AkumaNoZeta

It would be cool to see some of your ideas, also what plans do you have for the cars?

I call that fancy donuts, not drifting.

I've learned that there's quite a few differences between the 79-86 and 87-93 foxbodies. I didn't even know the struts were different, but I retrofitted the newer ones into the older chassis. I'm trying to spend the least amount of money possible on the car because in reality it's just going to be my new DD so I can spend a few years building up the Z. I got the rear body harness of the Mustang ready to get grafted to the Capri connectors since we're using the Mustang's hatch and tail lights. There were a lot of snipped wires under the hood of the Capri but given that all that's really needed there are the starter solenoid and headlight circuits it won't be hard to figure out. We already gave the Mustang body to a buddy of ours who is planning to cut it up into a dirt track car of some sort so it won't be possible to see where that small 8 pin connector went to with the green/white and orange/yellow wires...I'm starting to think that maybe it went to the HVAC controls, but I don't know for sure. I think I may just need the three that go to the ignition switch, fuel pump, and gauge cluster. The engine and transmission are still out of the car so I still have plenty of time to figure it out.

Well, here's the break down of what I have so far. I'm slightly color blind so the colors may not be too accurate. Lt. Green/Yellow splints into two, one going to the ignition switch, the other to cruise control. Pink/Black goes to fuel pump. Pink going to gauge cluster (that must be the idiot light of course) The last two are green/white and orange/yellow and goes to a small 8-pin connector that I don't know what went to.

Well, I bought a 1986 4 cylinder/5 speed Mercury Capri chassis for $300 to put all my Mustang parts in. Already got the 8.8 in it and currently working with the strut towers, modifying the older chassis for the newer struts. The wiring is kinda bothering me though, it's hard to find a good diagram for the 1990 5.0 HO harness. Most of the engine has it's own harness, there's only one connector that goes into the body harness and it's an 8 pin with 5 wires coming out of it. I traced them the best I could but most went to other connectors that were already disconnected so I don't know what those were for, one went to the cruise control (removed), and another went to the ignition switch. Would anyone happen to know where all 5 of these wires should go? I assume one goes to the electric pump in the tank but I don't know which one. The two ignition switches look different between the two cars and there's like 20 wires on each so I don't know which one that other wire should be spliced to.

Do you think it would be possible and keep it's durability and dependability? I don't think 5mm would be that much, it's only 2.5mm off each side, I just don't know about how hard that steel would be so I don't know how hard machining it would be.

I have a quick question. I like the 3.36 gear in my R180 but I have an early model and the LSD units I usually see for sale are for the 115mm ID gears. Is it possible for a machine shop to bore it out to fit?

Why not just use this? http://ksportusa.com/asp/hydraulic.asp

1645cc? I think it should be just like half a LS7 and be 3500cc.

More rust = less weight in my book.

That was worse than I was thinking. I was starting to think "Oh no, someone found a picture of me back when my license plate was held up with zip-ties"... I'm almost relieved.

I always wanted to see what these would look like on a Z. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CELICA-TA22-TA23-27-RA28-25-FENDER-MIRROR-JDM-ax-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4840563a81QQitemZ310317038209QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Just wait until one of those cars has a defect where the grill doesn't open back up and it starts to overheat. That person doesn't realize it has that feature and replaces the water pump, coolant lines, thermostat, everything he can think of and then sells the car to someone for $500 because he couldn't figure it out.

Oh, when he said "my stock booster died today. And I'm not buying a new one" I was thinking that this was going to allow him to eliminate the booster.

I have a 260Z that I put a Honda wiper motor in. I couldn't find a way to use the original switch and wiring because all the instructions I've found were for 240Z installation which only has Off, Hi, and Lo unlike the later models having the intermittent. I got rid of the module and used a 20/30 relay and have it working with a universal 3 position switch and plan to get a 240Z wiper/headlight switch sometime.

You shouldn't have posted that BRE Z. Everytime I look at a photos of one of those, it distracts me away from my real plans. I guess I just need another S30.

I have to ask...who's going to sell their Z to buy it?

So this turns the brakes manual? I like that option, I'd like to see pictures of it when you finish.

Ok, how about this scenario? Say someone takes a Foxbody Mustang and lowers it dramatically without changing the the chassis mount locations of the control arms, then it would develop pro-squat. Right?

This conversation started with a discussion of live axles too. That may, but more than likely won't, change the context of the conversation. I guess OustedFairlady was right when he said I was referring to wheel hop, but I still hold on to the idea that fast drag cars don't squat and may even lift up a little in the rear.

Any pictures of those vents on the parts car?

Well, I just winged it and went with gut pretty much. I ordered the Classic Autosound head unit, a pair of 6.5" Pioneers from Walmart and mounted them in the stock locations. I am very happy with the results, it looks good and sounds good. Quite a bit louder than I need even.

I know for me I end up putting a few BIG photos up but it's because they're old photos saved on my computer that I never resized previously so when I posted them up they were gigantic. What I've started doing is just right clicking on the big photos here and selecting View Image so it would be sized automatically to the screen size and if I want to see more details on something I can just click it to make it gigantic again and scroll around to the area I want to see better.

Pretty good, I never had the stock carbs running on the car so I can't compare it to stock. It would be a lot better if I can get my hands on a header and exhaust because it has a use exhaust leaks caused by the EGR tube as well as a broken stud in the flange.