rossman

Does the temperature go up while sitting/idling then drop while driving? If so, you might want to try an electric pusher fan on top of your stock fan. Have you read the head cooling thread? There are lots of good tips in there including using Water Wetter and lowering the % of EG. Blocking off the FI recirculation might help although you'll have to be careful not to rev the engine cold and it will screw up your cold idle valve. I blocked off my FI recirculation line and never noticed any problems but I live in a temprate area and there are rarely any truely "cold" cold starts. Running as much static advance as possible will help. I advanced my timing as much as possible (on a stock N/A setup only) until I could hear knock then backed off a few degrees. Have you checked if your damper has slipped? Maybe you aren't running as much advance as you think you are.

Another option is to cut a 7/8 inch hole in the side of the N/A pan (with a step drill bit) and install a AN-10 bulkhead connector (P/N 983210), nut (P/N 992410) and washer (P/N 178014). No welding required.

I agree, you should inspect the cylinders for scoring. When I pulled the head off my old setup (similar to yours), one piston had been replaced and there was deep scoring in 5 & 6. You never know. The PO told me it kept blowing head gaskets. Apparently he was having some severe detonation problems. An old inefficient turbo, lack of intercooler, high compression pistons and jerry rigged fuel system is a recipe for disaster if you're not careful. I considered water injection before I just ditched the whole thing after I found out the bottom end was trashed.

It's funny because I thought this was going to be a thread about how a turbo deadens exhaust noise. cygnusx1 and Pyro are spot on, the turbo will muffle your exhaust considerably. Some guys just run straight pipes with turbos.

I believe Motorsport Auto has them. I'm sure Courtesy Nissan has them for a reasonable price too.

There are lots of threads about head gaskets on HZ. If it were mine, I'd use a Nissan gasket.

I haven't done much recently. I've been busy with a big review at work and the house has needed lots of attention. I got to keep my priorities straight . However, I couldn't pass up this little gem. It's custom made with high carbon steel flanges and stainless pipes. The turbo flange is t4 so I'll need to get an adapter for my t3. I'll probably go ahead and get a divided adapter off ebay and a new ATP divided t3 .78 A/R turbine housing. The only divided t4 housings I can find for the GT35 are 1.0 A/R which would probably take forever to spool. Of course, nothing's ever perfect. The flange is warped a bit. I'm trying to find someone to true it up for me. The only shop I could find around here that had a belt sander long enough didn't want to mess with it for some reason. I bolted it down to the head and checked the running torque. It took less than a foot pound to bring it in. The FSM calls for 18 ft-lbs max. I may just try it as-is. Here it is hanging off the studs. It clears the motor mount bracket by an inch or so. I'm a little worried that my A/C compressor won't fit. It's going to be close. I'm going to have to move the oil return fitting to clear the wastegate. No biggie. I'm sure someone on HZ can hook me up with a non-turbo oil pan. I need the 280z/N42 mid-sump type because the sump is more FWD than the ZX oil pan sumps.

Yeah, I've seen many things warp from welding it's just something that has to be dealt with. I guess I was wondering why header flanges warp after they are used for some period of time. They start out straight then warp - what exactly causes this? I have read that a thick flange prevents warping but mine has a 1/2 inch thick flange and is still warped. If I straighten the flange by heating it up and cooling slowly as suggested in this thread, won't is just warp again?

What causes headers like this to warp? Is it weld shrinkage? Is it heat cycling? Is it different cooling rates due to the flange being mounted to a large relatively cool heat sink (head) and the pipes are thin, only exposed to air and the relatively hot turbo flange.

You mean heat the header flange until it is glowing red then clamp it down? Do you think bolting it to a scrap head would work? How about heating while it is bolted to the scrap head?

So this is basically a stress relieving process to take out weld shrinkage? Hmmm, If I only knew somebody who had an oven...

Yes it was. I was not happy to discover the flange is warped as much as it is. I'm still negotiating with the seller to get a partial refund to cover the cost of straightening. He offered me a full refund but I still want the header because I think I can make it work.

I had a similar setup on my old 280z. There is a thread with a link to pictures here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126119&highlight=school+turbo. The main differences are 1) The air flow meter was relocated in front of the radiator. 2) It had a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

One guy recommended that I do it by hand with a disk sander and straight edge. Sounds kinda hokey to me.

I tried another two shops today. The first shop had a Bridge Port but they didn't want to take it on because they didn't know how to set it up. The second shop had a belt sander long enough but they won't touch it because they have to remove too much material. I'm at a loss now.

I use the term "machine" kinda loosely I guess. I'm open to whatever method gets it true and flat. One shop I talked to today offered to belt sand it until they realized it was 24.5" long. Their sander isn't long enough. They called another shop but they couldn't do it either. I'm going to check another "speed shop" tomorrow.

I've decided to have it machined flat but I can't find a local shop that can do it. I guess I need to find one in Houston. Anybody know a decent shop in Houston?

Hi - As the subject states, I'm in need of a 280z mid-sump oil pan. This is the standard oil pan on the 280z. The 280zx oil pan sump is too far back for my needs. Please send pictures to rossharold@gmail.com.

FWIW, MSA and Stahl NA headers have one-piece flanges.

Seems like I have seen them both ways. I'm afraid if I cut the flange that it might move around more. But it could go back to flat if it's the flange causing the bow. Is it the flange or the header pipes causing the bow? I dunno. The down pipe will have to be custom but otherwise it looks like it fits. The wastegate pipe is about an inch from the motor mount bracket.

I purchased this used custom turbo header recently. The flange is bowed ~.030" at #2 & #5 and ~.060 at #1 & #6. The flange is .5" thick. What is the best way to flatten the flange? Would it be a good idea to cut the flange between 1&2, 2&3, 4&5 and 5&6 or is this asking for more trouble?

One of my favorites:

Anybody tap into their head above exhaust ports 4/5? Where did you tap? The space is a little tight in that area, especially with my fat intake manifold. Based on the discussion here I think I'm going to end up putting coolant ports above exhaust ports 3/4, 5 & 6. 5&6 are currently tapped, now I'm going to VERY CAREFULLY tap drill/tap a port above 3/4. Anybody else tapped into the head with it bolted to the block? It makes me a little nervous. I'm going to turn the engine on its side and drill up into it with a vacuum sucking out chips.

People's optionons on Turbonetics wastegates are all over the map. I think they are OK some people think they suck. Tial is usually regarded as the best. Greddy are good too. Go to the Turbonetics website I believe they have a PDF you can download with instructions on how to hook them up.

If you are talking about the gauge on the red anodized part it is a fuel pressure gauge. You don't have to replace it but it can be purchased separately from the fuel pressure regulator. One of the wastegate hoses runs to a boost source (intake manifold, turbo outlet, etc.) with a boost controller in between. The other hose is usually open to atmosphere. What kind of wastegate do you have? The hose to boost source should be on the side of the wastegate diaphragm that will cause the wastegate to open when boost pressure is applied. I hope that makes sense.