rossman

That's interesting Tony. If tubing expansion causes the header to warp then I would expect it to warp the other way around. The outer pipes, 1 & 6 will expand more than 2 & 5 and 3 & 4 so I would expect the outer ends to be pushed inwards, towards the head. I think what is happening here is that the end of the flange is being pulled out away from the head. It seems like tube contraction is causing the header to warp. Could it be then when the header gets hot that is expands and stress relieves itself and then when it cools it wants to pull the flange back? That might explain why it would continuously warp. I dunno I'm not materials expert.

I still haven't made much progress lately except for a few new parts I purchased lately. I got a T4 > T3 adapter from MC Motorsports off Ebay. Nice, quality part. I mocked it and the turbo up on the engine/manifold to see how it looked: I still need to get gaskets and my wastgate back from the shop. Hopefully they were able to match up a valve guide for it. In other big news I purchased a James Thaggard intake manifold from Garrett76Zt. It's funny how things happen somtimes. I was looking at MONZTER's CFD work and I started thinking how I could modify the Lonewolf intake to angle the throttle body towards #3 just like James Thaggard and others had done with their intakes. The next day (or so) I saw Garrett's post where he was selling his intake. I couldn't pass it up. It should be here next week sometime. The Lonewolf intake is going to Ebay. I hope to recover most of the money I forked over for that one. I still think it's a good intake but probably not the one I want for my setup.

As you pour the last quart of oil into the engine you realize you forgot to install the drain plug.

True but I believe it is the price we pay to live in a free society. Now, whether tax money for prisons is used efficiently and properly is another discussion. Aren't we supposed to be discussing cars or something?

Yep, soft compound narrow tires won't last too long.

Is it me or am I the only one who thinks torture, violence and murder are never the right answer? Strip him of all his wealth and lock him up for good. Most people don't want to go to jail.

Wider tires can be made from softer compounds since there is less psi due to a larger contact area. Softer compounds have higher coefficient of friction and allow for more intimate contact with uneven road surfaces.

Yeah, I emailed the them 6 months back but didn't get a response.

Yep that would work too. I actually like that idea better. Another option is to remove material from the intake. I noticed the washers are cupped. I'm guessing this was done to accommodate slightly different thickness flanges.

Hmmm decisions, decisions. I like your advice because you are making it sound like my current setup is good. That means less money to spend. No stock manifold here, I've got a custom divided turbo header with a big a$$ wastegate. It's funny, I was planning to run an internal Ford style wastegate but I was talking with a fellow who told me how he destroyed his turbo buick due to boost spikes caused by his undersized wastegate. I agree that a 1.06 is probably way too high, but it's offered so I threw it in the mix.

It probably is a good choice. It would be nice to find a t4 .8 housing as djz suggested but I can't seem to find one online.

One problem with removing that much material is that now the flange is thinner in the middle. This is only a problem where the washers overlap both the intake and exhaust. I may have to notch the washers where they overlap the intake so that tightening the nuts clamps down on both equally.

I got the header back from the shop yesterday. It looks good, nice and flat.

Nobody? I took it to a local shop and he is going to try to match up a valve guide for it. The bushing in it is a goldish color so I'm thinking it's bronze similar to engine valve guides. I'm not sure how this is going to hold up in this non-lubricated high temperature environment.

I am hoping some of you more seasoned turbo guys can help me decide on a turbine housing. I currently have a GT35R with a .63 A/R ATP "ultimate" internal waste gate setup mounted to a ported stock turbo manifold. This is going on a Rebello built 3.0L L6 with 8.5:1 forged internals, ported head and a custom cam. Details are in my project page. I recently purchased a custom made, divided t4 manifold with an external wastegate. I originally planned on buying a bolt-on t4>t3 ebay adapter, BUT....while I'm at it (been here before?), I might as well look into other options that might have performance advantages. This is where you come in . Here are the "best" options available from ATP I have come up with so far: 1) Keep my current housing and buy a block-off plate with a 3" v-band outlet. 2) Switch to a divided t3, .78 A/R turbine housing and weld or bolt on a divided t4>t3 adapter 3) Switch to a divided 1.06 A/R t4 turbine housing. Here are some considerations: 1) This will be a street and occasional track day car 2) I don't want to keep the boost threshold at a reasonable level, i.e. full boost by 4K 3) I'm not looking for the L6 HP record but I'd like a street worthy 400+ HP machine. I am open to other ideas and vendors. I only looked at ATP because that is who I purchased my turbo from and I know their housings will work with their turbos.

You're not getting a response because you are asking a question that can be found by searching or RTFM. Sorry, not trying to be an a$$, just letting you know. I can't tell by looking at the timing chain. Is the #1 piston at the top of its bore? Are both the #1 cylinder intake and exhaust valves closed? If the answer is yes to both of those then it is at TDC.

I have a used Trust 50mm wastegate that I think needs to be rebuilt. The diaphragm looks to be in good shape but the valve as some radial play in the valve guide. The valve guide looks simple to replace but I can't find anyone on the web who sells parts for it (besides diaphragms and springs). What type of material do they use for this application? Is it worth trying to have it rebuilt or should I just get a new one?

I don't think it's a big deal to have it trued up on a belt sander. The problem I've had is finding someone with a belt sander long enough ~24.5 inches.

There is another guy interested in one these. Whoever pays first gets it.

I was looking for the stock one and realized that I have forgotten that I sold it some time back. These are both NEW Garrett not Turbonetics or cheap Chinese Ebay stuff. ^$85 for this 7 psi one with ATP universal bracket. I paid $105 for these parts. ^$78 for the straight 11 psi one. I paid ATP $98 for this one.

I purchased a 48" belt sander and got half of it flat but it became obvioius that I needed a longer belt. I did learn that 48" meant the length of the belt looped around the rollers NOT the distance between rollers. Stupid me. Today I took it to a shop with a big enough belt sander that said they can true it up for me. I got my fingers crossed.

A rising rate fuel pressure regulator is installed in-line with your fuel return line. You attach a hose from your intake to give it a boost/vacuum signal. Based on the boost signal, it blocks off the fuel return so that there is more pressure at the fuel injectors. The limitation to this is that the stock injectors are pretty low flowing. You might also consider going with turbo injectors. If you do this you have to modify (tighten) the air flow meter spring. There are instructions how to do this on HZ.

$10 + shipping for the stock (used) one. I'll have to check what I paid for the others. I purchased them from ATP they weren't cheap but I'll give you at discount off what I paid.

Stock our aftermarket? I have 1 stock and 2 new Turbonetics actuators and one universal ATP/Garrett turbo actuator mounting kit.

The pickup is held on to the bottom of the block with two screws and there is a gasket that goes in between the flanges. Nice fab work BTW. I'm subscribed. I wish I had your skills.