rossman

First year model GM product....You're gonna need it! The reviews look good I just hope they hold up. I'll be keeping my eye on this one.

Apply a small amount of grease on the ID of the filler neck and OD of the tank nipple. Hang the tank from straps loosely, just before the tank and the filler neck are engaged. Put a floor jack underneath the tank with a wide piece of wood to spread the load. Jack up the tank while holding and twisting/wiggling the rubber filler. Be careful you can crack the filler neck if you put too much load on it, especially if it's hardened.

Here is a nice one on CL Houston: http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2879102949.html "Considering Offers"

Good one!

The gear reduction starters weigh less than the stock S30 ones.

I'm not sure of the tread pitch, my GUESS is M8 x 1.25 but you better stick a thread gauge on it to verify.

Josh - To avoid confusion, your diagram should show the top and bottom sections of the engine connected. Also it's worth emphasizing that that schematic is for an naturally aspirated carbureted engine. NA FI S30s have the crankcase hose attached after the throttle plate and the valve cover hose attached before the throttle plate. Turbos have a different setup or else the crankcase WILL get pressurized or the intake will suck in unmetered air (assuming stock AFM is used). I'm not sure of the stock L28ET PCV plumbing. I removed the PCV system from my car. I have both the valve cover and crankcase vents hooked to a catch can mounted in the engine bay. R0N - You could try removing the crankcase hose, installing a filter on it, remove the PCV valve and plug the intake hole. If oil stops spraying out the seal then you found your problem.

No doubt. Those spur gears will put out some serious whining noise. I bet it sounds sweet!

You need all metal self-locking nuts. These nuts are very nice and compact. The are reduced hex allowing the use of a smaller tool thus making installation easier.

When you say "breather filter," do you mean an aftermarket filter attached to the valve cover breather? If you have that and a PCV valve hooked to the crankcase then you are pulling unmetered air into the intake at idle. If you have an NA to turbo conversion with the NA stock hose from the intake to the valve cover then you are definitely pressurizing the crankcase during boost.

Agree with calvin. It sounds like is excessive pressure in the crankcase. Check that your PCV valve and hoses are connected properly and working. How many miles on the piston rings? Could be excessive blow-by.

Admittedly I am very conservative about this but I assume the FSM torques are for dry bolts. Anytime a lubricant is added to the threads then the torque should be lowered. Dry torque assumes a higher friction coefficient. If you torque a lubricated bolt to a dry torque spec then you risk over torquing the bolt.

It lubricates the threads during torquing, which is a good thing assuming you adjust the torque to compensate.

Read the post carefully. They heated the flywheel, not the bolts...on purpose. Obviously the bolts will also get hot and expand due to conduction but at a somewhat slower rate. It seems to me that if you want to relieve tension in the bolts "with heat" that you would heat them directly not by heating the flywheel and thus the bolts indirectly. Anyway, I think the consensus is that Locktite should be used on all the bolts.

I don't see how heating the flywheel would relieve tension on the bolts. Heating the flywheel will cause it to expand in all directions thus increasing tension on the bolts. Heating up the flywheel caused it to move due to thermal expansion and break the corrosion layer between the parts thus reducing the torque required to remove the bolts. Try an impact wrench next time. It will remove the bolts in a matter of seconds. Locktite is a much better secondary locking feature than the pressure plate lock washers and nothing in the case of the flywheel bolts.

Locktite blue on the PP to flywheel bolts and red on the flywheel to crank bolts. Please explain...

Purchase a set from Courtesy Nissan.

Are you sure you haven't fried your coil with the bypassed ballast resistor?

Since the threads are trashed already I'd hit it with a 12" or larger pipe wrench. A pipe wrench will bite down on it much harder than you could ever squeeze it with channel locks.

Look here under Trigger

Nice write-up. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I want to mention the axle configuration here since I just spent the last hour searching to verify which differential input axle goes on which side. Maybe it will save somebody some time in the future. Drivers Side: short shaft + short diff input shaft Passenger Side: long shaft + long diff input shaft

The fuel system is finally sorted out (fingers crossed). I still have a few things to do before the first start. I attempted to weld up a wastegate dump tube but failed miserably, nothing but cold welds. Even with the heat turned all the way up it wouldn't penetrate .060 thick tube wall. My guess is that the 10 year old Century 130 I'm using is crap. It's time to upgrade. I've been scanning Craigslist for a reasonably priced used Lincoln or Miller. In the mean time I'm going to have it welded. That will allow me to at least start the engine and possibly drive it to a muffler shop. Other items include the fuel evaporator tank, clutch master and slave cylinder, speedo cable and half shafts. The evap tank needs a larger vent fitting welded to it and other smaller nipples sealed up. I found a radiator shop to do that work. The master and slave cylinders are installed by need to be bled. The McKinney transmission mount is blocking access to the speedo gear mount. I'll have to cut the mount or maybe just loosen it to get the gear in there. Lastly are the half shafts. I received a set of the shortened shafts from Jon Mortensen's group buy. These things are very stout. The axles will explode before the shafts break. I'm off tomorrow. I'll take some pictures as I go.

I wouldn't call it peppy but I love my Honda Fit Sport. It works perfect for my short work commute. You'd be amazed at how much room it has with the seats down. I picked it up used with ~10K miles for $13K. Don't break the bank buying new, be a bottom feeder like me let the suckers pay the new car depreciation!

Yeah, I may be chasing my tail at this point!

What I've been referring to as my "fuel system" consists of the following components: Fuel tank with sump at the rear 3/4 NPT to -10 AN 90 degree fitting 5/8" 316 stainless tube to the front of the tank -10 male union Earls -10 ProLite hose with straight -10 swivel seal fittings -10 AN male to -10 ORB fitting Aeromotive fuel filter (100 micron) -10 AN union with 0-rings on each end Aeromotive A1000 Fuel pump -10 ORB to -10 AN male fitting 5/8" stainless tube 180 degree bend -10 male union Earls -10 ProLite Hose with straight -10 swivel seal fittings -10 male union 5/8" stainless tube up the transmission tunnel to the firewall behind the valve cover -10 AN male to -10 ORB fitting Aeromotive 40 micron filter -10 AN male to -10 ORB fitting Earls -10 ProLite hose with one straight -10 swivel seal fitting and one -10 90 degree swivel seal fitting -10 to 1/2" NPT fitting Pallnet -10 Fuel rail with o-ring'd injectors -10 to 1/2: NPT fitting 5/8" stainless tube around the front of the valve cover -10 male union Earls -10 ProLite hose with -10 AN male to -10 ORB fitting Aeromotive A1000 FPR -6 ORB to -8 AN male fitting 1/2" 316 stainless tube all the way back to the front of the fuel tank -8 male union Earls -8 ProLite hose with straight -8 swivel seal fittings -8 to -10 AN male union 5/8" 316 stainless tube from the from the front to the back fuel tank 3/4 NPT to -10 AN 90 degree fitting Fuel tank sump There is about 36" of ProLite hose in the system. I've been pressure testing everything but the fuel tank. I used Locktite PST on the threads to the fuel rail, fuel pressure gauge & fuel tank. PTFE tape was used on the temporary test fittings (gauge and valve fittings). There are several fittings to get from 3/4 NPT at the tank fitting to 1/4 NPT at the gauge...all potential leak/permeation sources.