rossman

I think ozconnection is right about valve train noise. The head gasket should provide some damping. In my case I am running a MLS gasket so the damping may be minimal. I'm thinking I may mount the senor down low on the upper part of the block's skirt or near the transmission mount. Regardless I'm going to try it out on a junk block to veryify that I don't drill into anything important on my rebuilt engine.

I thought this was an interesting read. Maybe I should sell the J&S and drive around with head phones on . Seriously, I might just put one of these together so I can tune the J&S. http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0348

Hmm, I hadn't thought of putting it in the head. It will have to go somewhere else though I plan to use the heater outlet. Rebello plugged it for some reason.

Does anybody know if I can safely drill where the green dot is in the picture above?

Phil, Do you remember how deep you drilled into the block? Cheers, Ross

My turbo engine uses an N42 block. I want to install a J&S Vampire Knock Control but this block doesn't have a sensor boss like the F54. I am trying to figure out where to locate the sensor. It's a Bosch sensor with an M8 thru hole. The sensor came with a stud that has an M10 x 1.25 on one end and an M8 x 1.0 on the other. The M10 part of the stud is about .63" long. I would like to us the stud but I don't think it's necessary. I emailed J&S a while back but they are unresponsive. So what I would like to know if anybody here has drilled a knock sensor hole on a not turbo L6 block and where they located it. Right now I see two options. The first option and probably the safest is to drill out one of the heater hose mounting boss' to M8 and install the knock sensor on that. This is where I plan to mount a Ron Tyler LS1 coil bracket. I suppose I could just get a stud long enough and mount both to the same hole. I don't know if this would have a negative impact on the sensor. The second option is to locate the senor on the serial number boss right were L28 is written. I have no idea how much material there is behind that boss. Drilling out an M10 hole with full threads .63" deep might punch into the water jacket or something else. Here is a picture of the side of the engine. The red circle is the first option the green dot is the second option. Right now I'm leaning towards the first option but I'd like to hear some options either way. Cheers, Ross

I started putting the engine together. I got the powder coated valve cover off Ebay for $65 which I thought it was a good deal. It looks pretty much flawless. The oil pan came off my 240. the PO painted it the same color as the car. I may paint it black, but I dunno I kinda like the silver. I'm going to install a -10 AN bulkhead fitting on it for the oil return line. The exhaust manifold and turbo are mounted temporarily. I have a few problems here that are slowing me down (not that I'm in a hurry ). First, the turbo studs are too short due to the spacer. I received the correct length yesterday so I should have this problem fixed this weekend. Second, the holes in my ebay spacer are ever so slightly off so that I cant get all the bolts thru it . To top that off, I smoked two of my cheapie drill bits trying to drill out the holes:eek2:. I'm gonna borrow a decent drill from my machinist friend to fix that problem. Lastly, the "universal" wastegate acuator kit I purchased isn't gonna work. It's too short, too low and the bracket bolt spacing isn't wide enough for the position I need it. Apparently the turbo housing bolts aren't evenly spaced around the diameter. So, it's custom bracket time. I also have another straight actuator and extension on it's way. Here is everything bolted on. The turbo is temporarily mounted until I drill out the spacer and get the right length studs in there. $65 "new" powder coated valve cover. The picture doesn't do it justice. GT35R without the compressor housing. Universal wastegate actuator "mounted" - doesn't fit Thie hole spacing by the compressor exit is a different, wider spacing than the rest. The bracket spacing is not wide enough. A picture from the top. I ground off that little bump on the manifold. A picture from the bottom.

The one I need looks like this.

Bump, still need one...

Hmm, I thought all Z car timing marks are on the same side as Alex showing.

It needs to be a Z not a ZX damper. I want one with a large opening around the center bolt. This is what I have NOT what I want:

Please email pics to rossharold@gmail.com Thanks, Ross

Here is a picture of my damper. This picture was taken as if you are looking towards the front of the engine. The screw driver marks the TDC timing mark. I have two of these and they are exactly the same. I hope this helps.

I talked with Dave Rebello today about the pitting around the #1 exhaust port. He says this is common. Apparently it doesn't show up until it is cleaned and blasted. He assures me that high temp Copper RTV will seal it up. I'm going to take his word and move on.

My engine came in yesterday... Notice how it is cocked off to the side of the crate? More on that later. On the engine stand. .535 lift reground cam Mild port job. This worries me. I hope it seals else Rebello will be paying to have it fixed! Remember what I said about the engine being cocked off to the side of the box? Apparently somebody must have dropped it pretty hard. One of the bolts holding the engine to the box broke off. I'm glad they stuffed padding all around the engine. I don't see any other damage.

My newest toy just in today from ATP: Garrett GT35R, dual ball bearing, T3 turbine inlet, .68 A/R turbine, Ford style 5 bolt exhaust flange, ATP "ultimate internal wastegate" with 3" v-band outlet. Every thing looks good. I went ahead and got all the water and oil fittings with it. I would think they could have at least thrown in some bolts for the wastegate . It's a minor nitpick but still annoying! Anyway, here are some pictures. My engine should be here this coming Friday.

Thanks for the replies. I have no brazing skills so that option is out. I could take it somewhere and have it brazed but it may be cheaper to just get another pan. Would you guys recommend RTV only or RTV + gasket? How about gasket + Permatex Hylomar? I had good luck sealing a leaky oil pump flange with Hylomar. Cheers, Ross

I bought this turbo oil pan off ebay awhile back. Of course the guy says nothing about the gouges. It amazes me how careless and dishonest people are sometimes. I'm wondering if I will ever get it to seal. I have a fresh Nissan gasket. I thought of filling the gouges with epoxy and sanding smooth. I dunno, any other ideas?

I'm in for a hub, sensor mount and wheel. I already sent you a PM.

Cool! Can you hear? I remember hearing that their shows were REALLY f#cking loud. As they should be . My personal favorite Aussie band is the Beasts of Bourbon..."Oh mama, why don't you get up?"

I ordered a GT35R from ATP turbo today. I decided to go a slightly different route. I'm going to stick with the stock turbo manifold so ordered a .63 a/r T3 turbine with a Ford 5 bolt style integral wastegate hole. With that I got their "ultimate integral wastegate" that comes with a 3" v-band connection for the down pipe. My engine should be coming in next week . I'll post pictures of it and the turbo when they come in. Cheers, Ross

The goal of this project is to have a stock looking 1972 240z with a much more powerful engine and beefed up drive train and some suspension modifications to match. This car will be mostly a weekend driver with some track days. The only constraint (besides money ) is that I want to stick with the L6 and Datsun/Nissan parts as much as possible. Here is the current list of performance parts to reach this goal. Rebello built 3.0 liter L6 turbo N42 engine 89mm 8.5:1 forged JE pistons, Forged rods Offset ground l28 crank Custom Isky Turbo cam Intake: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Exhaust: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Ported head with 1 mm over sized stainless intake valves Intake: 201 @ 25" water Exhaust: 151 @ 25" water Garrett GT3582R turbo, .63 a/r on-center T3 turbine, 3" v-band Wolf V500 EMS running sequential fuel injection and firing six ls1 coils J & S Electronics Vampire individual cylinder knock control Custom Intake Tial BOV Tial wastegate AVO intercooler 21x8x3 core, 2.5” inlet/outlet Custom 3” down pipe Modified stock exhaust manifold and custom wastegate pipe 2.5” aluminum intercooler piping 65 mm throttle body 6 ls1 coils mounted on a Ron Tyler bracket 75 lbs RC fuel injectors Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and FPR Modified 240z gas tank with custom internal reservoir 83 zx distributor mounted CAS with an extra hole for ECU sync Z31t LSD differential Z31t half shafts with M2 shortened shafts Modern Motorsports Z31 to 280z stub axle adapters 280z stub axles Custom rear brace to clear differential cover Ron Tyler differential mount Arizona Z Car race brake conversion I am starting with a straight and almost rust free car. Here is a video of the car a few weeks after I purchased it. It turned out that the valve train noise was caused by a very poorly machined head. There were indentations on the pistons where the valves were hitting them. Here is what it looks like now. Kinda sad. It's been sitting for a while and is all dusty. The L24 is out. I expect to have the Rebello long block in a couple of weeks (January 2009). Here is my gearbox collection and the L24 block that I pulled out of this car. The clean gearbox is the one I pulled out of this car. It's a good box. The one to the left of it is an '82 close ratio. I may install one of these to begin with. When it craters, I'll swap in a Z32 box. Here is the F54/P90 core that I will be sending back to Rebello. My messy benches with lots of stock and performance Z stuff that I have been collecting over the past year or so. More when the engine comes in...

What better advertising for the band than to have a cool guy like Phil blaring their music in his hot rod video? I could understand if it was some riced out punk kid though...

Very nice Phil! I can't wait to see how it runs after tuning.

More details of what you have done to the car might help. Are urethane bushings all the modifications to the drive train? Do you have an R200 differential with u-jointed half shafts? Could be the half shafts bottoming out.