sticky280zx

@sweetride.....that really is a great color even if it is purple....nice flake to it....but please sit er down and tuck those big sexy wheels into the wells and is it me or does it look like the front flares are bigger than the rear???wieeerd

i want your 350....no really come bring it to texas and that 240 looks good....engine swap, suspension, wheels, fix the shifter with a short shifter (guy on ebay sells one for like 35bucks with bushings, i have it and works great with the inner rubber shift boot) and please tell me the wirings not as bad as it looks....but that is an......hmm odd spoiler on the back....wth is that thing?

i dont remember saying that they did ask for a dp....im just saying we're waiting on them...and whoever bought the manifold they are going to copy is going to get it really for 1/2 price since ssac is going to reimburse them....but im just hoping that they make a decent quality/price piece from the one we are sending them

i agree with what you say to an extent...theyre paying him 1/2 up front...and he is getting to keep the header....so i see it as he got it for 1/2 price and is just helping the rest of us out here. with that said i think we need to get an IN STONE price from ssac before any talk about "down payments" or anything like that...once we get a definate price then the ball can start to roll again but until then we're all really just twiddling our thumbs waiting on ssac. but i do like your idea of organized and whos really in and putting money up vs. 2382785 people saying "oh yea im in and ill get one......eventually....as soon as i get money...____insert excuse here" but we have to have a product, pictures, warranty info, and a price before any of that can take place IMHO and yes it makes no sense for them to make an investment and will potentially have the sources (size/runner length/etc) to make more and not do so...that would be a really stupid business move on thier part, but if we get a price cut (hybridz) for a group buy of 10-15-20 people(lets say $400) then if you want to order one before the next "batch" of group buyers are made (lets say they do every 10 and your number 14 but dont want to wait till 20) then you get X discount (percentage or cash) for being on hybrid z......then regular people who have no clue about the site can pay full price every time/any time....just a thought, again this all depends on ssac, and whoever is running things over here and what they come up with. (havent checked in about 6 pages as already stated but thanks to whoever has taken over of talking to ssac, whoever has gotten the ball rolling in the beginning/middle/now, and whoever put money out and arranged to get a custom header/design that will work and is shipping/ dealing with ssac so we might all have a product of decent quality, that we can possibly buy off the shelf vs. paying way to much to make or investing alot of time and money ourselves to make) thanks again -jeff

yea man....pm me the place that painted it for you....i need to repaint mine and that paint looks good....how much (if any) rust/dents and all that did they have to fix? cause for that much i can drive there from dallas and get mine done vs 3k+ out here for a goor paint job

yea im interested also....i havent commented in a good 6 pages or so lol....but glad to see it looks like yet again its moving on well.... as for ssac...ive seen a few manifolds, imho the welds looked good (hundai tiburon ) and like i said the welds looked good...but the pipes (individual into the collector) were still there....hence not so good on the blending/measurements...i'd rather them be flared in and welded accordingly, but like others have said, for only a couple hundred 250-350 (if i remember for his set) to start with they can be fixed by a decent shop in a couple hours at $60-90an hour for the labor/welding

it will if your nice too it....most trannys will hold alot but it all depends on how people drive them....just remember that and you tranny will last accordingly and 14 psi would only be about 250hp on stock turbo so itll handle that easily....now 14 on a gt35r would be more likee 350+ which then you might have some issues but there is always the z32 swap thats in the group buy forum

yea i was about to say 18 wheelers have a million of those little lights that they sell individually....in led and all shapes, sizes, and colors....but id actually rather delete them...along with the side trim & drip rails.....but thats just me... and my comment was more about why an rb vs an sr? but its kool...and looks like a great swap, get those dyno numbers

hah 5k for that? lil high im thinkin....but no way in hell hes running a 10sec 1/4....i mean he cant even get it tuned? wtf is up with that?

not feeling the side markers....and i have to jump on the i hate the younger stepbro (rb20)....seriously tho why rb20? i would figure rb25 or 26 would be very expensive hence not going with them...but theres alot more support for sr20? so why the choice

lol seriously tho....ive seen many guys build the same motor with different outcomes....again gsr block sleeves are good for 400whp with a good tune but with a bad one they crack...too many variables

yea im glad i cleared it up enough...yea im only aiming for about 300 wheels with the shot (100 or 125). Like i said if that doesnt make me happy ill just turbo it....and yes i know from other builds flattops arent the best (as dished would be for the quench) but with the numbers id be shooting for/ am shooting for in a turbo build i will use meth cause i dont/wouldnt trust 400hp+ on many cars without it. its really all about the tuning, there was a guy here in dallas running a B18 gsr (10-1 comp honda motor) with the dohc head. and a turbo putting down 460+ hp & tq without meth...but it was heaaaavily tuned. and only run for a short time as he sold the motor and shell separate and started a new project. im really less concerned with numbers but more concerned with having my ass planted back in my seat...and being able to whoop up on a broader range of cars. I will go all motor first and see if i like it then probably end up selling the setup to my dad who wants to go n/a then ill just do my turbo build....thanks for the help/suggestions guys and you can keep them coming. again anyone have any ideas/companies that make bigger valves, and hardened seats etc. like robello or sunbelt would use? (you scca guys would know im thinking) because im trying to do this build for under 1k for the head parts...(right now the best is that msa NEW cam kit) im not a fan of regrinds but thats just because ive been told by many new billet is alot better way to go. any opinions/ places with good experience

this is an l28 not a l24 and im pretty sure there are ppl out there with some ls1's with big cams that are injected that do just fine....and ill explain again since ppl are having issues reading....im pretty sure that robello makes 300 on alot of thier motors since they advertise it. i know i wont get that cause it wont be stroked hence why i wrote... "but im aiming for 300whp or so and think that i should be able to get above 200 with just the motor....shooting closer to 250" with 100 shot or so im aiming for 300+....obviously i could build a turbo motor but with a flat top set-up i would def have to go with a p-90 to try and keep the comp low enough (i dont like anything above 9-1 or 9-5-1 boosted) also if i dont like the n/a power....(pistons are forged, everything will be balanced, plan on shaving and porting the n42, and adding that big cam along with megasquirt...) and if i wasnt happy with the power i could swap the head for a p90 i have and thatll put the comp closer to around 9 to 9-5 and just change megasquirt settings, piece together a turbo,intercooler, and piping...injectors and pump and bam at 300+ for what 1500-2k and all id be out was the cam and misc stuff for 600 or less...not a bad trade imho? what do ya'll think

If you read my post it is more than a little. or atleast i consider it that way... It will get a port and polish, bigger valves, valve job, new guides, ive got a friend that is going to make me a set of ITBs, and will have a pretty aggressive cam with matching springs,retainers,lash pads, and rocker arms....so im thinking thats pretty extensive...im not looking to get every last drop out of the motor...just alot more than 150hp, which is probably where it is at now. along with the motorwork since ive got forged pistons ill probably put a shot on it, 50,75, or 100. I'll just have to decide that after i get the motor put back together, get megasquirt on, and everything tuned before i decide to hook up a bottle to it. but im aiming for 300whp or so and think that i should be able to get above 200 with just the motor....shooting closer to 250....i mean if the stroked guys can get 300 on carbs there should be no reason with proper tuning that i cant get close with injection.

BUMP...anybody out there want to help or what? ive searched and read and read some more but n/a builds mostly cover strokers and i could care less for those high prices...plus high comp should be just as good

haha i was jussst about to post this....so how many ppl have called on this lol

alright guys i wanted to know the set up on norms 11-6-1 motor....im going all motor...and i have a 78 with a fairly stock motor and everything runs great. i went to the 1/8 mile track and not being able to launch (even with a burnout on street tires) i pulled a 9.9 second pass at 72mph spinning a little off the line, my friend in a honda hatch (gsr motor) on slicks went 8.9 @76 and on street tires. from a dig on the streets of mexico were pretty damn even from till 80+. i was pretty happy, but i want an all motor setup and got some 40 over flat top FORGED pistons....and was wondering what cam would be best (im looking at msa's ofcouse cause theyre only $600 a kit (cam,lifters, springs,etc) and wondered what grind you guys find best...im kinda looking at the stage 3 or 4. and im going to have a slight port and polish done to my head along with bigger valves and hardened seats (machine shop is determining size) but what could i safely get to with premium (93oct) cause im wanting 11-1,and ill be on megasquirt standalone also. bottom end will be balanced and rods shot peened. im really only looking for around 10-5-1 or 10-1 and maybe a small shot since the pistons are forged....just worried about detonation....but what should i expect out of the set up and any ideas on where to find bigger valves?

really it just looks like they made it a little lower/bigger opening for an intercooler...and added a fog light hole...too many lights if you filled those in so it get a thumbs down from me...why mess with something that was good to go in the beginning?

ive got a 76 thats straight and pretty much rust free...if you look in the for sale...im asking 3k obo...and i could deliver for a small fee (gas there...and a bus ticket or plane ride back)

yea he told me he was thinking cheaper than mine...but do you have pics of this 240....ive got a friend looking for one (just pm them to me plz)

its been said many times the n42 cause of the dished pistons for lower comp ratio....me personally i like to have forged pistons and theyre worth it on a turbo motor....plus you can choose your bore/comp ratio which is very important on deciding how much you want to boost...lower the comp=more boost you can run (safely) the higher comp=less boost BUT BETTER OUT OF BOOST....just depends on what you want....but its also been said by many guys on here that are machinists and engine builders that the n42 is the best cause it has thick walls and can handle the boost and the bigger bores(.040 over for instance) and still put 20+pounds of boost to it

alright guys....i hate to bring up an old thread but was reading this one and ive looked....i wanted to know the set up on norms 11-6-1 motor....im going all motor...and i have a 78 with a fairly stock motor...i need to check timing but other than that everything runs great. i went to the 1/8 mile track and not being able to launch (even with a burnout on street tires) i pulled a 9.9 second pass at 72mph spinning a little off the line, my friend in a honda hatch (gsr motor) on slicks went 8.9 @76 and on street tires were pretty damn even from a dig till 80+. i was pretty happy, but i want an all motor setup and got a line on some 40 over flat top FORGED pistons....and was wondering what cam would be best (im looking at msa's ofcouse cause theyre only $600 a kit (cam,lifters, springs,etc) and wondered what grind you guys find best im looking at the stage 3 or 4. and im going to have a slight port and polish done to my head along with bigger valves and hardened seats (machine shop is determining size) but what could i safely get to with premium (93oct) cause im wanting 11-1 or higher, oh and ill be on megasquirt standalone also and ofcourse bottom end will be balanced and rods shot peened

they are the rgm rbs....they look effing amazing on the z but i think were gonna have some clearance issues with his kit on the front....also these on a coilover zx would be sexxx....hes got tokico 5ways all around, and eibach springs, and msa sways...good suspension but coilovers would tuck them more but you would definately have to roll then FYI cause theyre close on speedbumps which means going 60 on the highway or 40 on the street and hittin a bump is about the same...but all in all hes happy...ill be happy when i can actually get a damn color that i want....let me know when kim can actually offer that, without X number of ppl having to order it, and get them here in the 2 months instead of 5-6 and ill buy a set

pics of rears on my dads 280zx and a couple on the crappy z

its in pretty good shape....ofcourse needs some work but not alot of rust at all (94%rust free id say) inspected,registered, and drives great...fi motor, 4speed tranny, shifts smooth, newer clutch, silver (needs paint) and black interior..alllll there just needs a dash cap and ofcourse seats redone or changed out...doesnt leak anywhere...and id drive it just about anywhere...i have pics if you email me at jeffdahot1@hotmail.com or pm me here....im looking for 2500 or so (im in dallas)