rossman

More details of what you have done to the car might help. Are urethane bushings all the modifications to the drive train? Do you have an R200 differential with u-jointed half shafts? Could be the half shafts bottoming out.

I have 240z with what appears to be a completely unhacked wiring system and unmelted original fuse box. As far as I know, the rear running lights have never worked since I got the car. I've had the car for almost a year and I haven't noticed it since I almost always drive during the day. I found out the rear running lights were out when I got pulled over by the local police. Luckily he let me go with only a warning. Today I decided to fix the problem. The first thing I did was check the fuse. And as luck would have it, the fuse is blown. Upon inspection I found a 10A fuse where the lable on the cover specifies a 20A. I think to myself: Well the PO must have not had the correct fuse so he just installed a smaller one to get by until until the next trip to the auto parts store. So I replaced the fuse, no big deal. Then I start checking the other fuses and find that several of them are either over or under sized: the right head light - 5A, Horn - 20A, Air con - 30A, and another lower one, I don't remember which. So, other than not having the correct fuse at the time, why would somebody put different rating fuses in the fuse box? I'm a little paranoid. I don't want to burn up my car

KTM - First off, thanks for putting this together. It is very informative. I would like to make one clarification about the 240z ignition switch on my 11/71 "72" 240z. You wrote: For those of you with a 240z, Ron Tyler informed me there is no single wire that is both hot in 'start' and hot in 'run'. You will need to replace the switch with a 280z switch that has a single wire that is hot in both 'start' and 'run'. There is actually one wire (black with white) that is hot in the "on" and "start" positions. I think the problem is that there is a momentary loss of power between "on" and "start" on the 240z ignition switch. On the 280z ignition switch there is no loss of power between "on" and "start." I can see that the momentary loss of power would cause havoc with an EMS.

Have you check the switch on the gearbox? Check that is is connected and functioning correctly.

Oops! I did a quick search and didn't find it. edit: now I see it...posted 2 weeks ago! Mods, feel free to "shed" this thread.

Yeah I had a '02 WRX for a while. I really liked the car. I had it dyno tuned @ 272 WHP with some minor mods including a UTEC piggy back ECU.

I thought this was kinda cool: http://video.kenblockracing.com/flash/small_player/preloader.swf?vendor_id=204&media_id=9183&bgcolor=FFFFFF&autoplay=0 You gotta love the sound of that boxer!

Cam: .535" lift 278 advertized duration (230 - 235 actual) 114 lobe center P90 Head: Intake: 201 @ 25" water Exhaust: 151 @ 25" water Compression: 8.5:1 (static)

Lets just say that PanzerAce is a little high on the low side.

Thanks for the update. Are the hubs made from a casting or plate aluminum? What is the alloy? Just curious.

Cool! I got my LC1. 1 down, 87,000 more to go...

How do you tell if you have a version 1 or 2? Printed on the label on the back of my ECU is "H/W REV A 22nF, F/W rev 5.03." Is this a version 1 or 2 ECU?

3.0 with forged pistons and rods, turbo cam, and port and polished head. It should be fun .

My Rebello long block should be arriving shortly after Thanksgiving

Yeah and I totally dropped the l24 turbo idea after finding some pretty deep scatches on the deck of the block I was planning to use.

Thanks for the warm welcome!

I just purchased a new Wolf V500 from SuperDan. Thanks for the smokin' good deal deal Dan! Also thanks to rontyler for sending me to him and to KTM who got me thinking about other EMS systems besides MS. I'm sure I'm going to be asking lots of stupid noob questions so please cut me some slack . Here are the current plans for my '72 240z (as of today no guarantees it won't change tomorrow!): - Rebello built 3.0L long block, 8.5:1 forged pistons, forged rods, fully ported and polished head, turbo cam (ordered 11/3/2008) - Wolf V500 (of course), sequential injection - Holset HE351 turbo - BAE turbo exhaust manifold - Lone Wolf intake, fuel rail amd water/methane injection ports - 83ZXT distributor with the rontyler extra hole - Crank mounted CAS - LS1 coil packs - Delphi 75 lb/hr injectors - Water/methanol injection kit (haven decided which kit yet) - Tial BOV (considering recirculation due to noise) - AVO 21x8x3 intercooler - 2.5" intercooler piping Cheers, Ross

Sweet! Looks very nice. I will take one + a hub mount assuming they are not crazy expensive.

Very nice! If you ever want to make a production run let me know, I'd buy a set for sure.

Dave - Have you got the car up and running yet? How is the mount working out for you?

I purchased my MSII (3.57 board) from DIYAutotune fully assembled/tested. I don't plan to use any of the original wiring harness except for the +12v wire coming out of the ignition switch to MS relay board. I am seriously considering EDIS. I have to figure out how to mount the bracket along with my A/C compressor. Cygnusx1 figured out a way to mount it to the A/C bracket but I would like to hear how it is working.

Yes you can clock compressor on a Holset. You need to separate the housings and grind off the little clocking nipple. It will be obvious when you take it apart.

Thanks for your input. I don't want to skimp on the injectors. From what I understand 750 cc RC injectors will support a 500 hp l6 with good margin. I forgot to mention that Rebello was concerned about running Megasquirt. They are concerned that it doesn't have sequential injection and suggested that I run 3 injector drivers. I'm not sure exactly what that means. I know there are some 500+ hp cars here running megasquirt so I am wondering if this is a real concern.

So I have placed an order with Rebello to build me a 3.0 stroker L series long block with forged 8.5:1 pistons and forged rods, turbo cam, and a fully ported and polished P90 head. Now I have to decide on the rest of the hardware. I gathered these parts thinking I was going to build on a stock l28. Here is what I have on hand: -Fuel, ignition and boost control, MSII -turbo, Holset HE351 -exhaust manifold, stock, ported turbo flange -intake, stock, n42, fully ported -blow off valve, 50 mm, Tial -intercooler, AVO 3x8x21, 2.5" in/out -piping, aluminum, 2.25" to intercooler 2.5" out -injectors, 450 cc, DSM -fuel pump, Aeromotive A1000 -Fuel pressure regulator, Aeromotive A1000 -4" down pipe, cast iron, Holset -distributor, 83 stock turbo ,-fuel rail, o-ringed, 11mm. Pallnet I am looking to ultimately produce 400-500 WHP. I don't think this setup will get me there but I like to get it going with a conservative tune and upgrade as needed. To start, I think I need bigger fuel injectors...maybe 750 cc. I'm not sure how the Holset will perform with this setup but I figured I would give it a shot since I already have it. What do you guys think? Any glaring deficiencies (besides the injectors)?

Well, after much consideration I've decided to drop the cash and get a Rebello long block. I'm getting the 3.0 stroker with 88.5 mm forged 8.5:1 pistons and forged rods, fully ported and polished head, turbo cam, turbo oil pump, etc.