dapiper

STI makes viton seals in stock size and config.

Just got the bad news after spending $1800 over past year on OEM reinstall, new compressor, evac and recharges. Now I know why PO removed all but evap. Prolly have to remove dash to remove evap, right?. Anyone tried this? How long did it take and what else is going to break? I have a dash cap. My Z is '77. Maybe I should move to a cooler climate. Turbo would run better too.

I use 4ms on my LS1 coils on 6 cyl. According to my PicoTech, they saturated at 8ms, but that would be too much current at higher RPM.

Thanks a lot. Now all I need is L24 9mm rods and custom forged pistons.

My stroker project just died since the metal head gasket is no longer available. Need spcl gskt for the 89 mm +3mm overbore. Alternatives?

My installer wants to replace, since installing new compressor. App is '77 280Z OEM install. Any source? Maybe we can just clean? Advise? Caveats?

Took to Midas and took just a little heat to free up. Piston ring seal on turbo end would not seat and bent; reused old one since had no wear, but less tension

Is HKS MLS head gskt still available? Where is best deal, preferably 1mm. Thanks

Thanks guys. Hate to spend $400 for rebuild, but cannot separate turbine housing. Thats 1/3 cost of GT35R. Never used to bother with balance on old Rajay rebuilds. Will a propane torch get hot enough?

Anyone have a source for the TO4 repair manual? I am rebuilding a 10 year old Turbonetics H3. I have progressed to the bearing housing internals. It was doing fine, but a little sloppy on radial end play. I have the rebuild kit. OBTW, can you rebuild with out separating bearing housing from turbine housing, since they are corroded together?

Late fall took my bud out for a ride at moderate boost 16 psig, made a few sustained 5-10 sec at full boost in high gear, nothing unusual or extreme. After exiting freeway did a run through the gears and then thar she blows with a plume of steam under the hood after stopping at light. Drove 2 mi home and observed coolant dripping out near rear of block on manif side. Lost half of coolant, but did not begin to overheat yet. Just pulled head and gasket was intact with o-ring pinch grooves in fire rings all preserved. Did notice some fiber loss on head side of gasket near galleys around all cyl, especially #5, and 6. Could have been erosion. There was a trench groove from one galley on #6 near the head bolt on the manif side to atmos. 50% Coolant was less than year old. Also upon cleaning head observed some pitting around the galleys outlined by the gasket punched holes, i.e wherever head surface was exposed to coolant. This pitting is noticably more extensive than I ever observed. Perhaps coolant became acidic due to exposure to combustion gases. I did observe what appeared to be slight foaming at the rad cap, but no loss of coolant. This over protacted period of several months. Also noticed variation of AFR during repeated runs to and from work, where it would run lean 0.7 AFR. Perhaps this was the steam offsetting the AFR. Using Innovate LM-1. Did notice steam in exh but only during warm up. #5 head cyl did clean up easier, perhaps due to steam cleaning. Will check pH of coolant. Although head surface pitted along plug side galleys, why did it blow back at #5 or 6? Could be where greatest coolant back press exists? I suspect the head gasket, the current OEM with graphite composite, since first time used. It appears to be flakey, literally. Can anyone supply the orig OEM asbestos laminate gasket? Think I can reuse this head or is it the pits, literally? Will this gasket benifit from coatings like Hi-Tack, Copper Coat or Hylomar? I can post pix if you tell me how. What say?

Fascinating. Can you measure turbine backpress? If it's excessive, it could contribute the afterburn scenario you observed.

Too much cam. I tried schneiders 270° and got 3-4" idle vac and nothing below 3500. Overlap was like 55°. then tried 10° less cam and got 9" idle vac and nothing below 3K RPM. Felt like days with my old '64 vet with mech linked secondaries; a deceiving steep accell with a big hole down low. This is not the fast way. You want a broad torque curve. I went on the dyno with both cams and the power was down 13-17 with much narrower torque curve. My old Racer Brown cam has 20° overlap and power peaks at 6200 RPM has 14" vac at 750 RPM I think my vac is so low because I have unshrouded the valves too much for street use; took out 3.5cc. CR is 8:1

Now that's the way you do it Mayolives, trash the whole rad support. More pix please.

I bought an '78 system from a bone yard in TN last fall and had it converted to R134a. My Z had evap and controls from PO who removed system for performance. It cooled to 40F but leaked and the belt kept squeaking. I kept tightening until finally bought shorter belt. I have a BHJ harm bal with 6" X 5/8" pulley. I must have refilled it 3 times in a year and just last month during a real hot spell, the compressor siezed. Datsun has different compressor and pulley every 6 mo of model year. Mine is boat anchor Hitachi with 8" pulley. Now I will have to purge entire system and repl dryer and maybe other stuff. I have $700 installation and $130 in evap and recharges, another $40 in freon and just keep depleting the ozone layer as well as my wallet. Thank God its getting cooler now. If I can get a cheap R12 compressor, like off old 280 I will try R12. But if it continues to leak, prolly should leave as R134a, since cheaper. Alternative is new, more efficient 134a Sanden compr ($200). Cannot seem to get A/C mechanic to search for leak. Another guy wants to replace everything for $$$. If leak is in evap, will give up.

Mine is 16 row Earls like helix's only mounted behind I/C.

Used for EFI and DIS with LS1 coils/igniters on turbo L28.

Make sure your downpipe is SS so you can wrap it.

My OEM A/C R134a conversion on my '77 280Z just "dun bload up". Any one tried a new rotary style compressor retrofit? Hate to replace compressor only to blow up again and would like to replace with more efficient one designed for R134a. I may need to design new bracket.

My OEM A/C R134a conversion on my '77 280Z just dun bload up. Any one tried a new rotary style compressor retrofit? Hate to replace compressor only to blow up again and would like to replace with more efficient one designed for R134a. I may need to design new bracket.

Search for thread on Cometic. They are not interested.

Mix seems to be going leaner, especially when hot during drive home. Observed infrequent over cooling (165F), like maybe 180F thermostat stuck. Pulled rad cap and noticed some foaming, which decreased slightly when topped off. Took about a pint cold. Suspect gasket blown into water galley. Seems to run OK. Will do leakdown and check for bubbles in coolant.

Thanks guys, guess I should have specified; using '77 OEM from Roger at ZBarn in TN. Guess the compr is fixed, but that doesn't explain why stock belt too short. Found one 1/2" longer at 37.5" will try that.

Gimme dat too

You can get M18X1.5 to AN adaptors from Earl's and Mocal, also M12X1.5 for outlet. Speedway has the banjo fitting to AN fittings if you need the check valve head, which helps with priming, avoiding drainback.