AkumaNoZeta

The paint on the spoiler is all chipped, scratched, and was just done like sh** by the previous owner. I want to sell it but I can't bring myself to sell something in bad shape so I want to sand it down and prime it first.

After I got it running and driving: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Took off the 3-piece spoiler and put a rising sun on the hood (I don't care, I like it.) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Bought this air cleaner today for it, I like it a lot better than the chrome circle job. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I kind of like it. Just needs different side mirrors and different interior.

Does anyone know what it would take to have the Mini system work with my stock later model controls? It did have AC from the factory but that's been long since removed, before I even got the car.

Is Berkeley101 going to continue this thread?

I got the same ones on my car, except the previous owner painted the inside of the spokes blue. I really like how they look too, I would like to have them in 15X8s but I can't afford to do something custom like that.

Correction. Just read the customer reviews and it doesn't sound good.

I think it would work good. Seems small so you can fit it in tight areas.

Do you even really need one? I completely removed mine, all the way to the switch. I have a habit of cleaning my windows at the gas station when I fill up so my windows never stay dirty.

I was looking at cup holder options before I started driving it and realized that the ashtray is the best cupholder I've ever had in a car. I just stick cans inside the ashtray because it squeezes the can inside it so it won't come out easily. Then if I have a bottled drink I remove the ashtray and put the bottle in the hold and shut the door on it for extra security.

I'll have to go buy an exhaust clamp now, that's a good idea. My friend might have one or two so I'll go check with him Thursday. I have it jerry-rigged with a steel coat hanger right now, held up good all day so far. I think since I spent $75 on that other tank and spent all that time making the fuel sender work perfectly that I think I'll just take out my current tank and fix it, but I'm going to stop working on it for now and just maintain and keep driving it until I can sell the Mustang to get a bike because there's a lot of things that needs to be done...or more precisely I just sick of driving a beat-up car and want it brand new again.

My gas tank has a little hole so a while ago I bought what I thought was a 240Z gas tank of eBay for $35. I spent weeks stripping all the original paint of and repainting it along with spending a lot of time completely dismantling and rebuilding the fuel sender. I jacked up my car today to remove the old tank and as soon as I got under there I found out something that floored me, I spent all that time on a 280Z gas tank. So I figured I might as well switch out my rebuilt sender for the broken one out of the tank anyways so I can have a fuel gauge. I broke the J-bolt for the strap in front of the sender so the car's undrivable now because I don't want a gas tank falling out on the highway. Then I spent two hours trying to get the old sender out and just ended up flattening or cutting off any edge that could help me spin because it was rusted together so much. So now I'm waiting on my sister to get here so I can go to the store and see if they have a new J-bolt so I can strap it back on and continue driving the car for a while. Next weekend I'm going to see if my brother's friend will buy my old Mustang for $1500 and then I'm taking that to my friend's friend and possibly buying a late 70's Kawasaki KZ1000 for $1000 and drive that everyday while I use my profit sharing and tax returns together to buy a good MIG welder and completely dismantling the car and rebuild it from the ground up. I'm sick of having to deal with all the problems one by one, I want to just get every problem out of the way in one big shot, like I did with the wiring.

Yep, if I could afford an OS Giken head then I wouldn't even think about getting rid of my L28, but I find it just as good to buy the cheap 3.0 Litre inline six with DOHC and make it look like the older engines.

My driver side door doesn't to anything. It won't lock with the key or by pushing down on the push/pull tab. I've removed the rod from the lock cylinder to eliminate the cylinder as the problem and I can't even push it down by hand. The only way I was able to get my door to lock was sticking my hand back there and pushing the thing back there towards the striker (or whatever it's called), from there I found that it unlocks just fine with the key and push/pull tab. Any ideas for me?

I'll PM you about the carbs. The Mustang I had was a 1990 LX with the normal 302. Judging from RPM at 60mph in 5th gear and tire diameter, we suspect that it has 4.11 gear in it. The engine is stock but we removed every accessory off of it, people tell me that it has a set of pulleys on it but I've never seen a 302 without pullies so I can't tell. There's been some gearheads tell me that they believe the engine was bored to a 306 because they can't believe that a stock 302 runs that good, and there's evidence that the engine was either rehauled or replaced sometime in the past. I've gone through tons of ideas for engine swaps, as evident if you've been watching my posts over the years, but I finally got myself dead-set on getting a non-VVTi 2JZ-GE and running it N/A with triple Webers while also leaving room for the idea of pushing some boost through the Webers in the future. I doubt I'd go turbo because I'm obsessed with my idea of having a cover made for the cam-covers to simulate the look of an OS Giken valve cover with touches of a S20 valve cover (they're pretty similar anyways) and making a air cleaner box that looks like a factory Z432 one.

I was thinking that the 280ZX distributor and thinner head gasket would make more of a difference than the Holley, I don't see why you guys keep on focusing on that. I wish I could have SUs, but 30 Ounce was correct that the ones I had were square-tops and I found that switching to the Holley would be easier as in first learning how to mess with carbs. If I came across a set of round-tops with manifolds and factory air cleaner I would put them on just for the fact that my car won't look like it has a Jeep engine anymore, but I'm not looking for them because like I said, I'm planning to swap out engines in the future. Right now I'm focusing on the chassis and other little things. I think what I was really trying so say is that the car seems pretty quick for being a old sports car. When I got it I thought it would be quite a bit slower than my Mustang but now I think that it's actually faster and that suprises me. Hopefully the friend I gave the Mustang to will fix it so I can see how it does compared to it running side-by-side.

I'm not planning on keeping the L28 but it is a great runner, like I said I'm just wondering if all the stuff I added keeps the car "feeling" the same as it would stock or if the change in parts increases it. I've never got to ride in a stock S30 so I don't know how they perform and therefore I don't know if the parts keep close to stock performance or if it improves it, I doubt it lowers it. And to answer "The question is what do you want from your car that is not providing you at this time?" I love the car and I love how it just keeps on getting better and better so I think in more of the terms of what I can provide her with. I'm sure the SUs are good carbs, but when I got the car they were bad so I figured since it's my first carbed car I would be better off learning from the easier Holley than rebuilding the SUs and trying to learn from those. Of course though, I want Webers now.

I don't really care about numbers. I don't even really trust numbers and dynos aren't consistent in there readings so I would only use one as a tuning aid. I just wanted to know if even with all those parts that it will drive a LOT better than all stock or if it wouldn't even be an noticable change. I really wish I could have drove it before so I can have a before and after comparison, and then be able to judge if making my L28 look like a Jeep engine was worth it or not.

My 260Z came with an L28 with the N42 head already in it. It had bad SUs on it so I put the Arizona Z Car manifold with a Holley 390 on it. Then the ignition wasn't firing so I converted it to use the E12-80 distributor. After I had it running for a while I found that it had a bad headgasket so I bought the Fel-Pro complete gasket set and went ahead and did every gasket, I've heard that the Fel-Pro is thinner than OEM so that's why I mention that. Still running the stock exhaust system from manifold to dual mufflers. Since it never ran with the stock components I have nothing to judge it against so I was wondering if anyone had any idea how much better it should perform from a stock engine. When people ask me how much power it has I usually say "I'm probably lucky if I have 120hp."

Yep, I have a early 260Z and I was talking with a friend of mine earlier and he gave me the idea that since I'm putting in new custom frames and floors then I can make a pocket in the floor under the seat to extend the floor to the bottom of the pinch weld for speakers and try to design (and hope it works) a speaker box to fit in the pocket that will direct sound out of the front seat bracket.

Does anybody have any ideas? I really prefer the speakers to be completely out of sight, I think I'd be just happy with coaxials, it's not like my hearing is that good anyways.

What about component speakers vs. coaxial? Seems like most people like the component ones better. I have no idea for speaker locations yet. I really want to have them under the seat but I have a feeling that if they're there then they would become more annoying than enjoyable. Maybe 4" speakers with tweeters in the area between behind the door and in front of the wheel well? Yep, I like the Classic Autosound unit because it has the classic look and I'll be playing music from my flashdrive most of the time but would like to have the CD player option with that model in case a passenger has a CD with them that they'd like to listen to. I too have other issues to fix first, but I've got my plans set and started for them so I'm starting to think about what I want next. As soon as tax returns get here, I'm combining that with my profit sharing check from work and buying myself a good MIG so I can replace the framerails under the floor and put in new floors.

I just want a little something for taking some of the tedium out of long road trips. I've never been interested in sound systems before but I haven't had a car with a radio in it since 2008 and I'm starting to miss being able to have some music to make time fly-by quicker when I go way out of town. Why is it unsafe? Just curious.

I want to get the Classic Autosound USA 4-DIN radio and it's a 4X40 Watt receiver. I'm not looking for big sound, just something decent so I'm wondering if it's safe to splice the wires to kind of make it into a 2X80 and just have two 75RMS 2-way speakers in the kickers or something. Opinions?

Thank you. I'm currently looking for a 2JZ-GE to buy when tax returns come in because I'm going to combine that with my profit sharing check and my last couple checks are pretty fat because of holiday and vacation pay. I'm hoping to be able to get a start soon. I'm still contemplating whether I should buy the engine with all that money or buy myself a really good MIG so I can finally do my frames and floors. It all comes down to what the final amount I get comes to. A few months ago I was finding 2JZs all over the place for $500-$600 and now when I look around I can only find a few here and there and they're out of state and local pick-ups only, so if I can't find a good engine then the decision becomes easy. Thank you everybody for the great input, now I can delete a lot of the products I have bookmarked on my browser because of the confidence you guys gave me that the Megasquirt will do everything I want.