rossman

As promised earlier, I got the engine in the car. I did it all myself in about 3 hours including modifying the transmission mount. Here are some pictures of the install. Sorry for the crappy picture quality. I took these with my phone. Up and over the radiator support. I was a little nervous while it was so high in the air. I kept imagining the bolts shearing off. I had the both ends of the chains attached to bolts just in case. It all went pretty smoothly until I went to bolt up the transmission mount. The holes were about 1-1/8" off After a few minutes of swearing and general disbelief, I took a few measurements, busted out the bench top drill press and wallah...problem solved. I actually like this better. There is less overhang which means less prying on the bolt heads. I promptly installed the exhaust manifold to check for clearances. Looking good so far. I was really worried about the wastegate to steering shaft clearance but this looks good too. Intake manifold installed Checked clearance to the compressor outlet to shock tower. It's a little tight but I think it will work. I may go with a hard pipe here to gain a little more clearance. That's all for now. Thanks for looking!

Well I finally made some progress. I'm tired of fooling around with the engine on the stand. Hopefully I'll have it in the car tomorrow morning...wait, it is morning ACT pressure plate and 6 puck spring center clutch disk: Z32 gearbox mated with 240Hoke's adapter and McKinney motorsports shifter:

Apparently the Zcar.com mods removed the thread. Bummer, I was looking for some entertainment tonight

It was just computer simulation. I'm not sure what his boundary conditions were but pressure will build up due to flow restriction. I pulled that link from MONZTERs Turbo intake plenum thread. I believe he just ran the Cartech one for comparison to his and the HKS intake. Ideally you would want EGT sensors on every cylinder, otherwise you are kinda shooting in the dark.

I've had this theory churning in my head for a while now and I thought I'd share it to get some feed back. I am sure someone else has discussed it before but I couldn't find anything specific to this subject as it relates to detonation. The theory is that uneven air distribution caused by stock or stock like intake manifolds setups with the TB @ 90 degrees relative to the intake runners, could be a significant contributor to the detonation problems with the L6, especially boosted L6's. I was looking at the CFD work that MONZTER did on the stock style intake manifold (results here). It appeares to me that while under boost, cylinders 4 - 6 received more air than 1 - 3. Assuming that all of the fuel injectors are all dumping the same amount of fuel then that would lead me to believe that cylinders 4 - 6, especially 5 & 6 are running quite leaner than 1 & 2. Combine this with poor coolant flow in cylinders 4, 5 & 6 (as discussed here) then you get a serious recipe for detonation. Thoughts?

From the machine shop production planner's desk at work: "Failure to plan on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part..." "If you want it bad, you'll get it bad"

Yes, I've seen several oriented with the cap down. It shouldn't be a problem. In fact I plan to mount mine like that.

LOL. Sorry for the bad grammar. I was tired last night after driving from Hots Springs, Arkansas to Houston. I thought it was odd and kinda cool seeing an ol' 280zx being pulled by a RV. That's all.

This isn't something you see every day

Nice.

I don't like big wings so I'd go with the lower rubber wing.

It doesn't look like that until you have it hot tanked and bead blasted. All the corroded aluminum comes off. I dunno, maybe I just got lucky with my exhaust studs. I'm sure this has been discussed on HZ before.

Well, I don't know about "generally." I've owned 3 S30's and none of them had studs "pop out." Seize, yes, strip, yes, pop out, not yet. You are correct that heat cycles are causing the manifold to warp over time. My point is that there is more at play here, especially on #1, the one that is broken on the OP's car. After discussing the pitting around #1 exhaust port on my rebuilt head (shown below) with Dave Rebello, he stated that it was very common on L6's. Do you think this might have something to do with #1 exhaust stud failing? I think so.

Neither "solution" addresses the real problem. An 8mm stud should be plenty strong to hold the manifold in place assuming there are no other underlying problems. The real problem is probably that the bolt is corroded due to water intrusion from a current or previously leaky thermostat housing and/or the manifold is warped...which was probably also caused or made worse by the leaky housing. I think people don't notice leaks there because it runs on the hot manifold and evaporates up quickly. Mobious5 - After you remove the manifold, check or have it checked to see if it is true. Install a Helicoil insert instead of just threading the aluminum. Apply anti-seize to the treads of both the insert and the stud. If you use a larger stud make sure you open up the hole in the manifold too. The hole is supposed to be over sized to allow for differential thermal expansion between steel and aluminum.

If you are going to get it out yourself the first thing you need to do is soak the thread over night in PB Blaster (not WD40 or anything else). If you have a welder, try tacking bolt head and shank on to the end of the stud then backing it out with a wrench. Otherwise, try getting it out with a bolt extractor (A.K.A. Easyout). Drill the biggest hole in the stud that you can while still leaving enough wall for the extractor to grab onto. Also drill it deep enough so that the extractor doesn't bottom out. I always tap the easyout into the hole so that it cuts its own teeth and grabs well initially. Good luck!

LOL, man can I relate! I regularly deal in thousandths of an inch at work and come home to work on my house where the walls are easily out 1/2 inch or more. It's a difficult adjustment. I know what you mean about the remodeling shows. They show the easy part and act like the whole job is easy as pie. My wife watches that stuff to get ideas. At first she was expecting me to turn around a bathroom remodeling job in a week! I had to educate her on what it really takes. Now she sees the BS they show on HGTV. There is lots of BS not just remodeling: home prices, materials usage, etc.

Here are some pictures of the latest addition to my ever changing setup. It's a SST (Speed Shop Thagard) manifold that I purchased from Garrett (Garrett76t). As you can see it has tapered runners that protrude into the plenum to form simple velocity stacks. He was getting over 500 HP with this manifold. The only problem (of course there's always a problem ) is that I have 14 mm injectors and this one takes 11mm injectors. I think I'm going to have the injector ports opened up to accept the 14mm injectors. Although, it would be easier to just buy new 11mm injectors but the selection is limited. Decisions, decisions.

I know this is an old thread but there is a more general discussion on head cooling here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125186. I agree with TimZ that this not a good idea. I think this is especially true with a high HP turbo engine. It may not make a difference for lower HP L6's where the cooling system has more cooling margin.

No problem. I just don't agree. Cheers, Ross

I noticed that you plumbed your heater bypass back to the pump intake. I don't think this is a good idea. Basically you will be recirculating water from the block back to the pump without removing any heat. This situation could cause cooling problems. If you're not going to connect your heater then just block off both fittings.

Anything by Fu Manchu. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vffriKpgMGQ&feature=PlayList&p=2523C8893AB62ECB&index=0

Yes it does. I'm looking into some bellows. The pipe ODs measure 1.66" which I believe corresponds to 1.25" pipe. Of course I can't find anyone online with bellows that size. Anybody know of a source?

Is this the kind of bellows you are referring to? http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=371&prodname=Stainless+Steel+Flex+Couplers%2C+Bellows+with+Interlocking+Lining

That's interesting Tony. If tubing expansion causes the header to warp then I would expect it to warp the other way around. The outer pipes, 1 & 6 will expand more than 2 & 5 and 3 & 4 so I would expect the outer ends to be pushed inwards, towards the head. I think what is happening here is that the end of the flange is being pulled out away from the head. It seems like tube contraction is causing the header to warp. Could it be then when the header gets hot that is expands and stress relieves itself and then when it cools it wants to pull the flange back? That might explain why it would continuously warp. I dunno I'm not materials expert.