sticky280zx

This makes me sad...i have perfect shells with no rust on the bottoms for 1k and even upgraded but people go for the "local" one that they pay double for and have to weld the living crap out of....What am i doing wrong?

Heres their polished top mount (ofcourse our will be more of a ram/sidemount) ramhorn As you can all see this is quality and not some crap ssac stuff, its all tigged, made out of great quality metal (will get specs asap) and will last forever and cracking has never been an issue with any of their work. Pricing i expect to see around the 400-650 range but it will be quality (I really expect it to be at the lower end once we get a good number of people but our mani's are rather large) Just get a list going and let me know again please email me as my pms get full quickly. datsundriver88@hotmail.com thanks again -Jeff

Alright well i am reviving this thread.....I am going to try and pick up the ball where many have left off. This is from a local shop that i am sure would be more than happy to make these for us but heres some random pricing and i will have to firm things up but most of all we will have to all somewhat agree on atleast having all of the manifolds the same. If people interested would please put there name on the list and PLEASE email or pm me their phone number (makes sure people are actually serious). From my buddy...." Tax season is here guys and for most of us that means you'll be getting money that you'll be able to play with. we will be making an order for more flanges and pipes, so if interested in upgrading your setup we'll be having a sale on manifolds and manifold, downpipe, dumptube combos from now until April, 2010.... Group buys of 6 or more together no matter what manifold you're wanting will make for even better savings Prices as follows... *combo* ='s 3" downpipe and dumptube B&D series Mini-ram $450 *combo* $825 Ramhorn manifold (non a/c).... $550 *combo* $925 Ramhorn manifold (a/c comp.)...$750 *combo $1150 T3 or t4 flanged Topmount $875 *combo* $1350 ( devided manifold add $25) K-series Sidewinder manifold $925 *Combo* $1325 Polished manifolds Add $175 Due to mainly working with hondas call me about pricing for other makes and models." Now that you see pricing let me explain how good their quality is with a few pics of finished pieces. Also i am suggesting that we just do the headers now for a few reasons. 1. the pricing on dumps/dp's is high to me and everyone uses a different setup,and dont want to have to deal with that headache as well so again.. THIS IS FOR A HEADER ONLY! Lets get a list going so that i can get this done, i will provide them with a "stock" header so that they can cut off the flange and have blanks machined OR if anyone has a blank i would appreciate it and would buy it from you. Thanks -Jeff

/What he said, seriously i wouldnt let that slip, Id file a report as well if at all possible and take very good pics. Small claims court is cheap, and you can make them pay for it as well.

I seriously think this guy should be paid a visit. My dad bougt ALOT and i mean alot of interior parts from him when he was restoring/changin to black and just off the top of my head, most all plastci "like new" pieces were scratched badly and the steering wheel that was suppose to be "nice" was cracked all the way around like GOUGED, when asked he said "it is nice for a 30 year old part." If i lived ten minutes away id let him know what i thought either to his face or while he was sleeping.

Thats with vaccuum....you're suppose to unplug your advance and check it when its disconnected, and a GREAT engine builder on here says On 93 Premium the most you can hope for is 15-20at idle and 38-40 all in by 3k and just back it off if it pings. Remember this is with the vac adv DISconnected

ive got one...let me check on shipping but i will sell the tank for 100 + shipping

i got one or two pm me what you are wanting to get them for shipped (keep in mind shippint wont be cheap)

I know that many people use ebay and paypal often, as far as chargebacks go can some idiot go through their CC company and get a "chargeback" which would go through paypal since thats how they paid? They got the part and its exactly as described they just ASSumed that it came with other pieces when in fact it did not. Didnt ask any questions or for pictures and the ad was very simple/descriptive as to what was included.

Need more info on this stuff guys, stop hoarding all of your secrets and let us all know how to run some big advance numbers on stock motors =) you guys can keep the full race stuff. I second the sticky motion...along with the other thread that Braap has alot of info in on the same subject...maybe combine the two?

I have a 78 manual ecu if you still need one just let me know -Jeff

Youre brackets are wayyyyy too big if you hit the roof, post pics of your install and we might be able to point some things out (both inside and outside of the car).

Here are some options: 1. The group buy thread, maybe suggest another run. 2. Get specs from the group buy guy about making your own 3. Talk to the machine shop that made them and see if you can get a set (or even a few) and start your own group buy..up the price $5 and PROFIT (ie free clutches for yourself, and maybe some cash in your pocket) 4. Make a thread in the WANT TO BUY section. One of those will work out.

Check out my Early 260 with a MINT interior, rebuilt motor, etc in the for sale section...and shoot me an offer

looking good atleast youd get rid of those mustang wheels

This mustang 280 car thing needs lower....the front looks like its taking off when its sitting still

he needs my manifold....make that engine bay sooo much better (even though it is pretty clean) but this would make it even better http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=158563

Prime example of not taking notes... you have the cv's but youre missing the most important part (CLSD). The stock open r200 is crap if you are putting down any kind of serious power (if you really have 500+hp or 300+tq) all your car is doing is spinning. Like I PREVIOUSLY stated, get a CLUTCH type r200 (CLSD) and if it doesnt work ADD clutches. The clutches are cheap and with all the info and even write-ups with pictures, a Chimp could do it in a few hours (that takes out your "it cost more to install" excuse). But that is exactly what doesnt make sense, you want a cheap solution... yet when a clsd ($200), if you have to add clutches ($50), and taking a few hours to put them in (FREE). So for 250 your problem is fixed, and there are guys alot faster than your car is running this setup with great success (I believe high 7 and low 8 second passes have been done with an r200) so you should have no problem. But instead you say "guess i'll have to dig deep for the r230 swap" ...like I said before, there's no use. I've proven it otherwise as many on this site have and even suggested otherwise because of owning cars that had welded difs (DRIFT cars not street cars), theres even a guy who recently sent his car into a curb on here that did so because his dif was welded (that should say something to you). But all in all its your decision we are just here to add opinion and Try to help you out, doesn't make much sense to ask a question, get an answer (backed up by facts), then throw it aside....but do what you do and good luck fixing your problem. -Jeff

Not to mention 90mm is overkill for a non turbo and even to some overkill on turbo motors. Also the whole point of the spacer is to be able to retain stock linkage, so thats probably why he wants it, or you can go the cable route.

yea take a razor to the rubber and they come right out, I got an extra set

do some learning....i can explain it till im blue but it looks like you are wanting someone "to prove you wrong" and i am not here to argue, tires dont come with a rating i can light up a set of 315's with my mild L28 just like i can a 215's its call rpms and a clutch. (theres my mini arguement)

Thats crazy...i actually live on the south-west edge of plano, wellllllll i better get to looking at yahoo auctions then =) maybe i'll just buy them as i go and you can get a big trash bag and bring em over then lol... It will probably be that long till i get everything ready to go and the dang thing painted.

I know a man names mike here in dallas that runs 9's at the 1/4 track and hellaciously fast on the street. He rolls around on 15x8 konig rewinds with Micky ET's (think 245ish) and DEAD HOOKS...ofcourse he cant drive in the rain but i would say best bet is having 2sets of wheels/tires like most track guys if youre worried about driving in weather or tire wear. He also has a CLSD out of a 300zx with extra clutches added in....i wouldnt reccommend a welded dif when you can buy a clsd for a hundred or 2 hundred bucks (same price as ONE 315 tire).

verryyyy nice...moarrrr pics of the red car and mods please =)

a $100 used header is cheaper than a head/headwork....isnt it??