rossman

Thanks, I like it better too. The engine mounts are from McKinney Motorsports. The red cylindrical cartridge on the firewall is an Aeromotive fuel filter. Speaking of fuel, I'm pretty much finished with the fuel system. All I'm lacking are some 1/4 inch fasteners for the pump mount. I'll try to escape the house this afternoon and pick up the fasteners. Pictures coming soon. Thanks for tuning in

Sounds clogged to me. You should pull the tank and clean it out. Blow the fuel lines out with compressed air again while the tank is out. Install a known good fuel filter. It could also be that your vent lines are plugged or routed improperly. If you can get it to start again, with all the fuel vent lines attached, pull the gas cap and see if that prevents it from dying. If it does then you know the problem is a fuel line vent.

This thread reminded me that I actually have a Sears aftermarket speed control system, brand new in the box circa 1978. My dad gave it to me back in 1988 when I got my first s30. It's been sitting in the garage ever since.

I bet your fuel injectors are clogged. Take them off and clean them. Blow out the fuel rail with compressed air.

I would be helpful if YOU provided pictures of the A/C components you want to remove. Identify the parts in the pictures (circle them in a photo editor) and I think you will get more help.

Yep, you are right...I was looking at the wrong diagram in the FSM. I'm just missing the gasket, which I ordered from Courtesy Nissan a few days ago.

nevermind

I would say that you need to size the tank fittings to the tube size. Tube size should be determined by engine power and pump requirements. I'm my case the pump I chose drove the tube sizing. I'm using an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump that requires 1/2" ID fuel line so I used 5/8" tube, -10 fittings and 1/2" NPT tank fittings on the feed side. That will be more than enough for my power range.

Oh, and -6 AN is approximately the same ID as 3/8 tube.

For a street car, AN fittings are not necessary.

8.5:1 static compression is what Dave recommended for my steet engine...BUT he spec'd out a cam with considerably later intake valve closing time than the stock turbo cam. You have to consider dynamic compression (intake valve closing relative to piston BDC). I bet you would get good results with 8.5:1 with a stock N/A "A" cam.

Funny thing happened this morning. I was looking thru the FSM trying to figure out how to properly clock my ZXT dizzy and I ran across a picture showing the front pulley removal. Guess what tool is shown removing the pulley? Yeah, that's right... If I would have originally RTFM (20 years ago) it would have saved me a bunch of headache...go figure

I've used a steering wheel puller the last couple of times after I broke a pulley with a standard gear puller once. Find a couple of long bolt the same size as the theaded holes on the side of the pulley hub. Feed them thru the puller slots and screw them into the holes. You can use the big center bolt to push on. Screw it in and back it out few turns so the pulley can slip. Once it breaks free you can tap it off with a mallet and block of wood.

Notice anything different? I couldnt stand it with the piping over the engine. The pipe behind the fan is close but I secured it well to the block.

Agreed, but I would add that the the sway bar loading combined with compression in the LCA caused it to fail.

It looks like it was designed by someone who doesn't understand the loads passing thru the components. The TC components look exceptionally weak.

Hey, hey, I resemble that comment

He's looking to spend a bunch of money to get a little performance

I was talking about combining a true CV joint (Rzeppa or tripod) with a single cardan joint. Double cardan joint shafts typically come with three cardan joints.

I'm not sure what your goals are but I think a GT42 is too much for a daily driver L6. A .63 A/R GT35 seemed to work well for BigPhil and it's what I'm doing. Hopefully I'll have mine running in a few months and I can report back. Of course, I've been saying that I'll have it running in a few months for over a year now.

How about spending hours figuring out and bending custom three dimensional bends in expensive 5/8" stainless fuel line, getting it bent perfect, then just after you finish the last flare you realize that you forgot to put the tube nut on one end.

Sorry but I don't think there are any conclusions that can be drawn from this thread (at least not yet). I agree it's a great discussion but I'll remain skeptical until I see real test data. Test data that is not performed by an organization that is also selling or promoting the product they are testing. I still contend that the discussion here should focus on elastic (non-permanent) deformation of the structural material. Discussion or data on crushing, buckling or yielding structures does not apply.

Yes, you can just cut off the connectors and crimp them together or find a brass bolt and nut and bolt the two connectors together. Make sure you insulate it well and restrain it so it doesn't chafe and short out. It's also important to reduce the load. The full current of the headlights passes thru this wire and the combo switch on the steering column. There are instructions here and on classiczcars.com on how to install two relays for the headlights. If you are not comforatble modifying the wiring harness, you can purchase a plug-n-play relay harness from MSA. The same guy who produces the harness for MSA wrote the how-to on classiczcars.com

While you're in there you might want to consider ditching the ammeter and adding a couple headlight relays to take load off the 10ga WR wire.

I'm with lowdown. Why? Why go thru all money, time and effort for a setup that *might* get you marginally better performance than a modified stock S30 suspension? I *only* had urethane suspension bushings, Tokico Illumina struts and Eibach springs on my 280z. The car handled like it was on rails yet it was compliant enough to drive across Houston every day for several years.