rossman

I've been working on the Z while I'm off for the holidays. Work focuses on wiring but also tying up some loose ends like torquing down the turbo housing bolts. Gonna have to make a run to Harbor Freight (HF) to get a stubby 13mm wrench to reach some of the inner bolts. Speaking of HF, I purchased some of their "Professional" socket wrenches. Definitely higher quality than "cheap" Craftsman wrenches and at half the price. I read that Sears is closing 100+ stores early next year. Gee, I wonder why? Mounting panel for the Wolf ECU, J&S Interceptor and Aeromotive Pump Speed Controller. The panel is made from an aluminum street sign that was laying in a field for several months before I decided to recycle it. All boxes are mounted with industrial strength Velcro. Panel and electronics installed in the glove box. Mucho wiring not shown The wires will have enough slack so that the panel can be pulled out for access to the electronics and associated connectors. Here is a shot of the power supply panel installed. I need to trim it to fit better...on second thought, I have some left over signage Not yet sure what to do with those other components hanging from their wires. What the heck are they anyway? A couple of turbo money shots

Thanks for the info Tony. That explains why I never had any problems without one.

Plug the fuel line going to the cold start valve to check if that is the problem. Use starter fluid if it won't start without the valve.

After reading your post again now that I'm awake , it seems like something more than just a dirty temp sensor. I believe that it's more of a gross fueling problem since all plugs are wet and I doubt that all injectors would fail mechanically open at the same time. Assuming the car is stock, I can think of a few things that could cause this problem. 1) Dirty engine temp sensor connectors as mentioned above. 2) Loose AFM spring tension. A super loose spring will cause it to run rich. 4) Stuck open or sticking AFM flapper. 3) Malfunctioning FPR. This would only cause the problem at idle. Also, you mentioned "catch can," does the car have a properly functioning PCV system? Tell us more about the car. Is it stock or has it been modified?

Make sure your engine temperature sensor connectors are clean and free of corrosion. There are two connections, one at the sensor and a bullet connector further up the harness. If they are dirty your car will run rich.

Thanks!

The terminal blocks are made by Fastronix. I got them from Racer Parts Wholesale. The fuse block came from Del City or Waytek, I can't remember which one. Hope that helps.

I got the fuel lines from an industrial supply store in my area. It's 316L seamless tube. I'm not sure what you mean about two types of AN fittings. There are different types of hose ends depending on the type of braided hose. I used Earls Pro-Lite. It uses the same hose ends as standard stainless braided hose. I used a mix of Earls, XRP and Aeromotive fittings. Earls and Aeromotive black fittings are hard anodized, XRP are painted black. XRP and Aeromotive fittings are higher flowing with larger IDs and smoother internal transitions. I was very surprised when I discovered that Earls -10 fitting IDs are < .50". XRP and Aeromotive are both > .50" ID.

I almost forgot about my power supply. All EMS related power and.ground will pass thru this board. The board is made from a plastic cutting board. It slides into the right side of the passenger side foot well. I will cover it or design a a nicer enclosure in the future but it will due for now.

I started wiring up the FI this weekend.Here is my first wiring harness...ever. It is 100% crimped using barrel connectors. I spliced the injector connectors parallel to the main power wire. The black connector pigtail is crimped onto the continuous main power wire.

You should be thinking turbo or V8 swap...

http://www.rceng.com/Injector-Wire-Clip-Type-C-P49C9.aspx

Gollum and others are being nice and spoon feeding you information. EVERY question you have asked has been discussed multiple times on this board. You wouldn't need to post your questions if you would have searched enough. There are injector sizing calculators on RC Engineering's website. Go there to figure out your injector sizing. That's what I did.

The clips on the newer Volvo/BMW connectors are designed such that they can be removed by pressing the wire with your finger then pulling the connector off. The old style connectors require a tool to pull back the wire. I prefer the newer style since they are much easier to remove. It'll be interesting if you can find connectors with a rubber boots. I pulled those from cars in the JY and swapped them onto new connectors.

Post #23 in this thread

Good gawd man did you not just read what is posted above?

Double post

The MSA fuse box is a very nice piece of hardware. Should work well with a rewired system. Be careful with cheap wire. Some of them are not the proper gauge. Look for wire that actually says AWG or J1128 on the package. If you are going through all the trouble to rewire the car then why not use the good stuff?

Upload a picture of the one you have in the parts wanted section. They all had the same interface to the crank but the hub and pulleys varied from year to year depending on accessories. I have a couple that I'll let go for cheap.

Clearance Clarence

Looks great! Works for me.

McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-grommet-bushings/=f3fcoq

Pictures of the fuel system as promised. Need to flip that filter around...

Very nice!

Also considered that Rebello has been building race proven L6s for many years. He will build a complete package with portred head and a matching custom ground cam based on your requirements. Will your Swiss builder do the same thing?