rossman

Your engine bay looks really clean! Is that a custom catch can?

That should spool up quick. I'm sure you will be happy with it. They're currently $280. I don't find that price shocking at all. If I was to model that and get it fabricated by our in-house shop, it'd be at least 3x that price. You must have got a smokin' deal! I'm still running a clutch fan and shroud. It pulls a LOT of air. Just be sure to seal up leak paths around the fan, shroud, and radiator.

From my calcs, the g30-660 is a good choice for my engine (3.0L with mild head porting and custom cam). The GT3576 that I have now is too big. It spools fairly quick with the .62 A/R turbine but sacrifices top end power due to turbine restriction.

Looks great! Look forward to seeing it installed. Want to know what's worse than not having a TIG? Having a TIG and still not welding worth a crap! All work and no play make Ross a crappy welder...lol!

Thanks for he feedback, @lowrider! t's good to know! I just happened to search ebay and found a P90a for sale and bought it. The price seemed high but like others have experienced here, they are becoming difficult to find. Fingers crossed that it's not warped. It will need solid lifters too.

We plan to run it with the liners. Given the lack of solid evidence, except the one noted in the linked posts above, I think the risk of one of the liners breaking up and trashing the turbo is low.

Agreed, but I have to admit that I may be a little biased. My son's 1981 280zx that we are planning to turbo has only 89K on the engine and appears to be in very good shape.

Have you personally experienced it or know somebody who has? There is a lot of talk of this happening but I'm unsure if it is common or more internet myth than anything else. I think this and this are good discussions on the subject. The only people in the threads, who I trust for good, sage advice are John Coffey (RIP) and BRAAP. Both were admins and general zcar gurus on HZ for many years.

If you install a thicker head gasket then you will change the cam timing. My preferred way of dealing with that is to also install an adjustable cam timing gear, then property timing the cam, which you should do regardless. Agreed with Madkaw and NewZed. How about simply running what you have now, then adapt if you want more later? I run 8.5:1 static cr on 20 lbs of boost but it's a heavily modified engine, lightly ported head, and custom cam, all done by Rebello. Regarding exhaust port liners, you should be aware that there is a risk of trashing your turbo that if a liner breaks and releases FOD into your turbo. There are people who ran them with no issues and some that had problems. It's a bit of a gamble. The liners can be removed but it's a lot of work. There are a couple of YouTube videos on the subject.

Nice! Gotta love the shiny bits! Which gearbox is that?

Good to hear you are still working on it! I hear ya bout motivation, that brand new z32 gear box I bought a year or so ago is still sitting on the garage floor.

Well, nobody besides us looking at your thread is going to see it once you cover it up! I am planning to do as you buddy suggested - replace mine with a plastic or aluminum chimney but bonding it to the sheet metal instead of bolting it. I also live in a wet climate but since mine is a nice day weekend cruiser, it rarely sees any rain anyway.

https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/media/downloads/catalogs/catalog_2010.pdf

I work at an aerospace company who designs aluminum structures on a regular basis. I can tell you that welding aluminum 6061-T6 will weaken the aluminum in the heat affected zone. We assume an 80% reduction in material strength at the weld and the HAZ directly around it. It becomes, essentially annealed aluminum. Conservatively, I would assume that heating and bending aluminum to have a similar reduction in strength. As far as stiffness goes, annealed aluminum bends very easily, so I would assume that the stiffness would be affected too. Anyway, that is my $0.02.

Yup! Oh and welcome to the forums! (It would be helpful to tell us what you have tried so far, how the car reacted, any diagnostics you or others have done, has it run since the mods, do you have fuel and spark, etc.)

Yep, with that selection of parts, I'd run the n42/p90 and if needed, get custom pistons to get the compression in the range Aydin recommended. I'm running a 3l n42/p90 turbo setup with 8.5 CR at 20 psi of boost. I've never had it dyno'd but it's got more than enough power for the street.

Good luck and remember to adjust the applied torque to account for the crowsfoot length, unless you put it at 90 deg.

I don't know the answer to your question, but below are a few good posts from other sites. It appears that if you have the correct length gearbox (660mm) then it will fit, with modifications for the larger 71C bearing and relocating one of the side mounted switches. https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/1966-what-gearboxs-fit/

I don't recall, were the stock screws supposed to be reused or were they provided? If you can figure out the class of bolt then I would use a torque chart from a reputable source like this one: https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf If screws were not provided then I probably replaced the screws with new high strength class 10.9 or 12.9 and torqued them per the linked chart.

It's probably polyurethane since it's so flexible, it's been a while so I don't really remember. I put an MSA type 1 fiberglass dam on my first daily driver '76 s30. It had no bracing and as far as I know it never had a problem with it folding under the car.

Looks good! I need to do something similar to mine. I have a Xenon dam made from ABS, it is actually bent downwards from, what Im guessing is airflow pushing on it, probably warping from heat too. When I got the car, it didn't have any support so the dam would fold under a highway speeds. To prevent that, I closed out the bottom with a large sheet of aluminum that screws to the lip and made brackets to attach the back to the sway bar mounting locations.

It's just a street car: Speedo, Tach, Fuel Level, Volts, Coolant Temp, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Boost pressure.

Dang those are really cool! I'll have to call them next week to see if they will sell me the faces to swap out on mine.

You'll be happy with them. I love my revolutions with black faces with white letters that light up red at night. The only think I wish I had done differently was get the dual speedo/fuel gauge. That would have saved me one gauge and fit better in my setup - 8 in total.

This seems like some legitimate testing.