batou

unhook both sides of the line and hit it with a high pressure blast from your air compressor a couple times till no more crap comes out. You can try putting a sock or something over the end to catch any solid crap that may come shooting out.

ICE ICE BABY lol sweet, electrical hazard maybe??

for a full body tank why not use some 3/4 inch plywood, 2x4's, 4x4s, lots of silicone sealant, paint and maybe some undercoat just to seal everything up? Edit: hell just use fiberglass to seal up the interior of it. probably only cost maybe 200$ in supplies.

have you bled the system? could have a bad clutch master, slave, or even fork, throwout bearing, clutch plate. Start with the easy stuff.

I still wanna see the WOT vid!

here yah go

If you are in a rush and have the funds and dont mind if the paint isnt perfect- go maaco If you really like to DIY and want to get things "just your way" then take the time and do it yourself.

or if you are a little bit more honest Pick up a furniture dolly from harbor freight for about 20$ and stick that under the car in the back.

I would think the master cylinder would build a decent amount of pressure to the pedal, giving it a good bit of feel when you press it down, but that spring would add a good bit of resistance too, I would check both. Spring is easy to check, master cylinder is harder. I always check the easy things first Also I ReRead your initial post, did not catch that you put in rear disks. I have read on this forum that depending on which calipers you use you might want to swap over to a 15/16ths master cylinder to regain pedal feel due to the increase in required fluid to actuate them. You can pull that from the 1979-1981 ZX's I believe (the ones with the dual reservoirs). It is pretty much a bolt on part, just need to adjust the brake lines and I think also (cant remember the name of the part) the threaded rod that goes between the master and booster(or pedal and booster) I would look at the brake sticky to be sure. Also It very well could be a bleeding issue. If it were me I would check for the spring and if its there switch over to the 15/16ths master cylinder(if necessary) and then bleed the crap out of it. The master cylinder would probably be an easy junk yard find, but I would buy the rebuild kit (about 8-10$ at your auto store) You very well could use a rebuild on your current master cylinder if you keep it being that you have the white oxidation and whatnot inside of it. I'm gonna add I'm no professional with Z's as most of my Z knowledge is from browsing this forum. I haven't been able to work on my Z in a while. Maybe one of the more experienced could chime in? I would love to have somebody say I'm right (or wrong, I like learning new things but I would hate to find out I am wrong after you go and follow my advice.) Lol man I just wrote a nice long one huh? try not to fall asleep readin all of it.

I don't mean the spring in the booster, on my 76 280z I have a spring that goes from the pedal to a mount on the pedal box. It adds a good bit of resistance to the brake pedal. IE if you pull your booster out (which by your prev. post you have) and the pedal can just swing back and forth, you are definitely missing that spring, or it just fell off, or they didn't add it in 78 (which would be odd).

Jato?

probably not the problem, but is that spring that holds the pedal back in good shape and not wore out?

I believe the holes behind the seats are for a bolt in harness bar, dunno about the ones up top.

The rubber bushings on my 76 also have those v notches cut out of em.

Lol I've been looking for that. Thats the Z that got me interested in these car to begin with! Thanks!

I like that first one, the only thing I am worried about is would it support the weight of the suspension and whatnot? Would I have to strip it down to just the body to be safe?

I cannot believe that noone has said the Obvious answer the question. BOTH

http://www.pepboys.com have you looked yourself yet?

Wouldn't one of those magnets that wrap around your oil filter work out a little better? That way all metal gets trashed when you change your filter.