AkumaNoZeta

I am looking for the pedal assembly from a manual S30.

I'm not anywhere close to this part in my project but my idea was to lower the stock location for the battery (it's rusted out and needs replacing anyways) so I can fit an Optima there with a weather tight, easily removable fuse box mounted above it and putting the PCM on the passenger side's kicker panel. I like fuse boxes in the engine bay because my fat butt can hardly get under any kind of dash board.

I've had some experience with these torch handles before and it was shockingly easy on sheet steel so I should be able to get a hang of it on aluminum. The welder in this video isn't as good as the guy in your video though. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mwznk009mQs

In my case, I don't even care if it takes a year and 6 months to make. I have tons of patience, just no money. If I had a TIG I would do it myself. I'm already considering getting a few pieces of 1/2" thick aluminum and start making the flanges myself. The runners will be a little difficult, going from an oval to a circle, and also spreading out a tiny bit to meet the ITBs. I'm sure if I make a jig to hold the flanges in the right positions then I can make the runners myself too and then just number them, put reference marks on them, and give the whole thing for someone to weld up for me. We do have a nice oxy-acetelyn torch, has anybody ever tried welding aluminum with one? I've only done it with a TIG before in school. There's a lot more money going into building a car than I originally thought, I've already spent $1000 just on C25 for my MIG and I'm barely half-way done with my chassis work.

I guess no one is interested. I can't afford $2000+ for a professional to make it. I'm going to make a scale drawing on poster board of what I want so I can go around town here and see if any of these industrial fab places would be willing to give it a try, and hopefully not cost too much.

I have an aluminum project that I would like to have done for cheap, maybe by a novice needing practice. I have a 7M-GE and I got the ITBs off a RB26 and would like to have a lower intake made to mate the two, and eventually a plenum too. I've been thinking about it for a long time and willing to admit it's beyond my skill level. Would anyone be interested?

When it comes to V6s I always thought an older Ford 3.8 would be cool, the ones that look like a miniature 5.0 Windsor.

Well, after I started dissecting the car I quickly found I had nothing to work with. The floors that were in it were nothing more than 22g sheet metal screwed around the perimeter (I didn't cut any of the floor out, the removed sections are what were left after removing the rigged up "floor". Also the rockers were completely shot. It looked good from the outside but I quickly discovered that one of the previous owners sprayed expanding foam in the area, then shaved it down, bondoed over it, and painted it. I also have a stick of 2" X 3" X 0.083" tubing to replace the front sub-frames inside the engine bay. These too are filled with the same expanding foam, as well as the rusted out rails being completely buckled above the sway bar mounts. Back when I was still driving the car I had to jerry-rig something of my own because the front torque box (that's what I call it, the sloping part of the subframe behind the TC bucket) busted out under braking forces. It was my only driving car back then so I had to do something just to still be able to get to work. It's not a track car, in fact I hope to have it as a reliable daily driver again. I'm not putting a cage in it and it's just getting a Toyota 7M engine. The 2X4 in the rocker isn't just to put back the structure lost from both inner and outer rockers being gone, but because I wanted reassurance that the car can handled being jacked up from them over and over again for another 40 years. I don't think the hump in the floor will be nearly as noticeable after sound deadening and carpet are put in. I will give the Nissan engineers all the credit and respect that they deserve because even with no floors, half a sub-frame missing, and no rockers, it still felt stiffer than my rust-free foxbody and it stayed right behind my friend on his cafe-style KZ650 on the curvy back roads of Arkansas. I will say this though, it took me two days of placing jacks and jack stands in just the right areas to pull the twist out of the unibody.

Yeah, the rail will be jutting out. The subframe connector is a 2" X 2" X 0.083" tubing and the floor is in the middle of that so the rail sticks out 1" from the top of the floor and 1" below it. I also have 2 sections of 1.5" X 0.083" round tubing to connect the subframe connector to the 2" X 4" X 0.120" tubing in the rocker panels. I've read multiple times that through-floor subframe connectors are stronger which makes sense to me thinking it makes the floor act more like a gusset instead of something more or less just along for the ride. And we all know that a straight tube is stronger than one with bends in it. I just put both of those theories together in my design.

I finished the connector on the driver's side. My progress has been very slow, I know. It appears I may have to modify the pedals to compensate for the higher floor. The boot sank the cardboard down a little bit while taking the photo, so I think the pedal is going to land at mid-foot. And here you can see that the bottom of the accelerator comes in contact with the would-be floor. I'm going to wait until I get seat brackets fabbed up and re-mock up the pedals and see how it really feels before I cut them up. Planning on using dual brake master cylinders so I'm not too concern about changing the pedal ratio since cylinder bore can compensate for it.

I need a driver's side door window. Early 74' 260Z. I believe they're all the same from 70-77, more than likely I'm wrong.

Well, it looks like a 1 tooth cam gear to me but the irregular surface makes me wonder if it has an affect. Reasoning tells me that the single tooth would be the only thing close enough to the G1/G2 pickup but I'm not 100% since I don't have the experience as many of you.

I have a 7M-GE that I plan on having ITBs and one day hopefully a turbo of some kind. I was looking to invest in a MS3X module. I was looking at the Nippondenso part of the documents here http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/trigger-wheel.html#dualwheelcam and it seems that if I use the GE distributor as a cam sensor that I can run sequential fuel with coil on plugs while the GTE cam sensor that everybody uses only allows bank firing. I would like to know what you guys think of this. I did count the bottom (crank) gear and it does have 24 teeth with none missing, but the top (cam) gear has an asymmetrical shape and I didn't know if this would interfere with the MS3 because I've been Googling all over and haven't found any Supra guys doing this. I attached a photo of the gears.

I think it's messed up that people bribe their customers for positive reviews, I guess you have to expect such actions from humans. After learning that I have an even deeper fear of ordering anything from there now.

That's a good idea. Thank you.

I just took the compression rod off the suspension on the driver's side and the little "buckets" that the bushings fit inside of on the frame were rusted past the spot welds and came off with it. The main part on the frame seems to be just fine, just the small pieces were ate up. Does anyone have any ideas on how to make or find something to replace them with? Here's a photo to help you understand what I mean.

The plan I had was to split the exhaust into two smaller pipes coming out the back (for my car I'm planning 3" splitting into 2 1.75") and having one going on either side of the diff like the twice pipes.

The area above the TC bucket on your right side looks a lot like how mine was back when I was driving my car (except mine wasn't bent back like that). Back then the Z was my only car and one day when I hit the brakes that whole section of the car separated from the rest of the unibody. I had to do a quick fix just so I could keep driving it and back then all I had was a flux welder. My car looked better because of all the dura-glass and bondo the previous owner used but after looking around I found the rockers were completely gone and the floors were just 22g sheet metal screwed down. My front subframe was busted were the sway bar mounts with smaller rust holes above the crossmember. Surprisingly there's only tiny rust holes above my rear wheel arches and a couple in the doors. Roll pan has been hammered in an accident (with 2.5" of dura-glass filling it up). A lot of people didn't think it could be saved but it's on it's way. My outer rockers are cut out completely allowing me to weld a 2X4 0.120" tubing to whats left of the inner rocker and adjoining areas. Then I have 2X2 0.083" as my subframe connector from directly off the TC bucket to the rear crossmember with 1.5" round tubing connecting it to the 2X4 in my rocker with 16g sheet metal used as a floor. I have the passenger side done and still working on the driver's side, but when it's done the engine is coming out and the front sub-frame is going to be replaced by 2X3 0.083". It should go without saying that I gave my flux core welder away to a friend and bought myself a nice MIG. When you start working on it, just remember to not rush yourself. That's the biggest mistake I see people do, the more time you take the better your results will be.

I wouldn't mind, but the car won't be done for a LONG time. Especially with my limited income. I just hope by the time it's done that Branson will still have the Z car festival. I haven't been to one yet, and I don't want to go until I can drive my Z there. My inner rockers are completely replaced by a 2X4 0.120" tubing and I have a 1.25" wide strip of 1/8" thick steel welded on the bottom of them to act like a replacement pinch weld. I think that would be strong enough to use for jacking, or would it not?

Progress on my car has been extremely slow on my Z but I did a lot to it and feel like I should share. I don't have enough to start a good build thread yet, tell me what you think so far. Here's how it was when I first got the car: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/68829-vent-knob-and-floor-problems/page__p__648881__fromsearch__1#entry648881

I spent months searching for aftermarket 7M valve covers and I never found any. Too bad they're $700 though, that's almost half the price of putting the DCOEs on. I've been having a lot of set-backs lately, the big angle grinder I've been doing most of my chassis work with burnt out on me so I have to buy a new one. Then there's the pricing of the ASE tests I plan to take after I've been working at this shop for a year (January) and the car I'm driving while the Z is down still needs a lot of work ($$$) before I trust it to drive out of town to take the tests. Even before my grinder broke I wasn't get much done because I've been welding up my boss' dad's 33' Ford truck every weekend, he's on vacation this week though so when I get paid Friday I'll have a new grinder and a whole weekend for the Z.

Locally the only high temp epoxies I can find are http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CarGo-3-oz-ThermoSteel-High-Temp-metal-repair-jar/_/N-26sd?itemIdentifier=515553_0_0_&target=shelf and http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/JBW0/8297/N0400.oap?ck=Search_epoxy_N0400_-1_4074&keyword=epoxy&pt=N0400&ppt=C0137 (I know, you said no JB weld.) I might be able to find something better at Lowe's or is there a certain brand you would trust more that I should order online?

I don't have the means to weld aluminum though. I'd have to get someone to do it. Even so, would warpage be a problem? I'd hate to have a valve cover that doesn't seal. And what about using JB Weld to fill in the welder's low spots? I live in a small town and haven't found any fabricator around here that I be happy with.

I have a 7M-GE and I want to take out that dip on the valve covers and smooth them out and paint them black. What is the best way to do that? I was thinking of using fiberglass but I don't know how it will react to the heat.

That's the best source to how a differential works and why that I have ever seen. It didn't teach me anything new but whenever anyone asks me how a differential works I just show them that video.