rossman

This has been discussed over and over on this forum. You're just not using the right search terms. Take a look at the Datsun/Nissan L-series Cylinder Head Timline page. There is a good chance the cam and valve train is toast too if the engine was run low on oil. Pull the valve cover and inspect. I bet you will find scoring on the cam Get a stock piston/head combination if you are planning to reuse the stock FI. IMO, higher compression requires better engine management. Good luck.

Yes. Really. It's all been discussed over and over. No need to repeat it here again.

I'm surprised that nothing came up in a search because this very subject has been discussed a gazillion times. "Budget build" means different things to different people. Do you have a number in mind? Stick with the stock exhaust manifold unless you are looking for 500+ hp, Megasquirt is the most budget friendly engine management. EDIS for distributorless ignition.

I am hoping to start her up in a couple of weeks. Anytime you can make it out would be awesome. My welder isn't exactly high end. I have a barely used Century 120 MIG. It was free. It works. We'll see how well. For consumables a full bottle of trigas and reel of .035 dia 308 stainless wire. Let me know when is a good time for you and we'll set it up.

I took the day off today and guess what I've been working on...wiring, STILL working on wiring. I'm kinda figuring it out as I go along so it's taking a LOT longer than expected. Doesn't it always? I'm finding poorly crimped and soldered wires in various locations. The fusible link to the alternator was gone. The PO installed in it's place a cold soldered connection to 10 gauge wire I'm surprised the car never went up in smoke. I wired in Maxi-fuses where the fusible links were supposed to be located and added one for the FI. All of the ground terminals to structure were screwed on top of paint. To those who don't know, screw threads do not make a proper ground connection. A proper ground connection involves removing the surface coating down to clean metal around the screw hole, applying dielectric grease to the exposed metal and clamping the terminal down tight. Dielectric grease is non-conductive but it will displace under clamping load, allowing metal to metal contact while still surrounding the joint with a moisture resistant seal. I always check the resistance across the joint to verify the ground is good. Added 150 amp Blue Sea power and ground bus bars that connect directly to the battery. Additional ground wires were added to the rear ground, engine block, head, alternator, EFI, etc, in a "star" fashion. Connected Dave's (Zs-ondabrain) headlight relay kit, 240z alternator upgrade plug (incorporates a diode) and parking light relay. Installed a CS144 alternator. Removed the ammeter and replaced it with a later model voltmeter. I chose to replace the whole gauge. I like the old 240 lettering better but whatever. Here is a picture of how I rewired the gauge. The VM uses the existing power and ground from the fuel meter side of the gauge. I believe this is acceptable. If not, please let me know . I ran a new wire from the W/B wire out of the voltage regulator connector (that now has a diode in series) to the voltmeter lamp then back to the CS144 "L" wire. I also soldered in a 470 ohm resistor in parallel with the lamp so that the alternator will still work if the lamp burns out. I learned most of what i know about this mod from rejracer's 240z Charging system upgrade thread, KTM's AC Delco/GM Alternator Swap Part 2 - CS144 Installation thread and the links in this thread. On the mechanical side, I purchased some 3" and 1.5" 304 stainless mandrel bent pipe. At a minimum I need to get a screamer pipe tacked on to the wastegate outlet before the first start. Anybody what to come help me learn how to weld? I'll pay you in beer Speaking of welding...a set Baddog frame rails should be arriving tomorrow. I'll install them at some later date after I get the car moving under its own power...

Late L24 rod bolts are 9mm, earlier ones are 8mm. You need to measure them to figure out which ones you have.

I'm looking for a picture of RunCool hood louvers on an S30. These seem like a good alternative to the 77/78 plastic vents. I also like the more functional look of these over the ones offered by MSA.

Initially I was going to do the same as you but ditched the idea due to the very same issue. Some ideas that I considered were epoxy bonding an Adel clamp to the tank bottom and clamping a tab under one or both of the straps. I also didn't like the idea of the tube (or hose in your case) being exposed so much to rocks and debris. That is why I ended up going around the tank.

Where is your sump located on the tank? Similar as mine above? You plan to run your line straight under the tank utilizing 180* hose ends?

...when you feel that hesitation on a left turn you know it's time to fill 'er up. ...when you got beer can rings on the cowl ...when you got that mysterious bump on the hood just over the radiator support ...when feel the front of your car lift up at 70 mph

Better? Not really. I'm just not willing to accept as much risk I'm paranoid that I'm going to have leaks since this was my first time bending/flaring stainless fuel line and working with AN fittings and hose ends.

Thanks for the input Tony. That's what I will do.

I have a 240sx TB W/TPS that I'll let go real cheep. Let me know.

You know you own a Datsun when your girlfriend says "You love your car more than you love me" and you think about it for a second and reply "So what's your point?"

I'm getting close to my first start up with my new fuel system. It has never had fuel in it. I'm planning to pressure test the system with compressed air prior to adding fuel. Here is what I plan to do. 1) Remove the NPT fittings from the tank 2) Cap the return line 3) Add an adapter fitting for my air compressor to the feed line 4) Attach the compressor to the feed line adapter 5) Verify that the compressor regulator is turned all the way out (no pressure on the outlet) 6) Turn on the compressor and let the tank pressure build until it shuts off 7) Slowly turn the regulator knob until fuel line pressure gets to 60 PSI at the fuel rail gauge 8) Check for air leaks 9) Depressurize the system by opening the air compressor regulator knob 10) Disassemble the test setup 11) Reconnect the NPT adapters to the tank Does this sound reasonable? Suggestions welcome. Cheers, Ross

You should be more specific about your budget and power goals. That will help us help you decide on a path for your build. A high powered stroker L6 isn't going to be budget friendly. You didn't mention EFI or Turbo so I assume that is out of the question.

+1 for PowerFab. They do good work. They are not a machine shop though. I've been told that West Houston Machine does good work. You might want to ask on the Houston-Nissans forum

Are you sure it's oil and not water mixed with black soot? It's common to have condensation ejected from the exhaust on start-up. If you have a bunch of soot in your exhaust the water will be colored black.

Have you verified your timing? Advanced timing will cause high idle.

I'm with NewZed. You probably have a air leak. Search for the leak by spraying around the intake manifold with starter fluid or carb cleaner. When the fluid gets sucked into the engine the idle will increase and you found your leak. Have you checked that your throttle plate is completely seated and not cocked/loose for some reason? Did this condition just start one day or did you recently replace something, perform a fresh rebuild or what? A little background helps diagnosis.

Yeah, that doesn't look right. Have you tried tapping it in to the end of the CV housing? It's only supposed to have a slight interference fit. You could just run without it. Just put extra grease in the mating adapter cup and seal the flanges with silicon. Other guys did exactly that to get more clearance for the stock Z31 shafts.

The front to rear sub frame connectors look like simply bent flat stock. Seems like it would be very flexible compared to the Baddog connectors. I'm not sure those bolt-on "X" members would do much more than just add weight.

lowrider, drodz - Thanks! I appreciate the compliments. garvice - Thanks for the info. I've been digging through the FSM and have not found an direct reference to those components. However, figure BE-2 calls out the connector going to the rectangular component as "Acc relay" and the wire colors going into it match the wiring diagram. The flasher wire colors match the wiring diagram for the *hazard* flasher. So, mystery solved. I've been upgrading the charging system the last couple of days. I found that the NEW Duralast (AutoZone) "premium" cables that I intended to use for the starter wires were corroded underneath the jacket. Time to order new high quality cable from Del City...

Thanks for making the video. I'm in the process of installing Weather Pack connectors on my custom fuel injection and ignition harness. I have not done it before so I was a little apprehensive. This video helps immensely! Cheers, Ross

Don't sell it! You will regret it later. It is a really cool car. You don't have to pull the engine to fix the front cover and rear seal leaks. Let me know and I will help you fix it. You will need to purchase a few gaskets but we are talking about <$100 and a day or two of labor.