - and will be ready for SEZ. I do have some space inside , about 1-1 1/2" -but went the way I did so I could use the 26mm Mustang offsets/ cheap wheels. I'll just make the flares bigger when/If I want wider wheels. It's always bothered me that the driver's side rear flare is about 1/2" narrower than the other side due to poor manufacture. I noticed Scottie's IMSA Z flares had the same defect. The Kumhos with this wheel package give awesome handling performance - I probably won't need anything bigger. Pending verification of sufficient brake clearance, I will be ordering some Weld Pro-Star XP wheels for the rear/Drag Radials - 15X10, 6.5" backspace - to run 275/50 -15 DRs. I'll definitely have these in time for SEZ and some prior practice time at Orlando. I'm in for some photo opps - maybe the G/F is skillful enough to get pics that don't show the scratches and dings I've put on the car from careless wrenching, and all the chips in the paint from road debris.

I've discontinued work on the pump controller due to electrical interference from the CSR pump into my TEC2's Crank angle sensor. Some very odd things going on there that I didn't want to spend time now to figure out. Went back to a mechanical pump. I'll get back on this some day...

The 280Z BAE Turbo kit was my introduction to turbocharging in the late 70's. I still have the manual - give me time to dig it out and scan.

The old wheels were custom made for a flared, un-coilovered Z, leaving major space inboard (after the coilovers were installed) for bigger tires with different wheels. 245s were the widest tire that would fit under my flares on those wheels, and tire choices are really limited these days in 16" sizes. There was really no way for me to get the desired tire width/height with the available 16" tires. I'm slowly getting used to the new look - Definitely makes a change from the Old School styling- but really enjoying the performance of my tire selection.

I would like to use the 10.5/315s in the rear, and probably will when I redo the flares. I'm liking the Reaction Research 280YZs. The present ones are the MSA IMSA style (about 3" deep), and barely cover the 9"/285s. Thanks for the comments guys!

I got the adaptors here They have given no trouble, everything runs smooth and straight. They seem to be the answer for running the newer, shallow dish wheels on an S30. Evil, The wheels are "probably" for sale - If I can get a decent price for them - If not I will flare my '78 beater and put them on it. I'm kinda attached to the old HREs, but Porkchop is consuming money at a frightening rate. Then there's that promise I made to Z-Gad to give him first shot.....

I Like 'em! These are replica 2003 SVT wheels, 17X9, 26mm offset. Not Too heavy - 22 lbs apiece. I used 2 piece 4 to 5 lug adaptors that are 1.75" thick on my 4-lug Arizona Z-Car brake system , and the Mustang wheels' offset works well with the extra spacing. Tires are Kumho Ecsta MX, 285/40-17 on the back and 255/40-17 on the front. The change to my gearing made by going to a 27" tall tire is going to take some getting used to, but in a nice way. Makes the turbo pull strong!

Just wanted to follow up on this.... Finally the new motor is running with no smoking issues ( Had it going but the dam Total Seal rings were sent with defective 2nd rings causing it to smoke like a biatch - rebuilt with new rings and everything's fine.) - It wasn't totally obvious where the oil was coming from. I too can now recommend the Fel-Pro SS72686 seals for the L6 without reservations.

I had a set of 6 pistons that all looked just like that- It happened running 17-18 psi boost on a well-used turbo short block, no detonation. My theory is that worn out rings/ bores and increased cylinder pressure cause enough cylinder rocking to break the little tabs off. Susequently I used another stock bottom end rebuilt to specs with the same turbo setup/same boost and had no problems at all.

My old motor was an F54 stock bottom end with a lightly ported N42 and 2mm HKS head gasket. With a P-trim T3/60-1 it made 366 whp @ 17psi. I felt like it had more in it but moved on to a P90/stroker. I guess that means that I can recommend the F54/P90/2mm combo.

That's a pretty small intercooler - and you have to wonder about a guy that uses both a Haltech and a TEC2. Let the BS flag wave.

I have used a Racegate for 2 years without any problems.

I had a BAE turbo kit on my '280Z back in '78 - blew up my first set of pistons by cranking it up to 10psi. Damn, that gets me all teary - eyed sentimental to think about - My first turbo!

Took a drive today and everything is good - temp stays at 180. Mech pump and 180 stat did it. Very strange episode with that CSR pump....

Well, If the temp looked like it was going to stop at 200 or so, I think I wouldn't have been too excited, but it acted like it wanted to keep climbing. I have seen 220 and climbing before getting freaked out and shutting down. I'm reading temp with an autometer gauge in the stock T-stat housing. What really puzzles me was that it didn't start to cool down at highway speeds. That's a clue... Voltage at the pump was good, and when I checked for pumping direction I was amazed at the volume of water that thing moves! When it got hot I could feel no temperature differential between inlet and outlet sides of the radiator, yet for sure the pump and fans were running. I tried a 180* Nissan thermostat (big passage when open) with no help - Tried wiring the pump to come on with ignition - no difference. I don't have an oil temp gauge but wish I did. Oil Temp's my next thing to check if there's still a problem tomorrow. This morning I changed to the mechanical pump and only had time to let it warm up idling - temp stabilized at 180*. I didn't get a chance to test drive, but I'm cautiously optimistic. I probably would have stayed with the electric pump longer if there were no electrical interference issues - but it seemed like there were too many things to deal with at once.

I wish it could be the gauge - but its readings are backed up by the PC monitor program's readout of the coolant temp and by observations of the temps that things (pump, fans) are switched on.

I run an F9 on my daily beater, .040 over dished piston L28, big valve E31 head, 60 mm TB, 9:1 compression with the same cam as yours and 370CC injectors. I'll send you my calibration if you like... That's good advice about getting the wideband - get it, learn how to use it, save yourself a lot of pain.

James, I've lowered the pump "on" temp to 100* with no improvement. I've also put some small holes in the thermostat to enable some convective flow before the pump turns on. Pretty sure that there's no air in the system - I ran the pump with the front end jacked up until no more air bubbles appeared in the radiator - and I do have a recovery bottle. The pump is pushing water in the forward direction - I removed the top hose from the radiator, turned on the pump, and was amazed at the rate water was expelled. The block I'm using has been hot tanked. There has been some electrical interference being generated by the pump that is being picked up by my CAS - So far I've only seen this on a hot engine (above the pump on set point) with ignition on and the engine not running. Under this condition the injectors can be heard to fire. I can see very small (10 mv. p-p) pulses with an o'scope on the CAS signal with the engine not cranked, pump running, which are obviously enough to trigger the E-motive. With the engine running, this signal is about 4 volts p-p and very even/normal looking. I would assume that there's some kind of auto gain control in the E-motive? Car seems to run well once started, but now I wonder if this noise could be affecting the timing? I've put extra shielding on the CAS cable and tried several ground points for the shield with no joy. This is very weird as my three electric fans (some closer to the CAS than the water pump) generate no interference at all. Dang, the pump is such a trick piece, but it's got to come out! I'll do that tomorrow, as well as go to a 180 'stat. Hey, I dunno - been so long since the car's been right maybe the butt's out of cal.

Pretty sure the pump is running "Frontwards" but I'll double check. Going back to mech pump is a step I'll take fairly soon. I'm going to play with pump speed/flow control, too - Mike, I'm running fairly tight piston to wall clearances (.004) for forged pistons - they are TBC coated on the tops and teflon coated on skirts, running .004 piston to wall. This is a little tighter than Mfg. recommendations, but I have used these same Venolia pistons/ coatings / clearances before with good results. How hot is "a bit"? 30* or so? How long you reckon it'll take to wear in and cool down if that's the problem? Man this is frustrating - I'm itching to begin high boost tuning. Every indication is that this motor will be a real beast! Butt Dyno says that it has as much grunt at 7 psi as my old one had at 14.

My new 3.0 Turbo motor is driving me crazy with an overheat problem. First: F54 block (Cylinders Copper O-ringed) , P90 head, Factory Turbo Head gasket, massive AZCar Aluminum crossflow radiator, 160* thermostat, CSR Electric Water Pump. I have the water pump being turned on at 140* by my E-motive ECU, Electric fans turned on at 180* by a switch in the thermostat housing. The car overheats sitting at idle and driving around.. While warming up, I can see all events happen on the temp gauge at the correct temp: 1.Water pump comes on at 140, cools enough to turn off momentarily, then turns on and stays on. Temperature starts to climb. 2. Thermostat opens at 160, and temperature hangs there for a few seconds, then starts to climb. 3 Fans come on at 180, Temp goes down to 175 for a few seconds, then climbs to 200 - 210 or so. I then shut off the car to prevent damage. I've ensured that there is no air in the system by jacking up the front of the car, then running the electric pump until no more air bubbles appear in the radiator while filling. The Radiator is very clean inside. Just for good measure, I swapped the radiator witth the identical one from my daily driver. no change. There are no signs of head gasket leakage. Removing the thermostat made no change to operation. Radiator, thermostat, and fan setup was used on my old motor with good success, and all seem to be working well. The electric water pump is different from the old setup, but I know of several people who use this piece with good success. Wideband O2 says AFRs are about 13.8-14 during these times. I plan to double check timing but I saw 20* on the timing light at idle. I'm starting to think water flow problems - But... With the engine at 200* plus, shut off after running for a while, I can manually turn on the fans and pump, and watch the temp plummet on my mechanical temp gauge. Anyone have suggestions? I have about run out of ideas.

I also use Ferrea valves on my P90. - they are very high quality. I think just about any extreme duty valve will cost at least 20-25.00 each.